Day Guide to Magome Juku in the Kiso Valley
alk the path of wandering traders, warlords, samurai, and geisha and journey between the old capitals of Ancient Japan.
Although much of the ancient roads that connect the old capital of Kyoto to the new capital of Edo (modern-day Tokyo) have been buried or long forgotten to the winds of time, there are parts of these ancient routes still untouched for the modern traveler of today.
Magome Juku in the Kiso Valley area of Gifu Prefecture is a well-preserved little town and arguably the most scenic. It is the forty-third post town of sixty-nine towns used by weary travelers to rest, find entertainment, and gather supplies while making the long journey through the Nakasendo trail. To this day, these historic post towns still evoke memories of the Edo period.
Sounds like a fascinating place to get a taste of old Japan, right?
Take a look back at this interesting time in Japan’s feudal history as we share the local gems this rural village has to offer.
HISTORY OF THE NAKASENDO TRAIL
From the early 1600s, the Nakasendo trail was an important trade route and one of the five routes of the Edo period to connect the ancient areas of “Kinai” (modern-day Kansai region) and the northern parts of the main island called “Tosando”.
Only two trail routes connected Kyoto to Edo-period Tokyo; the Tokaido trail and the Nakasendo trail. While the Tokaido route follows the eastern coastline to travel between the two cities, the Nakasendo cuts through the inland mountain ranges and was the preferred route for many as it was well-developed and avoided rivers making travel easier.
Today most of the old trade routes are now replaced by modern highways, but the Nakasendo trail and its traditional post towns remain largely preserved as they were in the Edo Era. This creates a unique way to experience life in pre-modern Japan.
In a historical novel by the author Shimazaki Toson, he describes the old Nakasendo during its hay day recounting, “The entire Kisoji (trade route) is in the mountains. Some are cliff-roads, some are cliffs of the Kiso River, which reach dozens of depths, and some are entrances to the valley around the tail of the mountain. A straight road runs through this deep forest area.” Even to this day, you can still see the Nakasendo he wrote about in the flesh!
With its picturesque cobblestone trail leading up the steep slope through the townscape, Magome Juku holds a special place in the heart of tourists as the preferred starting point for this historic journey.
WHAT TO SEE
s a point of interest, there are many tourist spots in Magome Juku that are dedicated or related to the famous author, Shimazaki Toson, including the Shimizu-ya Museum, the Eishoji Temple and the Toson Memorial Museum.
Born in 1872, the town is in fact, the birthplace of the late novelist who wrote about the effects of the Meiji Restoration in the Kiso Valley in his famous novel, “Before the Dawn.” With Magome Juku still being relatively off-the-grid, English signage around the town is minimal. As a result, its historical significance is not the sole reason people come here from far and wide.
For many, and certainly for us, it was the views of the beautiful old fashioned
waterwheels and idyllic wooden architecture signature to Magome Juku, that enticed us to experience the old-world atmosphere of this charming picturesque town for ourselves.
Although many original structures were destroyed by fires in Magome Juku, the traditional lattice-facade houses that surround both sides of the main pathway were restored in the 1970s when the city officially closed the path to traffic. Thay also removed visible signs of modern times such as electricity lines to retain the nostalgic feeling of pre-modern Japan. Most of the houses are now converted into modern eateries, lodging inns, or souvenir shops for visitors, however they still create a good impression of the hustle and bustle of life centuries past. With the surrounding nature changing seasonally, plenty of photo opportunities are abound!
Shimizu-ya Museum
Masugata Waterwheel
ight as you make your way up the pathway towards the main part of town, you’ll be greeted by the first signature sight of Magome Juku called the “Masugata Waterwheel.”
What makes this waterwheel important?
First of all, a masugata is a defensive wall structure carved into the landscape consisting of a double, right-angle turn. It acts as a stone fence-like paling to give
defenders an advantage from incoming intruders and was a common feature of castle towns and post towns along the Nakasendo trail. Today, the masugata leaves a striking impression as you view the giant waterwheel from the front.
The giant waterwheel has become an iconic symbol of the town and was originally an old rice flour mill but today produces hydro-electricity for the town. There are a number of miniature waterwheels that decorate the townscape to discover as well.
The waterwheel on the left and the masugata on the right
Inside the waiting room near the Matsugata Waterwheel
You can get a special Magome Juku stamp at the Magome Tourist Information Center
Magome Waki-honjin Museum
“waki-honjin” is a style of inn during the Edo period reserved for government officials, noble families, and high standing samurais. Today, these inns are preserved as open museums displaying large collections of historical artifacts from 200-year-old documents to Edo period garments designed for Emperor Meiji himself when he ventured along the historic trail in its prime.
The Magome Waki-honjin Museum has a nice display of Edo Period documents, clothes, paintings, and furniture where you can learn about the history and culture of the time. It also gives a good impression of how different life was for a high-
ranking official compared to the common man.
If you have time to spare and plan to head towards the next post town Tsumago Juku, we recommend checking out their waki-honjin museum too.
Compared to the Magome Waki-Honjin Museum, the Wakihonjin Okuya in Tsumago is definitely the most aesthetically impressive of the two, due to the magical way the afternoon light spills through the shutters above the living area’s irori (Japanese hearth). If you want to capture the best lighting for photos, it is best to visit between September and March on sunny days.
Inside Magome Waki-honjin Museum | Photo Credit: The Association for Japanese History and Travel
Inside Tsumago Wakihonjin Okuya
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The Kosatsuba and Observatory
s you make your way further up the hill you will find a replica of the “kosatsuba” notice board that outlines the law for visitors during the ruling “Tokugawa Shogunate” feudal system of the time. Among the interesting rules posted were prohibitions against Christianity, rewards for incarcerating practicing Christians, and a death penalty for persons
caught cutting down any of the area’s cypress trees!
The final stop at the top of the hill is the observatory lookout point where you can get a great panoramic view of the town below and see Mount Ena and the Mino Valley in the distance.
Kosatsuba in Magome Juku | Photo Credit: AJ Travel Bureau Tours
Details of the rules written on a kosatsuba | Photo Credit: St Pauls Young Liberal
WHAT TO EAT
Chestnuts
hile walking past the many shops on your way to the top of Magome Juku, you’ll encounter the scent of deliciously roasted chestnuts wafting from the food shop windows. It’s super hard to resist!
In fact, one of the must-try dishes of Magome Juku is made with chestnuts called “Kuri Kowameshi.” It’s roasted chestnuts and glutinous rice cooked and served in a
hot stove.
Another chestnut treat to try is a dessert called “kuri-kinton” which is a specialty of the Gifu Prefecture. It’s a small cookie dough-like sweet that is made from boiled, mashed chestnuts. If you do want to savour these local specialties for yourself it is best to visit during the autumn time when chestnuts are in season.
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Where to eat Kuri Kowameshi: 恩多屋
he 恩多屋 is a small eatery opposite the Shimizu-ya Museum that specializes in serving chestnut fed pork dishes and Kuri Kowameshi set meals.
Inside the cafe has free wifi and charging dock stations at every table for your phone. At the front, they also have traditional street food that you can order to-go.
Soba
eeing as soba is the famous local dish of the nearby Nagano Prefecture and the tradition of eating soba was popularised during the Edo Period, Magome Juku naturally has many soba restaurants where you can feast on the well known Japanese dish.
If you are looking for interesting toppings to go with your soba, try the mountain vegetables (山菜そば) or if you want a challenge try the slightly slimy but delicious grated mountain yam (山かけそば) for a more authentic rustic meal.
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Oyaki
hese stuffed dumplings originating from Nagano Prefecture are made with seasonal vegetables, sweet bean, or pickle fillings and grilled so the dough is nice and chewy
upon consuming. The local “kozawana” pickle filled oyaki is a must-try if you enjoy salty-tangy flavours.
WHERE TO EAT OYAKI: 道中おやき
f you want to try all the different flavours of oyaki, head to 道中おやき where they sell both salty and sweet types of oyaki fillings as well as juicy homemade meat buns (nikuman) too.
The top sellers are the “kozawana” pickle, Japanese mugwort (yomogi) with red
bean and pumpkin oyaki kind.
You can order to-go, sit inside the shop and enjoy the tea and pickle service or sit outside on the bench and enjoy the atmosphere of the old town while you enjoy eating.
Mochi and Dango
ne of the most iconic street foods of Japan, mochi and dango are small sticky rice balls eaten as a snack or dessert commonly served at small gatherings over tea.
Although both are smooth in texture, look very similar, and taste very simple, there is a key difference in how they are made. Mochi is made from pounded glutinous rice and served by itself, while dango is made from rice flour served on a stick and coated in a sauce.
Although Magome Juku is in the Gifu Prefecture, their style of mochi follows the style from Nagano. The texture is grainier and the mochi is served as 3 spheres stacked on top one another on a skewer.
A signature local dish of the area and specialty to the region is “Goheimochi” which is served with a walnut miso paste.
Nagano style Goheimochi found in Magome Juku
Gifu style Goheimochi
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WHERE TO EAT DANGO: 四方木屋
hough originally a 100-year-old corridor making business, the interior of 四方木屋 has been transformed into a classic Japanese style cafe where customers can enjoy the traditional taste of Japanese treats while chatting over some tea.
As many shops along the Nakasendo trail served as a casual rest stop for travellers, we felt just like the old wandering traders who would have stopped to rest their tired
feet at a roadside teahouse just like this one.
The cafe does well to keep the Edo-aesthetic inside by offering both modern table seating and traditional floor seating options so people can enjoy casually resting and chatting just like many would have done in the old days. Sitting on the tatami floor filled with cozy antique furniture and wooden cutout lanterns inspired our imaginings of times gone by!
Zenzai with Shiratama Dango
Matcha Cappuccino
Table Seating Area
Tatami Seating Area
WHAT TO DO
SUMMER: Magome Juku Somen Night Festival
ave you heard of nagashi somen before?
An entertaining way to eat this classic summer food, nagashi somen is the fun of catching icy cold flowing somen noodles that run though a hollowed-out bamboo flume before it gets carried away.
During August at night time, Magome Juku sets up an impressive 100-meter long bamboo slide where people can dine and slurp on these refreshing noodles.
Best of all, participation is free!
SUMMER AND AUTUMN: Magome-za Kabuki Show
xperience a Kabuki show within the traditional setting of old Magome Juku.
Organised by the Ji-Kabuki Preservation Society this special performance includes highlights from popular Kabuki shows. The actors will also
teach you how to participate in traditional Kabuki viewing practices such as Ohineri (throwing tips on the stage) and Omukou (audience call). Participants also get to take a commemorative photo with the Kabuki actors and on certain days, a Kabuki “kumadori” makeup workshop is held where you can transform into a Kabuki actor yourself!
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AUTUMN: Wedding Procession of Princess Kazunomiya
t the end of the Edo period, in the first year of the Bunkyu period, Emperor Takaaki’s younger sister, Kazumiya, from Kyoto’s Imperial Court was married to the Shogunate of Edo-Tokyo, Tokugawa Iemori.
In the autumn of 1945, the Princess traveled along the Nakasendo trail from Kyoto to Edo-Tokyo to be wed and the journey was celebrated as the biggest event in the
history of Nakasendo.
Today, many post towns along the Nakasendo recreate Princess Kazumiya’s epic wedding procession with local residents playing the roles of Princess Kazumiya and her entourage.
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AUTUMN: Pathway and Shimada Park Light Up Show
njoy a romantic walk during the evenings of mid to late November as shop lanterns are set up through the Magome Juku main street. As twilight hits, the lanterns are lit up creating a nostalgic atmosphere.
At the same time, Shimada Park just off from the main area has an illumination show to highlight the season’s autumn leaves at night.
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WINTER: Kisoji Ice and Snow Festival
hen the temperature drops in the Kiso Valley, just like a scene from a movie set the Nakasendo trail is lit up with the soft light of “ice candles” connecting the post towns.
As an extra sweet incentive for bearing the freezing cold, the Furusato no Ie inn
(found 80m above the Fujimura Memorial Hall) serves handmade warm pork soup and amazake during the festivities, made by the local ladies. For photo enthusiasts, the Kiso Tourism Federation also runs a photo contest during the festival.
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Hiking the Nakasendo trail from Magome Juku
eyond Magome Juku, many seek to complete their Edo style experience with a hike just like the old days and trek towards other post towns along the original old Nakasendo route.
From Magome, the journey to the next post town, Tsumago Juku, is an easy 7.8-kilometer walk passing through a variety of scenic Japanese landscapes from dense bamboo forests to towering cypress tree groves. The journey takes around two to three hours to complete.
Tsumago Juku is considered generally more authentic and traditional feeling than Magome Juku as it was less prone to fires and the townspeople have gone to great lengths to preserve the original building and house structures from the period.
If you wish to continue past Tsumago Juku, the next town, Nagiso, is another 3.2 kilometers and is listed as “One of The Most Beautiful Villages in Japan.” Although Nagiso isn’t as well-known as Magome Juku or Tsumago Juku, it offers onsens and scenic sites such as the Kiso River flowing through the center of the town, Kiso Village’s hidden gem the Kakizore Keikoku Valley and the Tadachi-no-taki waterfall. Nagiso is also the home for a special type of kabuki performance called ‘Tadachi Kabuki’ which has a distinct ancient style different from the popularized central school of Kabuki from Tokyo.
With plenty of English signage, well-maintained paths and various waterfalls, shrines, and waterwheels in the forest to keep you entertained, taking your time wandering the old Nakasendo road makes for a memorable trekking experience.
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An important note when following Google Maps to walk the old Nakasendo trail: Google will only give you directions using the main new route rather than the traditional road. However, if you look closely on the map you can see the old path to follow labeled “Old Nakasendo.” Alternatively, you can ask the staff for a Nakasendo walking map at the Magome Tourist Information Center.
WHERE TO STAY
f you are looking for an affordable and stylish stay, we stayed at the Guest House Gaku Magome.
Although this accommodation is dormitory-style, we were pleasantly surprised by how chic the place was. The guest house is part of the Magomefurusato School and offers a unique housing experience with the interior being a mixture of a
typical Japanese school and a modern wooden cabin in the woods.
Every person got their own stylish wooden bedding cubicle which was surprisingly very private and comfortable. With your stay, the guest house also provides free breakfast, and best of all, Magome Juku is just a 7-minute walk away!
How to get there
Entrance to Magome Juku
ARRIVING BY TRAIN AND BUS
Whether you are coming from Tokyo Station or Kyoto Station, the most convenient way to get to Magome Juku is to head to Nagoya city and transfer from there.
Using the train at JR Nagoya Station in Nagoya City, you can either hop on the Shinano Express or take the Rapid train service on the JR Chuo Main Line to JR Nakatsugawa Station.
From Nakatsugawa Station, you will need to take the Magome Line Bus and get off at the stop “Magome” to arrive at Magome Juku. The total travel time to Magome Juku from Nagoya City takes a little over 2 hours in total.
ARRIVING BY BUS ONLY
Alternatively, if you wish to skip the hassle of transferring at multiple stations and take a direct bus, you can take the “Nagoya Line” highway express bus at Meitetsu Bus Center in Nagoya City and go directly to Magome. The total journey will take less than 2 hours but unfortunately, the highway bus website to reserve tickets is mostly in Japanese.
ARRIVING BY CAR
We took a rental car to Magome Juku and found the best parking was near the Magomekan Honkan souvenir store which offers free all-day parking. It is best to arrive early as parking spaces are limited and quickly filled.
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