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Greatly Terrific Food Outing: Sumikyu Restaurant – The Hidden Thimble
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  • Setting and Atmosphere
  • Food
  • Service
  • Value for Money
4.2

Overall Summary

The best of Takayama’s local soba!

Eating soba noodles remains a staple favourite in rural Japan, and the Takayama area grows some high-quality buckwheat making it the perfect place for some tasty soba noodles! 

Searching for some local grub, we stumbled upon by coincidence Sumikyu (or Nadai Teuchisoba Sumikyu), a local soba restaurant that was selected in the 2019 Michelin’s Recommended Restaurants for the Aichi, Gifu, and Mie regions.  

Founded in 1933, Sumikyu is homegrown in Takayama and has been owned by the same family for four generations. Specializing in handmade soba using only Hida locally sourced ingredients, see what makes this humble soba establishment so popular with locals and tourists alike.

SETTING AND ATMOSPHERE

H

aving such a long history in the town, it would seem only natural that Sumikyu would be located in the town’s iconic Furui-machi-nami –  the old traditional area of Takayama. 

From the outside, Sumikyu blends seamlessly into the surrounding maze of traditional wooden storefronts. To distinguish from the rest, a beautifully arabesque painted bike stands proudly at the front of the store. Hand-painted by the owner, it’s incredibly eye-catching and appears to be the trademark of Sumikyu.

Inside, Sumikyu’s interior feels like time hasn’t passed since the Showa period. Mainly decorated with wooden furnishings (no doubt a nod to Takayama’s craft-making history) and a number of horse paintings, the features give character to this local eatery.

The dining area is divided into two areas; one with tables and counter seating for people looking for a quick casual meal while the other is the tatami style area for those in small groups. Though we were only a party of two, Talyssa and I were able to snag the tatami style table which made our experience feel all the more traditional. 

They also have a small section where you can buy their soba noodles, soba tea, and soba dipping sauce to recreate your own at home. 

Overall, Sumikyu makes you feel like you found something special. A hidden gem that the locals would frequent and the true foodies would seek.

FOOD

S

umikyu is a certified store using solely Gifu Prefecture made products. The soba is made from scratch and Sumikyu also goes the extra mile by grinding their own soba flour by hand, using traditional stone tools to make their soba noodles. 

Another thing you’ll notice about Sumikyu is their attention to food presentation. Their bowls of noodles are all beautifully presented with generous toppings that it feels more upscale than just your average dine-in. 

Although there are many options of soba dishes on offer, there are two dishes that stand-out and are recommended to try in most reviews and magazine clippings of the restaurant: the Sansai Zaru Soba and the Amago Soba.

The Sansai Zaru Soba dish was like nature on a plate. The cold soba noodles were served on a fresh hoba leaf with a dipping sauce on the side and topped with Takayama’s famous mountain vegetables and a raw quail egg. It’s a great dish for health-conscious minds with a clean simple flavour focusing on the freshness of the ingredients. However, it may not be a dish for everyone.

While Japanese dishes in the West are typically the crowd favourites like teriyaki chicken, tempura and ramen, the slimy texture of the grated mountain yam (tororo) mixed with the raw quail egg yolk is a style of Japanese cuisine unfamiliar with many tourists and could be off putting for those who don’t like the idea of slimy slippery noodles. Talyssa found the texture unpleasant but if you’re like me and enjoy similar slimy foods like okra, you might find it more enjoyable.  

Alternatively, the other most famous dish, the Amago Soba, will make your mouth water! The Amago Soba is a warm soba dish topped with a deliciously marinated trout and served in a sweet-salty warm mushroom broth. This dish was one of our favourites and was super tasty!

Towards the end of the meal, the staff will give you some sobayu in a teapot. Sobayu is a white creamy broth made from the boiled water of the soba noodles and mixed with the remaining dipping sauce to drink at the end of your meal. Be sure to hang around after you finished eating to complete your soba dining experience with some sobayu.

Sansai Zaru Soba (Mountain Vegetable Soba) ¥1250

Amago Soba ¥1250

SERVICE

D

espite the lunch rush, the service at Sumikyu was prompt and efficient. We were able to get a table upon arrival and the atmosphere was very cosy. 

Unfortunately, the menu is entirely in Japanese but the most popular dishes have pictures next to them which makes ordering a breeze. 

According to some reviewers over at Tripadvisor, the staff do speak good English but we weren’t able to confirm this since we communicated to the staff in Japanese during our visit.

VALUE FOR MONEY

C

onsidering everything was handmade from scratch, it is a little surprising how inexpensive dining at Sumikyu was!

The most expensive dish was only around ¥1850 which included seafood and most dishes were roughly the same amount as other soba restaurants at roughly ¥1100 on average.

Whether you choose to dine for lunch or dinner, Sumikyu offers great humble food at a very reasonable price.

The Details

Location

Nadai Teuchisoba Sumikyu – Takayama

45 Uramachi, Takayama, Gifu 506-0013

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