Drool-worthy dumplings? Yes please! Be transported to the colourful streets of Shanghai and while you’re there, let your tastebuds dance on ancient flavours for the ultimate Shanghainese experience.
Setting and Atmosphere
★★★★.5
Stepping inside New Shanghai is like stepping onto the streets of Old Shanghai and exploring the otherworldy charm of a back alley tucked away behind the bustling city streets. The setting is gorgeous and really a pleasure to dine in. It’s vibrant, it’s alive and it’s unique and while you’re there, experience first hand the art of traditional Shanghainese cuisine with a live dumpling-making theatre or simply enjoy the ambiance of such a beautiful setting with great company.
Food
★★★★.5
New Shanghai Pan Fried Pork Buns | $11.8Pan fried pork bun – 8pcs $11.8 | Shallot, smoked ham and sesame puff – 6pcs $4.8 | Pork and Chive Dumplings Steve – 10pcs $10.8Pan fried pork bun – 8pcs $11.8 | Shallot, smoked ham and sesame puff – 6pcs $4.8 | Pork and Chive Dumplings Steamed – 10pcs $10.8Shallot, smoked ham and sesame puff – 6pcs $14.8Pork and Chive Dumplings Steamed – 10pcs $10.8Yangzhou Fried Rice | $10.8Rainbow Beef – Sweet and Sour Crispy Beef | $19.5Braised Beef Noodle SoupWok Fried King Prawns with Salted Egg Yolk | $27.5Peking Beef Stir Fry and Served with Steamed Buns | $26.5Peking Beef Stir Fry and Served with Steamed Buns | $26.5
While the setting says “Old Shanghai” the food says “New Shanghai” as the restaurant puts their own modern take on traditional recipes passed down through the generations. And with good reason too – the food here is Měiwèi!! Everything tastes good and trust me when I say that once you’ve been dining here, you’ll be speaking Chinese too. As an avid fan of dumplings the ones here are up there with some of my faves. The pan fried dumplings are crispy on the outside with moist meat on the inside. The steamed dumplings are juicy and tender and finally the sesame puff’s pastry is flaky, crispy and melt-in-mouth perfection.
Though I have to say the highlights of the night for me were the Rainbow Beef with it’s gorgeous outer crunch and perfect chewy texture as well as the Braised Beef soup with it’s light and subtle flavours – a perfect contrast to wash down with the heavier dishes.
Service
★★★★.5
Wonderful prompt service and super friendly staff. Why then not a 5 star? Sometimes the service was a little too attentive that it felt a little rushed.
Pricing and Value for Money
★★★★
Really great prices, especially considering the quality and portion sizes of the dishes.
t seems that everywhere in South Korea is famous for something.
If you love Korean bibimbap (a kind of fried rice with mixed toppings) Jeonju is the place to be!
It’s so famous that even when you tell a local Korean you’ve been to Jeonju, the first thing they do is: one, be surprised that you’ve actually gone to Jeonju and two, ask if you ate Jeonju Bibimbap.
But there’s more to share about Jeonju than just some good eating. Here we’ll explore all there is to eat, see and do in this culinary rich town – all in 48 hours!
Where to Eat The best Jeonju Bibimbap
efinitely a recommended eating spot for Jeonju Bibimbap is at a place called Gajok Hwegwan (가족 회관), one of the first bibimbap restaurants to open!
As advertised on their giant billboard sign, just looking at their house bibimbap was a feast for the eyes!
It not only looked amazing garnished generously and prepared with a rainbow of
toppings, but you can really taste the freshness of the vegetables used in each bite.
For us, however, the real surprise came with the gorgeously prepared spread of banchan (side dishes) that accompanied the meal. It came in waves, one after another, until it filled the entire table with the smell of good home cooking. Needless to say, we were very satisfied hungry travelers and at around $12 per person, it was well worth seeking this place out!
What to see and do in Jeonju
eonju is still a modern small town, but as a town built on such a rich history, it’s worth checking out the more historical sights around town.
The good thing is because of its small size, all the touristy things are a hop, skip and a jump from each other – very convenient.
1. START AT JEONDONG CATHOLIC CHURCH
eonju has a bit of a dark religious history of Catholic and Confusion beliefs. The Jeondong Catholic Church was constructed in tribute to Roman Catholic martyrs during the Joseon Dynasty.
If you are keen to learn more about it you can also visit the Confucian school as well as Martyr Mountain where they began burying the martyrs on the site, but I just enjoyed quietly admiring the church’s stained glass windows and architecture.
2. The Royals at Gyeonggijeon Shrine
f you enjoy history the Gyeonggijeon Shrine acts as a historical exhibition about King Tae-jo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, and is also a museum about the royal life during the era.
Although it was a little scarce of people due to the winter season, the site was very
pleasant to just wander around as it has a few nature paths amongst the trees and through the bamboo grove. Make sure you take some time to admire the traditional shrine architecture and paintings!
3. Jeonju Hanok Village
uite possibly its most famous attraction, Jeonju’s Hanok Village is located near the heart of the city. It’s pretty huge with around 800 traditional hanok style buildings and despite the fact it began to rain a bit, it was very peaceful to just walk through the cobblestone streets, looking at the houses.
Although Hanok style houses are generally private guesthouses, some are open to public access where you can play traditional games such as ring toss or experience a
small slice of the past in the inner courtyard.
Within the village, you can find many activity centres like traditional tea houses, museums, restaurants, and general shops all with unique exteriors. The highlights for us were learning the process of making Soju at the Wine Museum, seeing the amazement of paper at the Jeonju Traditional Hanji Center, and looking at cure oddities in The Oriental Medicine Culture Center.
Two sets of games in a Hanok courtyard. And it ALWAYS involves precision hand-eye coordination! I suck at these games!
Me failing at the arrow toss game
Talyssa playing the ring toss game. These metal rings are really heavy!
The art of soju making at the Wine Museum.
Multicoloured jars of herb at The Oriental Medicine Culture Center
4. A VIEW FROM THE TOP AT OMOKDAE
great way to finish off exploring the Hanok Village is a walk to the Omokdae pavilion. It’s a small hike but definitely refreshing and the reward is a complete view of the Hanok Village and business district of Jeonju.
Omokdae is where Lee Seong-gye and his men celebrated winning against the Japanese invaders who dominated Mount Hwangsan in the Namwon Unbong area and marked the founding of the Joseon dynasty.
JEONJU’s Instaworthy cafes
lthough the Jeonju Hanok Village is established to showcase the best of traditional Korean life and culture, we weren’t expecting the good quality and stylish cafes also present in the area!
Some cafes are actually quite contemporary with large glass windows and concrete floors but somehow they just fit in with the rest of the scenery. If you happen to
come across these little gems definitely give them a visit and step out of the past for a little bit to enjoy a short coffee break in the present day.
The two that stood out for us was the European inspired Blue Pekoe and the art meets coffee space, THE ORCHARD.
Blue Pekoe
his cafe was definitely one of our favourites during our visit. It’s called Blue Pekoe and has a French Provincial theme inside and out!
It was incredibly charming to sit inside and enjoy the traditional view
outside. In addition, all their tea is served using real bone china tea sets like Wedgewood and Royal Alfred. The drinking experience was a real treat as these cups can cost $80 and up!
THE ORCHARD
HE ORCHARD cafe was another great cafe we discovered in town.
More modern in style, it was both an art space and a cafe all inside a minimalistic brick warehouse where you can stop and enjoy a break
as the owner’s Chow Chow walks around freely inside the cafe. Too adorable for words!
Getting to Jeonju
ARRIVING BY Train
From Seoul, take the train bound for Yongsan Station at City Hall Station. At Yongsan Station, you can take a train to Jeonju Station. The whole trip will take roughly 1 hour and 40 minutes.
ARRIVING BY BUS
From Seoul, you will need to take an express bus at the Central City Terminal. There are two options:
OPTION 1
Price: ₩16,000 – ₩17,000
Duration: 2HR 30MIN
The first express bus is called “센트럴-정안 고속버스(우등)” and will take you to Jeongan Service Area (To Suncheon) Express Bus Transfer Center.
At Jeongan Service Area (To Suncheon) Express Bus Transfer Center you will need to transfer to another express bus “정안-전주 고속버스(우등)” to Jeonju Express Bus Terminal.
OPTION 2
Price: around ₩26,100
Duration: 2HR 40MIN
This is the direct express bus called “센트럴-전주 고속버스(우등) ” and will head straight to Jeonju Express Bus Terminal.
ARRIVING BY Bus Shuttle
We were lucky enough to use the special Free Bus Shuttle promotion to travel to Jeonju during the Korea Grand Sale held every January. Check out the Korea Grand Sale website to see if there are any free shuttle bus tours available.
fter being unsuccessful in securing a traditional hanok for accommodation, we decided to stay at the Jeonju Tourist Hotel as it was conveniently located in the city area and easy to walk to the major tourist site seeing places.
If you want to experience sleeping the traditional way using an ondol (underfloor heating) they also have Korean-style guestrooms available but we opted for a western bedroom. The staff are super helpful and speak English as well should you have any questions.
The lowlights of our trip
lthough the sights that greeted us when walking through Jeonju’s picturesque Hanok Village were wonderful, there were also some unfortunate experiences during our trip:
At the time of our visit, The Hanok Village was newly built and still under construction with many shop doors still shut and not opened for business. This is something to consider.
Finding a person who can help guide you through the maze of buildings was very limited to just the souvenir stores. It’s very much a go-alone experience. The tourist centres were too far and not always opened.
The advertised cultural activities were disappointing because we weren’t able to do ANY of them! They either didn’t exist anymore or were not available on the particular day we visited, even though websites online claimed otherwise.
Even bigger places such as The Jeonju Korean Traditional Wine Museum didn’t have their advertised soju making program on the day we visited. No website reservations available only through the phone (Korean only – making things difficult!).
We initially wanted to stay in a traditional hanok inside the village however we found it really hard to make a booking. This is something you definitely want to plan quite a bit in advance. It was also extremely difficult as for booking anything in Jeonju, there were no website reservations available only through the phone (Korean only).
The handicraft workshop Kkotsugee Gongbang (숙이공방) where we heard you can make Korean paper dolls was no longer there and when we asked people where we could do Hanji making, the places they told us were Hanji souvenir shops that weren’t for classes.
The Korean Lunar New Year was coming up which limited our exploration as many places were closed days leading up to the holiday.
Jeonju might have changed since the last time we’ve been or maybe it was because of the winter season, but we think if you want to have a more touristy experience book through a travel agency to be safe.
Jeonju Travel Tips
A single day will suffice if you don’t plan on participating in any cultural activities (hanji making etc) or if they aren’t available.
Make sure you write everything in Korean or have the address in Korean. As Jeonju is not a major city like Seoul you will find that the locals (especially taxi drivers) will not understand English/ English written Korean Hangul. Maps in both English and Korean will help you navigate around.
If you think that Google Maps will help you find your way around South Korea as a non-speaker think again! It also uses full Korean Hangul so even though you type in your address in English Hangul, the street names will still be in full Hangul.
When you are ready to go back to Seoul there are two bus terminals in Jeonju and only one of them goes to Seoul. Make sure you tell the taxi driver you want to go to Seoul so you aren’t in the wrong place.
Talyssa checking in – beware people, this post is gonna be a long one!!
Becauuuuuuuuuuuuuuse it’s about Hongdae!! I. absolutely. love. Hongdae. It’s so refreshing to be in a Hipster-esque place style wise, fashion wise and people wise, minus the arrogant, overly pretentious, clique-ish, self-entitled hipster attitude that unfortunately accompanies much of the hipster crowd in Sydney. Seriously. Sooo nice and refreshing.
I really wish Sydney had a similar place to Hongdae so I could at least describe to some extent how awesome Hongdae is…I guess Newtown might be the closest, but seriously, it doesn’t even compare. Actually scrap that. Newtown is nothing like Hongdae. Period.
We set out on our first venture to Hongdae to visit the Trick Eye Museum. Online there was absolutely no information on the Trick Eye Museum – nothing about how to get there or where it was located…so basically we took a giant stab.
Our giant stab lead us instead to a tourist information center (pink dotted path on map below). I really recommend coming here if you don’t know where to go or what to do. The customer service is amazing – they are extremely helpful and super friendly.
Not knowing where the Trick Eye Museum was, the staff provided us with maps and hand drew directions on them for us. On top of this, they gave us info on specials and Grand Korea sale cards so we could get as many discounts as possible during our trip!! How nice right!?!
Even with our amazing directions, the Trick Eye Museum wasn’t exactly the easiest thing to find…I’ll let you guess why:
It’s like completely hidden right?!?!!?!?!!? I was expecting like some separate building which was quite large with considerable signage since it is a tourist spot!!! We walked passed it once or twice – it was hard to see!!!
You do need to set aside a fair bit of time for the Trick Eye Museum – the museum itself is broken up into sections (we almost missed one section). On top of this, there are three galleries and a cat museum. We just did the museum and it took us approx 3-4hours?
You definitely want to come here at a time where people are usually at school or work…seriously…otherwise there are huge lines and a stack of couples left, right and center. If you don’t know it now, you will definitely find out when you go to Korea that Korean couple culture is INTENSE. There has never been a time in my life where I wanted to be more in love. I was like damn…I want a Korean man right now, they appear to treat their girlfriends so well!! *Filled with envy*
— End of sidetracked tangent —
So what exactly is the Trick Eye Museum? Basically it is an interactive museum revolving around a new concept that stimulates your creativity and imagination through the Trompe-l’oeil (eye tricking) technique through vision. To achieve this, the museum features a mixture of artworks and 3D installations you can interact with and take photos of, so you end up looking like a part of the picture.
A bonus – according to the brochure:
“…The trickeye artwork helps you learn aesthetic senses of form and also stimulates your creativity, which leads to the activation of your brain. Your logic and thinking abilities will enhance!”
LOL! Woahh okay I’m sure these paintings aren’t that miraculous! None the less, they are still awesome. Now onto the photos!
One of the different kinds of optical illusions at the museum. These were paintings on the floor which when looked at from a certain angle, looked 3D
Nothing better than a warm drink on a frosty Korean winter day..Siree’s part time job.This illusion was awesome!! Jokes, Siree is just a midget and I’m a giant.Love struck. My expression is good no? That’s what I call dedication.It’s not everyday you get to be up close and personal with a RhinoI love my sushi!!She was like this the whole trip. What a junkie!Nicki Minaj right there.Siree’s tactic for stealing the Museum’s food.Being posers in typical Korean style LOLSiree’s typical ‘pretending to be on the phone but really I’m just a poser’s’ pose
These are only some of the AMAZING interactive artworks – there are many many more cool ones as well. All in all, The Trick Eye Museum is a great experience, a lot of fun, good laughs and results in some pretty awesome photos that friends and family were highly amused by.
For more info on the Trick Eye Museum such as transportation and pricing, check out the bottom section of this post.
The rest of Hongdae is pretty amazing. It’s just a really nice place to go to just chillax with friends. There are super cute and relatively cheap fashion boutiques (the pinkage wig store is also here, but we were slightly disappointed with it!!), really cute cafes, awesome street food, epic clubs for amazingly great clubbing adventures, and just an overall really nice youth atmosphere – really safe, REALLY nice people, and no drunkard idiots – you can actually make real friendships.
The Hongdae Charm
Hongdae by day. I don’t know why, but I really like the look of streets like this…maybe because it looks quite foreign from what we’d find in Sydney.This is along one of the back streets of Hongdae where most of the clubs are. This street also connects to Hongik Uni. The shopfront you see in the picture named “Mama” is actually a club. This is what most of the clubs in Hongdae look like – they usually have a small black-painted entrance with the club’s name on it in large white text. Inside you usually go down a set of stairs to the clubbing area.Very naice. LOL. Opposite Condomania is NB1, where we had our awesome clubbing experience!!This believe it or not is a restaurant. How nice is it?!!? This is what I mean about Hongdae, its style is sooooo nice!!Pizza restaurant up close…completely diggin’ this styleAnother restaurant. Pretty~Cute, I love Hongdae!!I don’t know why, but Korea tends to have a thing for owning a shop pet (usually dogs). Cafe’s have them as well, we found it was fairly common. This one belonged to a cute accessory store in Hongdae.HOW NICE ARE THE CAFES!?!?! Seriously Sydney!! Get your act together!!hehehe Master Roshi!!Yup! Love Korean couple culture. So freaking cute.Hongdae at night. Look at these cute shops!! I wish we had something like this in Sydney. I love Korea’s concept of using really visual store fonts/windows, and the clothes are just too cute!Hongdae at night. I really love Hongdae at night – it comes alive!Hahahaha this photo says it all!! “Why am I here?!” “I hate my job”
Food
Look at that preparation. Look at that skill. As soon as we saw it, we had to try it.BEST. CHICKEN. EVARRRRR!That block right there is butter. Yup. Buttery Goodness.Although I’m not a huge fan of sweets, this was delicious – buttery, sweet and savoury all at once. YUMMMMOur dinner. This was delish!! Spicy seafood hot pot. We also ordered a kimchi pancake…but unfortunately that was not so good…FREE ICECREAM AT KARAOKE!! Seriously Korea’s service is AMAZING!!!! You never get that kind of treatment in Sydney. It is seriously all these small things that make Korea really stand out and your holiday much more enjoyable!
I LOVE HONGDAE!!!!!!!!! Soooo good!!
Map
Map of Hongdae
Transportation:
For the general area: Take subway Line #2 to Hongik University Station, exit #5.
For Tourist Centre: Take Exit #5 out of Hongik University Station and follow the pink dotted line on the map.
Trick Eye Museum: Take exit #9 out of Hongik University Station and follow the blue dotted line on the map.
Address: B2 Seogyo Plaza, Seogyodong 357-1, Mapogu, Seoul.
Pricing: 13,000won Adults, 11,000won Students.
Opening Hours: 10:00AM – 9:00PM
Website: www.trickeye.com
How long should I spend there?
There are sooooo many things to do in Hongdae that Siree and I came here on many different occassions. You definitely need a day to look around, but you will find you need to come back here to dedicate time for shopping, checking out some of the awesome places to eat and to visit places such as the Cat Cafe and Trick Eye Museum. This is also a great place to hang out with friends, so if you have Korean friends, you will find yourself hanging out here with them often, as Siree and I did.
When to come to Hongdae:
You should experience Hongdae both at day and at night. There is always something going on in Hongdae, expecially at night, so it is definitely worth checking out. For example one night we went to Hongdae, there was a HUGE outdoor silent disco going on. FREAKING. AMAZING.
Dongdaemun is, quite frankly, HUGE and overwhelming. In my life, I have never seen so many shopping places all in one area. Infact – considering Australia’s severely lacking shopping industry – I bet Dongdaemun alone has more clothing and larger amounts of shopping malls than all the shopping centres combined in Australia. I mean magine 5-6 Westfields in one spot, with some DFOs chucked in as well. That is what Dongdaemun is, the Armageddon of SHOPPING MALLS!!!
I don’t know if it is because we live in Australia and shopping here is somewhat unobtrusive, but we found shopping in Dongdaemun (or anywhere in Korea) extremely straining – mentally and emotionally. Shopping in Dongdaemun is this mixture of head spinning clothing overload and extreme hyper-giddyness over the sheer amount of clothing available to one person. It was so emotionally draining that Siree and I actually became physically tired – we had so much to cover in such little time! You just didn’t know what to buy in case you found something better elsewhere, but by the time you had looked elsewhere, you had already forgotten about the first item because there were just THAT many clothes. It is completely impossible to compare items and pricing in Dongdaemun. Just don’t even try. If you see something and you really like it, buy it. Chances are you wont find it again if you don’t!!!
The Cheonggyecheon Steam and one of the many shopping streets in Dongdaemun which we didn’t get to explore…
Don’t get me wrong, we still loved shopping here and always will.
One of my favourite highlights of Dongdaemun was the abundance of street food. So being the foodies we are, this was naturally our first Dongdaemun pittstop. We decided to stop at this little stall that sold fish shaped “pastries” filled with all different kinds of fillings.
Some of the flavours. I had pizza it was actually really yummy!! Though I really wanted to try the sweet potato one too…should have bought both.Look at the cute menus! I love how Korea always decorates everything so nicely!!!The process of making our pastriesLOL totally doesn’t look like the picture haha but tasted way better than expected!!
Street food vendors literally line the streets in Dongdaemun. The smell is so good, and trust me after a long day of shopping some Korean street food goodness is just what you need.
Some more streetfood…I am seriously drooling remembering the smell and taste. My favourites – Ddeokbokki as well as fish cake in this really nice broth…soo good in winter in KoreaSiree’s potato chip and sausage hotdog…? LOL Gotta love Korea’s inventive street food.
If you think Dongdaemun is awesome by day, it completely comes alive at night with entertainment, influxes of people and amazingly lit shopfront displays. One thing I got to love about Korea is they seem to really enjoy their Christmas decorations, so even though almost a month had passed since Christmas, everywhere was still filled with Christmas lights and decorations, which was super pretty!
Going all out with the lighting. Where do they keep all the cables??The lights on this building would move and change into different animations. It was so pretty!! Unfortunately we didn’t even have time to check out the inside of the building.Soooo pretty!!!Doota!
Something you might want to be wary of when shopping in Dongdaemun, or anywhere in Korea for that matter, is the amount of shopping bags you are holding. Because there will be a point somewhere in your trip, where you are holding way too many bags that…you accidentally leave one of your shopping bags behind…and don’t realise until it’s too late… That is exactly what happened to me *cries*!!!! I know right how could I?!!?
The entire trip my brain was mush, but this seriously was the icing on the cake. I was so pissed off I resorted to modes of self punishment, which included retreating into quiet bouts of internal self reflection on how I could be so freaking reckless. I was so upset as my really nice (and cheap) double collared blouse was in the bag I had left behind. If theres one positive thing about Korean shopping its the fact that usually when it comes to the clothing and shoes there is usually only one piece of each item available to purchase, making your outfits more unique…however this obviously becomes a negative when you lose your shopping bags and now fear that you will never be able to find and buy that particular item again. Luckily for me though, I was reunited with my beautiful blouse the second time I went to Dongdaemun, although overall this meant it cost me 50000 won instead of 25000 won. sigh.
Map:
How to get to Dongdaemun:
Exit Dongdaemun Station exit 7 or 8. Dongdaemun has numerous shopping places, but for the “main” tourist area, you will need to pass Dongdaemun gate and cross the bridge that passes over the Cheonggyecheon river (see first image in post). 5 minute walk..not even.
How long to spend in Dongdaemun:
Siree and I spent 1.5 – 2 days of our schedule at Dongdaemun…and we only explored apM, Migliore and Doota..which is roughly (hardly) one side of Dongdaemun…soooo dissappointed at our efforts right now.
Tips:
If you are planning on shopping hardcore in Korea, go here first!!! Clothes are much cheaper here than items sold in Myeongdong and Hongdae – and often all 3 areas sell the same clothes.
Take a map with you so you dont miss any shopping areas. We didn’t take a map and therefore didn’t realise how many areas we didn’t explore!!!
Bargain wherever possible in stores like apM and Migliore…and use “aegyo”. It seriously works wonders – I got shoes down from 50000 won to 40000 won..and even ended up saving $160 on a leather jacket! Bargaining doesn’t really work in Department stores though.
Run by two travel and lifestyle bloggers, The Hidden Thimble focus’ on creating truthful and in-depth travel guides, food & beauty reviews. Enjoy drool-worthy photography from around the world!