Feed your Soul at Tsukiji – the World’s Largest Fish Market
hile the rest of Tokyo sleeps, one place stirs awake and comes alive during the wee hours of the early morning.
Like bees to a hive, many flock to Tsukiji Fish Market – the largest wholesale seafood market in the world and epicenter for restaurants to source the crème de la crème of produce. Home to record-breaking bluefin tuna, high-quality ingredients and raved by culinary fans, no visit to Tokyo is complete without savoring the taste of the freshest and finest of seafood Japan has to offer. But Tsukiji Market is more than just a mere fishmonger market. From decadent seafood bowls, exquisite wagyu and even sweet treats such as ice cream and traditional daifuku, Tsukiji’s outer marketplace offers a variety of food choices that will excite your senses as you weave your way through each culinary corridor.
From here, we’ll expand your food appreciation and take you through the best foods to try at Tsukiji Market.
Seafood Lovers Galore
tasty seafood treat at every corner, seafood lovers will be spoiled for choice at Tsukiji!
Whether you dine in at a small sushi restaurant for their sushi-of-the-day omakase or get your hands slightly dirty with some good finger food from a friendly food vendor, there is no shortage of seafood eateries to choose from. For us, seeing the lavish displays of the seafood vendors with ready-to-eat dishes was the obvious choice to explore Tsukiji’s food scene.
From the display, visitors can select the seafood they want and the vendor will lightly grill or garnish raw dishes with sauce to eat on the spot. While eating at vendor shops there are a few things to remember:
It is generally frowned upon to eat while walking around the market since you can easily bump people when it’s crowded. To avoid spilling your appetising seafood dish on others, it is best to eat at the store where you bought it from.
Tsukiji Market does not have public bins as it’s the responsibility of store owners to dispose of any garbage. Once you have finished your food, you can either give the garbage to the store owner or throw it in the bin they provide.
In regards to food hygiene and concerns of potential food poisoning, many vendors keep their seafood fresh on beds of ice which helps regulate temperature control. Nevertheless, if you are worried about having a weak stomach, order from stores that are located under shaded areas rather than exposed to direct sunlight.
Whichever way you decide to dine, Tsukiji’s outer market will keep you entertained with over 300 shops and eateries to choose from. Here is just a small collection of the seafood we ate on our visit:
Huge fresh oysters served with soy sauce.
A5 graded wagyu beef sticks with sea urchin.
Fresh sea urchin.
Mixed sashimi plates of tuna, salmon, octopus, prawns, and scallop.
Scallop butter soy sauce freshly grilled at カキ小食堂.
Snow crab, King crab, lobster, and jumbo-sized prawn and scallop ready for grilling.
Gyudon and Offal Stew at Kitsuneya
long-time favourite of the locals, Kitsuneya was established in 1947. To this day, they are still cooking and dishing out some of the best gyudon beef bowls and stewed offal rice bowls in town.
Instantly recognisable by the large bubbling pot of reddish-brown stew simmering at the front of the small eatery, Kitsuneya is so popular that there are lines of hungry patrons waiting before the opening time of 6:30 AM!
Their signature dish is simmered offal stew (ホルモン) on rice and is the store’s
specialty that has been handed down for three generations. The recipe originated from the owner’s grandfather who was a geta shoe craftsman and regularly made the stew as a side dish for his sake.
With a taste and smell so distinct and one-of-a-kind, Kitsuneya’s humble stew rice bowls are morsels of homemade love. Their second popular dish, gyudon, is also beloved by many and is worth ordering with a side of stewed offal, just how the original creator enjoyed it.
hile eating sashimi or sushi you may have noticed that it’s usually accompanied by an egg dish called tamagoyaki.
This pairing of raw fish and egg omelette might seem an unlikely pair but traditionally, it played a role in sushi presentation to add a pop of bright colour to the seafood.
Originally, sushi chefs not only prepared and served fish but also made their own tamagoyaki for their establishment, however it has become more of a tradition in recent times. In fact, making the perfect tamagoyaki is still considered the markings
of a highly-skilled sushi chef as temperature control is needed to make the appearance of the tamagoyaki perfectly yellow and blemish-free.
At Tsukiji there are a handful of tamagoyaki stores selling their own take on the humble egg omelette, but Tsukiji Yamacho is the crowd favourite. Originally dedicated to only supplying to restaurants, they opened their operations to the general public after many requests and have a large following among the international crowd. For just 100 yen, these tasty omelettes on a skewer are made right in front of you and you can choose between sweet or savory.
Fresh Fruit and Strawberry Daifuku at Tsukiji Iroha
fter eating all that great grub, indulging in something sweet would be the perfect way to finish any meal.
Within the maze of the outer market, the odd cafe and dessert stand peeks through among the savory delights and the most recognisable is the colorful fruit display at Tsukiji Iroha.
The Tsukiji Iroha store comprises of three stands: one dedicated to fruity drinks like
banana juice, fruit jelly drinks, and shaved ice called 168 Banana, while the others specialise in the traditional Japanese sweet daifuku, fruit slices, and fruit skewers.
Though a simple fruit stick will set you back a whopping 1000 yen, the hefty price tags are not without reason. The fruits served at Tsukiji Iroha are the premium ranked variety graded on their perfection in appearance, taste, and size. Here, you can also find the famed white strawberry, Yubari King melon, and Shine Muscat grape just to name a few.
The best way to get to Tsukiji Outer Market is by train. For many, the beginning of Tsukiji Market is instantly recognisable by the Lawson convenience store and Jonathan Family Restaurant that act as the starting point before making your way through the outer market maze. Luckily, many of the subway station exits nearby lead to this starting point.
Here are multiple subway lines that you can take:
Toei Oedo Line
Using the Toei Oedo Line, get off at “Tsukijishijo Station” and it will be an easy one-minute walk from the station.
Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line
Using the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line, get off at “Tsukiji Station” and it will be an easy one-minute walk from the station. Alternatively, you can also take the Hibiya Line to “Higashi-Ginza Station” and Tsukiji Outer Market is a 3-minute walk away.
Toei Asakusa Line
Using the Toei Asakusa Line, get off at “Higashi-Ginza Station” and it will be a three-minute walk from the station
See Cute Chinchillas, Otters, and Hedgehogs In the Heart of Tokyo
f you enjoy being surrounded by furry cottontails and fluffy clouds that jump, hop, and wobble, a visit to Japan’s animal cafes will have you feeling like you have arrived at sweet, dreamy paradise.
In the early 2000s, Japan’s first cat cafes boomed from the desire of many to be able to connect with sweet animal companions. Tokyo’s numerous no-pet apartments left lonely city folks wishing to meet with something other than the daily grind of monotonous life after work.
Since then, the popularity of these animal cafes expanded and gave both animal lovers and the curious at heart a space to take some time out of their busy schedules and relax in the company of cuddly creatures. But not everyone’s ideal pet is the everyday cat and dog. What about the chance to imagine a pet that you usually wouldn’t be able to have?
Introducing HARRY HARAJUKU Terrace! A combination of a petting zoo, pet shop, and cafe where you’ll be able to enjoy the company of hedgehogs, chinchillas, rabbits, gophers, and even otters just waiting to get to know you at their rooftop store in the heart of Tokyo’s Harajuku neighborhood.
I mean, it’s not every day you get to encounter an otter out in the wild or outside a zoo setting, am I right?
Talyssa and I thought so and thus, we’ll share how to enjoy chin-chilling at this unique HARRY’s brand of animal cafe.
What to Do
alking inside HARRY HARAJUKU Terrace, you’ll notice chinchillas chilling quietly inside their roomy cages and bunnies hopping freely in their pens.
From this point, you have two options on how you can spend your time at the cafe. The first is the free option to look around and view the animals from afar as a casual visitor.
On the other hand, paying for an experience will allow you to do extra activities such as handling and feeding the animals which aren’t available on a regular visit. You can either book an experience on the day on-site or you can reserve ahead and book online.
The Outdoor Otter Enclosure
The Gopher Enclosure Inside
Playtime
epending on your chosen ticket plan, once you have entered the enclosure you will be seated and the staff will hand you the chosen animal for playtime.
For Talyssa and I, our first encounter was with the chinchillas – an animal that is actually banned in our homeland of Australia. So you can imagine how special it was to be able to see what these cute smiley hoppers were like!
During playtime, we sat on some comfy benches as the staff handled the chinchilla for us to hold. They placed the chinchilla in a basket for safety which we could put on our laps and instructed us how to hold our little fluffy cloud. Though these playtime sessions aren’t necessarily “playful” in nature and more “touch and hold” experiences, it was still very enjoyable. I was impressed that our new brush-tailed friend was very well behaved. Calm and cute, I can understand why many people have them as household pets.
After our time with our chinchilla came to an end, we proceeded to our final playtime friends – the otters!
Unfortunately, unlike the other animals, we couldn’t hold the otters as they were kept in an enclosure with a pool. Though, maybe it was for the best because they were such hyperactive little playmates! They loved to hide and play wrestle with each other it was incredibly adorable and entertaining to watch.
If you are lucky, there are holes throughout the clear enclosure for feeding and if you hold your hand near one, you might just get a high five from your new otter pal as he searches for a tasty treat. If you are interested in playing with the otters, you should definitely book a feeding plan in advance.
Feeding time
or a little bit extra, we definitely recommend the feeding plan if you are planning to book an experience at HARRY’s. The staff will give you special feed for each animal and show you how to feed them as well.
Though feeding the chinchillas was cute, the most exciting and cutest feeding session was definitely with the otters!
As we approached their enclosure, the otters would howl with excitement once they sensed food was coming and stuck out their little paws at the offered snack. Unexpectedly, Talyssa and I could not stop gushing and squealing over how cute it was to touch their paws. To describe the feeling, otter paws are very soft to the touch and because they are webbed, it’s almost like touching little velvet cotton balls. It was a brief but memorable moment and it’ll make your heart melt, too!
Enjoy your Complimentary Drink
s part of your plan, each ticket allows you to have one complimentary drink to enjoy with your visit.
Usually, animal cafes limit their choices to the standard tea or coffee but at HARRY HARAJUKU Terrace, their drink menu items are different. You not only get to enjoy these classic afternoon beverages but their vending machines also include hot soup for the winter! They also have other drink variations like strawberry au lait, honey lemon, and muscat grape juice!
Also to note, there is no food available on-site but HARRY cafe does allow you to bring your own food and drink (no alcohol is allowed of course) to consume at designated eating areas.
great place to detour for an afternoon, HARRY HARAJUKU Terrace is definitely worth the stop-over especially if you’re looking to come into personal contact with some of the cutest exotic animals you will ever meet outside a zoo.
I noticed the staff took very good care of their animals and the shop was incredibly clean and spotless. They also disinfected regularly and had hand sanitizer freely available for customers to ensure hygiene which I thought was very responsible.
All the staff we interacted with were very friendly and also spoke very good English that you could also make light conversation which was very refreshing.
Overall, our experience at HARRY’s HARAJUKU Terrace was not only a lot of fun but a fantastic side adventure to break up our busy travel schedule. So next time you’re in town, take a break and unwind with these incredible animals that we share our earth with.
tale as old as time, Kagura is a style of ancient dance performance reenacting classical Japanese myths of fearsome demons, mischievous yet ferocious gods, and tales of good versus evil.
Kagura is Japan’s earliest form of folk performing arts and has been practiced at Shinto shrines for over a millennium, entertaining the Imperial courts or at festivals. Though performing troupes specializing in Kagura have been decreasing due to modern times, it is still considered a living tradition with a deep spiritual connection to Shinto rituals set to the cycles of the agricultural calendar.
If you are keen to witness this dance of the gods throughout Japan many regional variations exist. Talyssa and I found ourselves in the rich scenic Miyazaki prefecture where the Kagura style at Takachiho is performed slower with the most popular location set within the grounds of Takachiho shrine – one of the spiritual power spots of the area.
Being a small country town, there are limited sources of English explanations about Takachiho’s Kagura but don’t let the language barrier deter you from experiencing one in person! Enjoying Kagura can appeal to all types of people since not a single word is spoken. Though, of course, having some background knowledge into the legends that surround each dance would make the performance that much more enjoyable.
Luckily through our experience, we’ll share with you all there is to know about the viewing of Kagura shows at Takachiho Shrine and maybe you’ll even have the chance to be part of the show!
Ema (wooden plaques for writing wishes) depicting Takachiho’s kagura at Takachiho Shrine.
Kagura in Takachiho
eing completely new to the world of classical Japanese theatre we weren’t sure what we were getting into. Little did we realize, seeing the art of Kagura performed here shares a special connection to Japanese mythology.
Takachiho is home to the Amano-Iwato cave, the cave where the goddess Amaterasu hid according to the legend. As a matter of fact, the cave and the Takamagahara pantheon – a site that is said to be the gathering spot for the other gods to discuss how to coax Amaterasu out of the holy cave – are both located in the Takachiho area near Amano Iwato Shrine.
The tale of Amano-Iwato, being one of the most important and well-known legends in Japan, is proudly celebrated as part of the town’s heritage. Takachiho has special Kagura night dances (yokagura) dedicated to retelling the legendary quarrel between the divine siblings as well as other deeds by the gods in a series of 33 parts.
These performances are held at various locations but predominantly at Amano Iwato Shrine and Takachiho Shrine on Saturday evenings from mid-November to mid-February. The main performance held on November 22nd to 23rd is called the Takachiho Yokagura Festival. It celebrates an 800-year-old tradition with a night full of dancing, storytelling, drumming, mask-wearing, and drinking shochu liquor made from potato, wheat, or rice. Best of all, it’s a free all-night event though you are expected to make an offering of money or shochu. For a culturally rich evening steeped in tradition and the hospitality of the local community, this sounds like a welcomed tradeoff.
For those traveling outside these months, you can still enjoy a shortened version of the epic tale at Takachiho Shrine throughout the year for just 700 yen.
The Takamagahara Pantheon – a key site in the Amano-Iwato legend.
hough we missed the opportunity to see a full performance of a night Kagura dance, we were able to enjoy the shortened show at Takachiho Shrine instead.
Purchasing a ticket was very simple and straightforward and the reception counter opens an hour before the show starts at 8PM. Arriving early with a ticket and English pamphlet in hand we entered the Kagura Hall eager to get a good view.
There are a few things you need to keep in mind before entering the performance room. The most important is to take your shoes off before entering the room. Though you can simply leave your shoes at the entrance neatly, the Shrine also has plastic bags available to place your shoes inside if you want to keep them with you.
When you enter the room, you can choose anywhere to sit on the floor in front of the stage. Though the shrine does not provide chairs or cushions, you are allowed to bring your own to make it more comfortable. The show runs for an hour roughly so sitting on a blanket or something to cushion your butt while you watch is sweet relief from the hard flooring.
When the show is about to begin, the shrine’s head priest appears and will act as the MC for the night. He speaks only in Japanese throughout the show but in general, he addresses the audience to introduce the show, talk a little about the town’s heritage and provides some context to the stories performed.
As the sweet and haunting sound of a Japanese bamboo flute starts to play, the performer enters the stage with the beating of the drum ready to tell the story of legends.
The Dance of Tajikarao
The Dance of Tajikarao depicts the god of physical strength, Tajikarao, using various methods to search for Amaterasu before discovering the Heavenly Rock Cave she was hiding behind. In this dance, his mask is depicted as a white face with yellow hair and the performer is holding a Kagura Suzu in his hand. The Kagura Suzu is a bell instrument used during Kagura and Shinto practice with the purpose of calling the gods’ attention.
The Dance of Uzume
The goddess of performing arts, Ame no Uzume, performs a dance in front of the cave Amataersu was hiding in. According to the legend, in her trance-like state, her dancing became increasingly lewd (like a striptease) causing the gathered gods to howl in laughter. This piqued Amaterasu’s curiosity and caused her to emerge to see the commotion outside.
The Dance of Totori (Removing the Door)
During this dance, the god Tajikarao uses his great strength to remove the hefty door of the cave and in the dance’s climax, rips it off and lifts it over his head in triumph. To show his great strength, this dance depicts his mask as a red face with jet black hair. This particular pose is strikingly memorable and many depictions of Tajikarao show him in this iconic stance. It is said that he threw the cave door with so much might, it landed on the top of Mount Togakushi in old Shinano Province (now known as Nagano Prefecture).
The Dance of Goshintai (Embodiment of the Kami)
The final dance is of the divine couple, Izanagi and Izanami, who are the creators of Japan and many gods (including Amatarasu and Susanoo) according to legend.
The performance shows them in marital bliss pulling off harmless pranks on each other in front much to our amusement. During the dance, they are shown brewing and drinking sake when they both become so drunk, they venture off the stage and become flirtatious with lucky audience members. With a good laugh and happy smiles on our faces, it was a perfect way to end the show and to highlight the significance of sake as a traditional custom. In old texts, sake was called “God wine” and the happiness of drinking it traditionally was thought of as a way of bringing the gods and the people together. This dance also serves as a prayer for a happy marriage, birthhood, and a prosperous harvest.
Takachiho Shrine’s Kagura Hall
The Dance of Tajikarao
The god Tajikarao holding a Kagura Suzu bell.
The Dance of Uzume
The Dance of Totori (Removing the Door)
The god Tajikarao showing his strength and lifting the cave door.
The Dance of Goshintai (Embodiment of the Kami)
The creators Izanagi and Izanami making and drinking sake.
Izanagi and Izanami getting drunk on sake and the chaotic fun begins…
How to get to Takachiho
From Kumamoto
From Kumamoto Airport, there are direct highway buses to the Takachiho Bus Center operated by Kyushu Sanko Bus and Miyazaki Kotsu. Be mindful as there are only two buses scheduled per day. The whole trip will take around 2 hr 30 min and costs 2410 yen one way.
From Miyazaki
From Miyazaki Airport, you can take the JR Nichirin or Hyuga limited express train to Nobeoka Station and transfer to a number 71/72 Miyazaki Kanko bus to the Takachiho Bus Center. The whole trip will take roughly 3 hr 30 min. The express train will take 80 minutes and costs 3000 yen while the bus trip will take 90 minutes and costs 1820 yen.
By car
As Takachiho is situated within the mountains surrounding the Mount Aso area, public transportation is both rather infrequent and inconvenient. Your best bet is to hire a rental car to get the most out of your trip. Not to mention the mountain drive is both scenic and beautiful especially during the autumn time! The easiest way to rent a car is at the airport.
If you are looking for a place, we hired our rental car through Nippon Rent-A-Car at Kumamoto Airport which was very easy and had great staff service.
way from busy city life, the wilderness of Oita Prefecture awaits you!
While its unspoiled scenery will keep you busy with great hiking, traditional shrines, temples, and great options for visitors seeking green or blue tourism opportunities, there is another thing worth seriously exploring – the hot springs.
Indeed, hot springs or “onsen” in Oita are numerous and exceptional. In fact, Oita has the most hot springs in Japan with over 4,500! This also includes one of the country’s largest hot springs areas, Yufuin.
Tranquil, quaint, and blessed with charming sceneries of peaceful fields, Yufuin developed into a popular onsen town with streets lined with delicious food, boutiques selling high-quality local crafts, and petite art museums.
With rich artistic and cultural sights mixed with an air of refined, up-market sophistication, Yufuin will not only delight hot spring aficionados and nature lovers but those who enjoy a return to traditional skills and crafts.
Wild cosmos flowers growing in Yufuin
Mount Yufu and its famous twin peaks
What to Do
Yufuin Floral Village
ne of the main attractions to the area is the Yufuin Floral Village, a mini theme park modeled after the historical villages of the Cotswolds area in England. The Cotswolds are also famous for being the filming location for many iconic films like Harry Potter.
Though more of a shopping town than theme park, the Yufuin Floral Village shop interiors are generally quite petite and narrow, decorated with colourful flowers, retro lamps fixtures, and exteriors reminiscent of old English architecture. With the mountain ranges in the distance and the cute store-lined street in the foreground, Yufuin Floral Village creates the perfect ambiance for photos, where you can recreate the mystical worlds of your favourite fantasy films or books.
Many of the stores are souvenir and gift shops generally themed around franchises from your childhood like Alice in Wonderland, Peter Rabbit, Moomins, Studio Ghibli to modern ones like Shaun the Sheep and of course, Disney.
Another major area is dedicated to the 1974 anime series “Heidi, Girl of the Alps” where you can find life-size character cutouts for photos, Heidi themed goods, a popcorn stand, and also a screening area to watch episodes.
Other attractions include petting zoos and feeding stations, owl and cat cafes, local handicraft shops, and a small food market.
Patting the goats in the “Heidi, Girl of the Alps” area
Feeding station to feed the rabbits
Shopping on Yunotsubo Street
ith around 70 different stores to see, browsing through Yunotsubo Street is an exciting opportunity to see what local goodies Yufuin has to offer.
You’ll find everything from cute cafes, stylish restaurants to shops selling high-quality handicrafts, local street foods, art galleries, and small museums. There is also the mother of all Studio Ghibli stores, Donguri no Mori, also affectionately called the Totoro store by some.
Yunotsubo Street is quite diverse in offerings ranging from traditional souvenirs to modern sweets and goods. Nearby, the small plaza known as Yasuragi Yokocho preserves an old-fashioned charm. There are 14 shops in total where you can find the famous purindora (a Japanese sweet pancake usually with red bean filling but in this version, a custard pudding – one of the must-eats in the area).
Since the overall town’s layout is quite compact, it makes exploring easy by foot. Though be warned, many of the stores close early between 5PM or 6PM.
Yufuin has a treasure trove of handcraft stores to explore
Impressive glass and music box display at Orgel’s Forest
Art galleries and museums
omething refreshingly different in this resort town is the amount of art galleries and museums you can visit ranging from highbrow to lowbrow.
Lovers of modern art will enjoy the COMICO ART MUSEUM designed by famed architect, Kengo Kuma. Artists such as Takashi Murakami, Hiroshi Sugimoto, and Yoshitomo Nara have whole gallery spaces dedicated to their works showcased here and the art museum showcases creators of manga, novels, and movies.
Artegio is another contemporary art museum that combines music and art. It aims to create a world where music and art – audio and vision – directly inspire each other and the works on display are one of a kind, all with instrument motifs.
For something on the fun side, Yufuin has a trick eye museum called Trick 3D Art Yufuin where you can enjoy self-made “artworks” posing with their optical illusion paintings.
Alternatively, get your hands dirty at the Yufuin Mingei Mura, a folk crafts village devoted to various traditional craftsmanship like pottery, glass-blowing, and ceramics. They also offer workshops for washi papermaking and indigo dyeing.
This is only a small list of the various other art galleries and museums that you should check out in Yufuin but all works are created by artists with special connections to the area.
ollowing Yunotsubo Street all the way to the foot of Mount Yufu is Lake Kinrin, famous for the mystical way the morning mist lingers over the lake’s surface during the colder seasons.
This is because at the bottom of Lake Kinrin there are two springs: one normal and the other a hot spring. The combination of cold and hot water creates hot steam which rises and makes the mist.
hile exploring the town you might also hear the trotting of a horse-drawn carriage.
The Yufuin Horse Carriage is a sightseeing carriage taking passengers through Yufuin’s famous sights and various shrines nearby.
Horse carriages have been a feature of the town since 1975 when Oita experienced
a big earthquake and the carriages were devised to help revive tourism to the area. As the carriages are Polish-made, their presence in the town makes Yufuin stand out from other Japanese resort towns.
If you would like to add a European touch to your Yufuin experience, the horse carriage tours need to be booked at the Yufuin Onsen Tourism Association in front of JR Yufuin Station and can be booked on the day. A ride lasts for about 1 hour and costs 1,600 yen for adults and 1,100 yen for children.
esides the beautiful countryside, there is another local treat in abundance and that is food.
Yufuin has some of the most delicious looking street food to feast your eyes on ranging from the trendy cute tapioca milk teas and sweets to classic Japanese street food like grilled seafood and fried foods. There is something to eat at every corner!
For foodies wanting to know what’s good, the local food specialties of Yufuin are yuzu kosho (Japanese seasoning made from chili peppers, yuzu citrus peel, and salt), croquettes, purindora, swiss rolls, and Bungo Beef which is a local beef breed special to Oita Prefecture.
Although we wished we could sample all there was on offer, here are our food highlights:
Grilled Softshell Shrimp Skewers
Huge Crab Stick
Giant Takoyaki with 10 Fillings (ginger, tempura bits, clam, corn, cabbage, shimeji mushroom, mochi, sausage, squid, and quail egg)
Cuttlefish and Shrimp and Onion Surimi (Fish Paste Cakes) at Houkyuuan in Yasuragi Yokocho
Yufuin Kinsho Croquettes is a famous street food in the area
Where to Stay
s a resort town so close to mountains and nature, the popular accommodation style in Yufuin are traditional ryokans.
These are perfect for those seeking a private getaway where you can enjoy the amenities the lodging has to offer and the majority of hotels have hot spring baths for guests. Most of the enjoyment of your stay comes from bathing as hot springs are seen as a luxurious treat, but the best stays are those that come with
a rotenburo (open-air bath) to get a great view of the Yufuin landscape especially at night when the stars come out.
Though most ryokans and hotels offer rotenburos that are open to all hotel guests, there are some that offer a private bath in your hotel room where you can fully immerse yourself in Yufuin’s rich nature and a private view of Mount Yufu’s twin peaks.
idden deep within the forested valley of one of Japan’s three famous mountains is an idyllic folk village, whose fairy-tale scenery of clustered thatched roof houses has gained world recognition as being one of the last of its kind.
In the 8th century, the historic village of Shirakawa-go became a settlement for ascetic religious practices – people living religiously in seclusion. Many practiced mountain worshiping and climbed the nearby Mount Haku to pray as it was seen as a sacred place of worship.
As time went on, Shirakawa-go began developing its own unique style of architecture called “Gassho-zukuri” from the 1700s, the designs continued to evolve up until the early 1900s which is what we see preserved today.
Shirakawa-go’s preserved buildings have stood for over 300 years, but without any protection, the construction of dams for hydroelectric power, fire, and the selling of land caused many houses to be lost. In fact, 300 gassho style houses existed in 1924 but this had plummeted to only 190 by 1961. Fearing that all Shirakawa-go’s gassho style houses would be lost, local preservation efforts were finally recognised in 1995, when Shirakawa-go was officially listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
With a stunning backdrop that changes with the seasons, Shirakawa-go preserves not only the natural scenery of the area but also the customs and traditions of daily farm life, still practiced by locals today.
Close up of a thatched house roof.
What to Do
ith its numerous historical buildings, temples, rice paddies, and stores scattered around the village, walking around Shirakawa-go is a pleasant experience while taking in the rural atmosphere. However, be warned some houses within the village are actually family homes and cannot be accessed by the public.
To avoid any awkward misunderstandings, it is best to grab a sightseeing map from the Shirakawa-go Tourist Association building before starting your adventure. Also, some of the prominent farmhouse locations will require a small entry fee to access.
After exploring what the village has to offer for ourselves, here’s our suggestions on what to do while in Shirakawa-go:
Ogimachi
he main attraction of Shirakawa-go is called Ogimachi and is the designated UNESCO world heritage site housing 190 thatched farmhouses, sheds, and barns.
Preserved as a sort of open-air museum, you can experience what traditional rural life was like over 250 years ago.
Discover Shirakawa-go’s Photo Spots
ith its picturesque natural scenery, Ogimachi and the surrounding areas of Shirakawa-go are a favourite spot for avid nature photographers and the occasional wedding photoshoot as well!
While the Ogimachi-jo Castle Ruins and Tenshukaku Observatories are the most popular and famous vantage points for photos of the village, check out our photo guide (coming soon) to find secret locations hidden within the village for the perfect photos.
Wada House
he largest Gassho-zukuri farmhouse in the village, the Wada House is owned by the Wada family who served as guardhouse officials of the area and also traded in explosives and silk.
The house to this day still preserves its original surroundings and traditional architecture with the main house, storehouse, and outhouse considered important
cultural assets.
Inside you can see various artifacts and daily items used by the Wada family who was one of the wealthiest families and village leaders of Ogimachi. You can also see how they store, feed, and cultivate the silkworms as well.
Ogimachi-jo Castle Ruins and Tenshukaku Observatories
here are two observatories that give exceptional views of the village below.
The first outlook is Ogimachi-jo Castle Ruins Observatory, the former site of the medieval castle fortress bearing the same name. On the opposite side is
the Tenshukaku Observatory which was the castle’s keep.
Though you can walk fairly easily to the observatories, there is also a shuttle bus that departs from Wada House.
What to See
epending on what time of the year you visit, Shirakawa-go has many seasonal events to enjoy.
Many of these events showcase the local nature, farming traditions as well as everyday village life.
Mount Haku Opening Ceremony
hen the winter snow has officially melted and hiking is possible, trek access to Mount Haku is celebrated with a ceremony taking place around the beginning of June.
uring the end of May, visitors can witness the locals’ rice planting season.
During the festival, the local men and women dress in traditional farming garbs with straw hats and plant the rice seedlings by hand one-by-one while
singing traditional rice planting songs. Since the fields are filled with water, you can also see beautiful reflections of the houses making for a great photo shot.
ne of the major festivals in Shirakawa-go, the Doburoku Festival celebrates the rice harvest season in autumn. Prayers are given to the mountain god by offering unrefined sake called “Doburoku” to show gratitude for the good harvest and safety within the village.
The festivities also include shishimai (lion dance) performances, folk songs and dances, entertainment, and improvised niwaka (buffoonery) while drinking Doburoku.
n New Year’s Day, the locals dress up as the 7 Gods of Fortune (Shichi-fuku-jin) and Maiko (apprentice geisha) to perform a traditional “happy” folk dance while parading around the farmhouses of
Shirakawa-go.
The Harukoma dance was originally a festival to pray for successful business for the silkworm farmers but nowadays is performed to wish for a large harvest and safety.
ne of the most famous views of Shirakawa-go is during winter when the village and roofs are covered in a thick blanket of snow.
While snowfall begins from late December until early March, it is the heaviest during the months of January and February and the houses appear to be “buried” by the surrounding deep white snow. In the evenings, the village lights
up the snow-covered farmhouses creating a magical winter scene straight from a fairy-tale.
Proper planning should be done to ensure a comfortable visit during this time as the roads will be blocked during heavy snow and the mountain area becomes incredibly cold during this season.
nside the Ogimachi area, you can enjoy local countryside food paired with the ambiance of the historical old farmhouses. In fact, there were a few restaurants and eateries on our list which would have been a great experience, unfortunately, finding an open eatery was no easy feat!
We were surprised to find that a majority of the eateries we tried to enter were in fact closed for business, no longer operating or full. We weren’t too sure if the reason for this was to preserve its surroundings asOgimachi is UNESCO protected but regardless, it was a bit frustrating especially when you are getting hungrier by the minute!
Instead, you will find many small food stands offering street food which we recommend trying like Hida beef croquette and dango.
If you want something more satisfying, you can use our interactive map for our recommended eating spots. We also have some pointers for those trying to find a place to eat in Ogimachi as well:
ith an abundance of nature around the village, every seasonal change in Shirakawa-go presents a new opportunity to experience the mountain wilderness and examples of rural village life.
For nature lovers, spring and autumn bring a bounty of budding blooms; with cherry blossoms, cosmos flowers, autumn leaves, and pampas grass painting the mountains and the village in gorgeous colours.
Summer turns the scenery into lush blankets of greens and brings good conditions for the hiking season while winter is infamous for its unique snow view of the village.
If you are interested in the traditions of farming life, spring and autumn are the ideal seasons to visit to witness rice planting and rice harvesting first hand.
From Takayama, you can take the express bus using the Nohi Bus, HOKURIKU RAIL ROAD, or Toyama Chiho Railway companies.
It takes about 50 minutes to arrive at Shirakawa-go and will cost ¥2600 one way.
From Takayama by Car
With plenty of signage on the roads to keep you on the right path, driving to Shirakawa-go is made easy and convenient. There is also plenty of parking on-site for a small charge.
Eating soba noodles remains a staple favourite in rural Japan, and the Takayama area grows some high-quality buckwheat making it the perfect place for some tasty soba noodles!
Searching for some local grub, we stumbled upon by coincidence Sumikyu (or Nadai Teuchisoba Sumikyu), a local soba restaurant that was selected in the 2019 Michelin’s Recommended Restaurants for the Aichi, Gifu, and Mie regions.
Founded in 1933, Sumikyu is homegrown in Takayama and has been owned by the same family for four generations. Specializing in handmade soba using only Hida locally sourced ingredients, see what makes this humble soba establishment so popular with locals and tourists alike.
SETTING AND ATMOSPHERE
aving such a long history in the town, it would seem only natural that Sumikyu would be located in the town’s iconic Furui-machi-nami – the old traditional area of Takayama.
From the outside, Sumikyu blends seamlessly into the surrounding maze of traditional wooden storefronts. To distinguish from the rest, a beautifully arabesque painted bike stands proudly at the front of the store. Hand-painted by the owner, it’s incredibly eye-catching and appears to be the trademark of Sumikyu.
Inside, Sumikyu’s interior feels like time hasn’t passed since the Showa period. Mainly decorated with wooden furnishings (no doubt a nod to Takayama’s craft-making history) and a number of horse paintings, the features give character to this local eatery.
The dining area is divided into two areas; one with tables and counter seating for people looking for a quick casual meal while the other is the tatami style area for those in small groups. Though we were only a party of two, Talyssa and I were able to snag the tatami style table which made our experience feel all the more traditional.
They also have a small section where you can buy their soba noodles, soba tea, and soba dipping sauce to recreate your own at home.
Overall, Sumikyu makes you feel like you found something special. A hidden gem that the locals would frequent and the true foodies would seek.
FOOD
umikyu is a certified store using solely Gifu Prefecture made products. The soba is made from scratch and Sumikyu also goes the extra mile by grinding their own soba flour by hand, using traditional stone tools to make their soba noodles.
Another thing you’ll notice about Sumikyu is their attention to food presentation. Their bowls of noodles are all beautifully presented with generous toppings that it feels more upscale than just your average dine-in.
Although there are many options of soba dishes on offer, there are two dishes that stand-out and are recommended to try in most reviews and magazine clippings of the restaurant: the Sansai Zaru Soba and the Amago Soba.
The Sansai Zaru Soba dish was like nature on a plate. The cold soba noodles were served on a fresh hoba leaf with a dipping sauce on the side and topped with Takayama’s famous mountain vegetables and a raw quail egg. It’s a great dish for health-conscious minds with a clean simple flavour focusing on the freshness of the ingredients. However, it may not be a dish for everyone.
While Japanese dishes in the West are typically the crowd favourites like teriyaki chicken, tempura and ramen, the slimy texture of the grated mountain yam (tororo) mixed with the raw quail egg yolk is a style of Japanese cuisine unfamiliar with many tourists and could be off putting for those who don’t like the idea of slimy slippery noodles. Talyssa found the texture unpleasant but if you’re like me and enjoy similar slimy foods like okra, you might find it more enjoyable.
Alternatively, the other most famous dish, the Amago Soba, will make your mouth water! The Amago Soba is a warm soba dish topped with a deliciously marinated trout and served in a sweet-salty warm mushroom broth. This dish was one of our favourites and was super tasty!
Towards the end of the meal, the staff will give you some sobayu in a teapot. Sobayu is a white creamy broth made from the boiled water of the soba noodles and mixed with the remaining dipping sauce to drink at the end of your meal. Be sure to hang around after you finished eating to complete your soba dining experience with some sobayu.
Sansai Zaru Soba (Mountain Vegetable Soba) ¥1250
Amago Soba ¥1250
SERVICE
espite the lunch rush, the service at Sumikyu was prompt and efficient. We were able to get a table upon arrival and the atmosphere was very cosy.
Unfortunately, the menu is entirely in Japanese but the most popular dishes have pictures next to them which makes ordering a breeze.
According to some reviewers over at Tripadvisor, the staff do speak good English but we weren’t able to confirm this since we communicated to the staff in Japanese during our visit.
VALUE FOR MONEY
onsidering everything was handmade from scratch, it is a little surprising how inexpensive dining at Sumikyu was!
The most expensive dish was only around ¥1850 which included seafood and most dishes were roughly the same amount as other soba restaurants at roughly ¥1100 on average.
Whether you choose to dine for lunch or dinner, Sumikyu offers great humble food at a very reasonable price.
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