Category Archives: Italy

5 Things To Do In Burano, Italy

5 Things To Do In Burano, Italy

olourful, unique and pretty things have always attracted me. Call me vain but I can’t help but be attracted to them.  So, when a last minute schedule change to my Italian holiday now included Venice, it also meant that Burano was within reach.

Yes! The island of Burano! Recognised internationally as one of the 10 most colourful cities in the world (although really, it’s more like a village). For those that don’t know, Burano is a picturesque fishing island located in the Northern Venetian lagoon and is part of an archipelago of four islands connected by footbridges.

Burano is small enough for a half day trip, or make it a full day trip by visiting nearby islands.  Here are my top 5 highlights when visiting Burano.

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Sample Burano's locally caught Seafood

urano is a fishing village and fishing villages usually mean amazingly, fantastic seafood. Burano is no exception, in fact I had my most delicious meal in all of Italy right here.

What many tourists don’t realise is that majority of the food sold in Venice isn’t actually Venetian.  That’s why a venture to Venice’s islands is worthwhile, especially if you want to try true Venetian food – it’ll taste better and cost you less that anything you’ll find on the Venice main island.

As a fan of Jamie Oliver, I remembered that in one of his TV episodes he visited Burano restaurant ‘Trattoria al Gatto Nero da Ruggero‘, where he met the ‘Risotto king of Venice’ and was taught how to make the perfect cuttlefish risotto.   Naturally, the foodie inside me really wanted to eat there but the place was completely booked out by the time I arrived on the island.

Hoping I’d find a restaurant just as delicious,  I stumbled across ‘Trattoria de Primo e Paolo‘.  Just like Trattoria al Gatto Nero, the restaurant is a family business.

The family catches their own seafood from the lagoon every morning and it is then also prepared by the family in the restaurant.The waitstaff were so friendly and could speak English well.  Unsure of what to eat, I was recommended the “antipasto misto di pescetti vari” which featured a variety of locally caught seafood prepared traditionally. Although an entrée, I was assured it would be large enough to keep me full.

I can’t say enough about the service, everyone I spoke to was really nice and the waiter took the time to explain the dish to me when it arrived.  The best way to experience this dish is by starting at the bottom row and working your way up, row by row. The bottom row is all about enjoying natural seafood flavours as they are. The flavours get more and more pronounced as you work your way up the dish.  The top row was where Venetian cuisine came alive and the Italians showed off their finesse for flavour combinations.

I absolutely loved it and it was worth the expensive 25 euros. Yes, pricey for a budget traveller like me, but so worth it!

Burano Island Venice - Trattoria de Primo e Paolo

Bottom: Sea Bass, Octopus, Abalone, Fish, Seabass

Middle: Prawn, octopus, octopus, prawn

Top: Mussel, Soft shell crab, shrimp, tuna

Burano Island Venice - Trattoria de Primo e Paolo

Burano Island Venice - Trattoria de Primo e Paolo

Stroll Burano's multi-coloured streets

Burano Island Venice

he main reason people visit Burano is to set their eyes on the brightly coloured houses that line the canals. With so much colour, I wondered if even the grumpiest person would feel a slice of happiness here.

And you know what? Yes they would, because the locals not only have houses that are every colour of the rainbow BUT they also coordinate the washing they hang up to match their houses. Therefore I conclude that this town is the happiest town alive, especially if the locals take the effort to colour coordinate the way they hang up their washing just to put a smile on the probably definitely annoying tourists that visit daily.

Turns out though, the coloured houses exist for a reason. Some say it was to help the local fishermen find their houses after fishing in the foggy winter mornings. Another source says the houses were painted the same colour as the fishermen’s boats, so if something happened to them out at sea, they would know which house to contact.

Today though, likely because of tourism, you’ll notice the houses in Burano follow a colour scheme. This is because, in order to paint your house in Burano, you need to officially request to do so from the government. If they agree, they will also let you know which colour you are allowed to paint it.

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

I wasn’t lying about the colour coordinated washing!

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

Burano Island Venice

The main street on the island is the Via Galuppi and it’s where you’ll find most restaurants, souvenir shops, bars and stores selling Italian snacks and food.

Wandering away from the main streets, you’ll find a tonne of colourful alleyways that are much quieter – some are even free of tourists during peak hour.  This makes a little wandering great for finding a quiet place to take photos if you were unable to beat the crowds by arriving early in the morning.

Other notable landmarks include the leaning bell tower and the Church of San Martino.

Casa Bepi, Burano Island Venice

Casa Bepi – Photo from Venezialines

Burano Island Venice - Souvenir Shops

Burano Island Venice - Souvenir Shops

Burano souvenir shops

Arrive Early and Use the Afternoon to Explore Surrounding Islands

et me start with saying, you’ve been lied to. All those articles you read about Burano being “Venice’s best kept secret” with little to no tourists is a big. Fat. Lie. At least nowadays it is. Burano is overflowing with tourists from 11:30am, so if you can make an effort to catch one of the first Vaporetto from Venice!  You’ll skip the tourists for a couple of hours and could probably also score a booking at the restaurant of your choice for lunch.

One thing I enjoyed about Burano was that it’s really small, which was great because it doesn’t take up a whole day on your probably already short travel itinerary.  Burano is perfect for a half day trip, meaning you have the afternoon to visit surrounding islands in the Venetian lagoon, such as Murano, popular for its glass making or Mazzorbo which is connected to Burano by a wooden walk bridge.  Mazzorbo is rich in history and beauty offering vineyards, traditional food, artichoke fields and fruit trees. Find about more in this small guide to Mazzorbo island, Italy.

Burano Island Venice

Early mornings in Burano

Experience the Tradition of Burano Lacemaking

urano’s close connection to lace goes back to its early history where, in the 1500s, Burano was becoming increasingly known for its intricate and delicate handmade lace. The fashion of the time created a high demand for lace across Europe and this continued to the late 1800s.

While tourism is the island’s biggest industry today, there are a small few that have carried on the tradition of lacemaking in Burano.  For tourists looking to purchase real Burano lace it doesn’t come cheap, with small items costing 45+ euros.   Burano lace can take months or even years to craft, so any cheap lace is likely Chinese imitations.

At the Museo del Merletto you can learn about the history of the craft and view 16th, 17th, and 18th century lace pieces crafted in Burano.  You’ll also find beautiful gowns worn by Queen Marghertia and Jackie Kennedy that are embellished with Burano lace.

Lace making was traditionally undertaken by women together with the friends and relatives at their houses and today some of the more traditional lace shops in Burano, still have woman inside crafting up their latest creations.

Burano Island Venice - Lace Shops

Get a Closer Look at True Venetian Culture

Burano Island Venice at Sunset

f you happen to venture to Burano during a Wednesday morning, you can enjoy Burano’s fresh fish market which features fresh seafood from the Venice lagoon.  All seafood is locally caught by the fisherman of Burano – what better way to sample Venice’s fresh produce.

If you’re only in Venice for a short time and didn’t have the chance to check out Murano and its history in traditional glass making, you can also watch the Murano glass work at the New Arte Fuga a small shop and glass factory located in Burano.

Lastly, consider staying overnight in Burano and you’ll be treated its heartwarming, authentic side.  As the crowds begin to leave the islands for their hotels in Venice, a stunning sunset awaits.  Watch as Burano is illuminated with the shimmering lights reflecting on the canal waters as the residents come out of their homes to catch up with one another or play cards and listen to music in the streets.

Getting to Burano from Venice

etting to Burano from Venice is super easy and will set you back around 40 – 45minutes.

Simply take Vaporetti (water bus) #12 from the Fondamente Nove Piere. The vaporetti also stops at Murano, Mazzorbo, Burano, Treporti and Punta Sabbioni, making a day trip to a couple of these islands super easy.

As a quick tip, water bus tickets in Venice are only valid for a certain time frame.  A single ticket (one way) is only valid for 75minutes. So if you plan to go to Burano, but stop off and spend time at other islands first, you will need to buy another ticket to get to Burano.  Therefore, if you plan to stop off at numerous places during the day, it might be smarter to buy a 24, 48 or 72 hour ticket.

If however, you just plan to go to Burano, a return trip to costs 15 Euro, which is expensive….but this is Venice!

A Spring Day Trip to Alpe di Siusi in the Dolomites, Italy

A Spring Day Trip to Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)

ike wildflowers you’ve been to places others never heard of and you’ve bloomed in places no one speaks of…
– f a s c i n i t y

When I think about the fact that I only spent 2 days in the Dolomites, I instantly regret it.  And to think, I was about to cut this segment out of my trip entirely thinking I didn’t have enough time.  What a gigantic mistake THAT would have been!

There is so much to explore in the Dolomites region alone, that you would need at least two weeks to see and experience a significant portion of it.  In my short stay, I only had the opportunity to visit two places.

In my last post about this region, I brought you Lago di Braies, but I have to honestly say that Alpe di Siusi was the highlight of my entire trip to Europe.  I have never seen a natural landscape look so beautiful, so perfect and idyllic.   It’s sheer majesty, expanse and beauty almost seems otherworldly, powerful and transcendent.  You can’t help but stop, find a place amongst the wildflowers and just soak up the surroundings and sounds.  Having the place all to myself was also an added bonus – how did I get so lucky?

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Langkofel Group on a cloudy day in Spring

Geology – How Was Seiser Alm Created?

find geology particularly fascinating – especially when it comes to unique landmarks. So, if I asked you how the Dolomites were formed, what would you guess?

A volcano explosion? Maybe an earthquake?  If you guessed either of those, you’d be

wrong! The area was in fact a giant coral reef that began forming around 250 million years ago in the Thetys Ocean.  The rocks, originally limestone, accumulated so much pressure they transformed into Dolomite. When the sea retreated, the rock was open to the elements and sandstone sedimentation.   Over time, the sandstone eroded more easily than the dolomite, creating the jagged rock formations we see today.

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Langkofel / Sassolungo Group Panorama

The Legends of Alpe di Suisi / Seiser Alm

f you’ve read my Lago di Braies post, you’ll know this area is extremely rich in it’s folklore – folklore that is the kind found in fairytales. There are the Gannes – spirits of the springs, whose water abilities help to cure all kinds of ailments, salvans – wild dwarves who are followers of King Laurin, giants and of course, witches & warlocks.  It’s really not hard to feel the otherworldly magic when you’re here.

While this area is home to thousands of legends, I’ll go into detail on the legends behind the two main peaks in the area: the Sassolungo/Langkofel Group and the Sciliar Massif.

As it was known, Sassolungo, a local thief in the area, had a particular penchant for stealing chickens from his neighbouring farmers.  Whenever they complained, Sassolungo was always prepared with an excuse, blaming it on the local foxes or eagles.  Unable to get him to confess, the farmers decided the only way to make this problem stop was to catch Sassolungo in the act.  The next time Sassolungo tried to steal a chicken he was caught and called up to testify before the giant’s high court.  Sassolungo’s pleas of innocence fell on deaf ears and as soon as the giants delivered their sentence, the ground beneath Sassolungo broke apart and he began to sink into the ground.  In attempts to break freak, Sassolungo reached up with his hand

into the sky, but it was too late.  Today the only existence of Sassolungo on Earth are his 5 fingers, reaching toward the sky, forming the Sassolungo peaks.

While not everyone knows the legend of the Sassolungo peaks, one legend everyone is familiar with is that of the Sciliar Witches.  That’s right, witches from near and far would come flying on their broomsticks to meet on the ridge of the Sciliar.  How else would you explain the mysterious thunder storms that only seem to hover around the Sciliar Massif?  It must be the work of witches.

Historically, the ‘witches’ were local women who used herbs to cure illnesses and carried out rituals promoting a good harvest.  However with the growth of Christianity during the middle ages, witchcraft became seen as satanic worship. As a result, it is said that 9 women were sentenced to death for being witches and weather makers in the area.

Only one witch named Martha was a good witch, especially with children and nature.  She is even known to be able to turn herself into a squirrel and is the most famous witch in the area.  It is important to know, that these myths and legends are still alive today and you can even go on tours with a Witch named Martha…who knows, maybe she’s the same one from the legends!

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Langkofel / Sassolungo Peaks

Langkofel / Sassolungo Peaks

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Sciliar Massif / Schlern

Sciliar Massif. Picture credit: www.suedtirol.info

Things to See & Do

ith so many things to do in Seiser Alm/Alpe di Siusi, and a great deal more in the Dolomites, a day trip really isn’t enough.  So if you’re reading this and wondering how long to spend here, yes add in as many extra days as your itinerary will allow!  Regardless of how many days you can spend here, making the most of your time is important.  So here is a list of things you can do in the area – pick and chose the sights and activities that suit you best.

How to Use This Map: The map below is an interactive map you can use to find the locations mentioned in this blog post.  To use the map, click the icon in the top left-hand corner to pop open the navigation bar.  Here you can click on each location to navigate to it.

Take Amazing Photos

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Langkofel Group

eing a lover of photography, I spent my time here doing just that.  It seems that everywhere you look is another stunning photograph and I found myself completely lost in the moment.  I know you’re probably thinking two things 1. How is there nobody around in the photos? 2. Where is this location?

To answer your questions, I absolutely do not know how I got so lucky with not having anyone in the area when I arrived.  I did take these photos after 5PM and it was a cloudy day that suggested rain was coming.  I also visited in early June which is technically still the shoulder season.  Over my time capturing photos I saw one other photographer, who set up further up on the hill behind me and a group of hikers.  Other than that, there was no one. And it was perfect!

Finding the location was more of a challenge.  I had seen this exact view online prior to visiting, but I couldn’t find anyone that had mentioned an exact geo-location. So I basically took a giant stab in the dark and was so stocked when I actually found it.

While you can hike to this location, I actually drove here – but be careful, I shared my location with another photographer I met on my journey and he ended up getting a parking ticket :S  Either I got lucky, or he got incredibly unlucky.

Without knowing the rules too precisely, the main town of Seiser Alm, Compaccio/Compatsch is closed to traffic between 9AM – 5PM.  I arrived after this time, so this might also be why I didn’t have any problems with parking tickets.  You can read more about the traffic regulation rules here.

Find this photography location at Location 1 on the interactive map.

Hike To The Mysterious Witches Benches

t’s no guessing that this beautiful area is home to some amazing hikes.  In fact, there are a total of 43 hikes in the area, all with varying difficulties and durations.  For a list of all hikes and details, please see here.

However the most famous hike is to the summit of the Puflatsch / Bullaccia where you’ll find odd-shaped rock formations that look like armchairs.  These are known as the Witches Benches and it is here that the witches would sit of an evening to dance and enjoy the view of the Val Gardena and villages below.

This trail is suitable for families (no strollers) and you’ll be rewarded with beautiful panoramic views of the villages Castelrotto and Laion.  There’s also a place to eat on the hiking trail if any little ones start getting restless.

Find this location at Location 2 on the interactive map.

This map has very clear labelling of all the peaks in the surroudning area and hiking trails
Credit to: ritterhof.com

Climb The Dolomite Peaks

Climbing fans, there’s something special for you too.  The area hosts 4 fixed rope routes, suitable for beginners and expert climbers.   For more details on the routes, please see here.

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Langkofel Group on a cloudy day in Spring

Explore The Nearby Villages

he Seiser Alm / Alpe di Siusi holiday area is home to 4 historic villages which you can explore: Castelrotto, Fie allo Sciliar, Siusi allo Sciliar and Tiers al Catinaccio.  These villages are known for their historic traditions still practiced today and their amazing cuisine. Read below for a little info on each village:

Castelrotto / Kastelruth:

Being the largest of the villages near Seiser Alm, Castelrotto/Kastelruth is a picturesque village with a historic town centre.   Castelrotto is know for it’s beautiful architecture showcased through the village’s Baroque Church Tower and Classical Parish Church.  The most wonderful experience of this village are its historic traditions which have been passed down from generation to generation and are still practiced today.

Find this location at Location 3 on the interactive map.

 

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Siusi allo Sciliar / Seis am Schlern / Seis

This village lies at the foot of the legendary Sciliar/Schlern Massif and is known as the door to the Dolomites.  Out of the four surrounding villages, this one is very close to Seiser Alm/ Alpe di Siusi and is the only village with a direct cable car to the plateau.

Siusi allo Sciliar is home to numerous themed trails such as the Geologist’s trail, where you can explore 270 million years of the Earth’s history through the rock layers of the Rio Freddo /Frötschbach.  Or travel in the footsteps of poet and Knight Oswald von Wolkenstein and discover the ruins of Castelvecchio (Oswald’s home) and Castel Salego.  Or if food is more your thing, the mushroom trail will take you through the Laranza forest, home to various mushrooms such as the boletus, chanterelle, fly agaric and more.  Information boards along the way, will have a mushroom connoisseur of you by the end of the trail!

Find Seis at Location 6 on the interactive map, Castelvecchio at Location 7 and Castel Salego at Location 8.

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Town of Siusi Allo Sciliar

Picture credit: www.seiseralm.it

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Castelvecchio Ruins

Ruins of Castelvecchio. Picture credit: www.sentres.com
Fiè allo Sciliar / Völs am Schlern

For travellers looking for a health retreat try Fiè allo Sciliar.  Known as the home of the hay bath, this village has become somewhat of a health resort. So what exactly is a hay bath?  A tradition held for over 110 years, a hay bath involves being wrapped in healing herbs cut exclusively from the unfertilised meadows of Seiser Alm / Alpe di Siusi.  These herbs and grasses often include a mix of thyme, anica, cinquefoil and gentian.  The secret is being wrapped in these herbs at temperatures of 40 – 50 degrees where sweating and breathing in the alpine herbs helps to purge to body and creates immuno-stimulating effects.

Now, I know we’re focusing on Spring time, but Fiè allo Sciliar is also known for its food.  If you visit in October, you’ll be invited to participate in the culinary festival of Völser Kuchlkastl, which basically means enjoying a range of South Tyrolean dishes such as “Brennsuppe” (gruel), buckwheat noodles and mutton, alpine herbs, local mushrooms and plenty of other natural ingredients.  Find out more here.

Finally, a visit to Castel Presule / Schloss Prösels will have you discovering the history of the witch trials that took place here 500 years ago.  With a history that dates back to 1279, Castel Presule was opened to the public in 1982 and now offers guided tours. Inside you’ll find a museum with weapons, paintings and drawings.  Until recently, the castle was only open for viewing in spring/summer, but is now available to visit all year round.

Admission Costs: Adults 9 Euros & Children 6+ 5 Euros.  Free entry with Museumcard of Museummobile Card and for children under 6.

How to get there:  Catch bus 176 (Siusi – Fiè allo Sciliar) to the castle complex or enjoy a 2 hour walk from Fiè allo Sciliar via the hamlet Umes to Castel Presule.

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Castel Presule located in Fiè allo Sciliar

Castel Presule. Image Credit: Hannahelia.com

The famous Hay Baths. Image credit: www.thecut.com
Tiers am Rosengarten / Tiers al Catinaccio

The last of the villages is Tiers located at the foot of the famous Rosengarten / Gruppa del Catinaccio. The Rosengarten is a massif known for its pink glow at sunset (alpenglow).  It is famous in the folklore legends of King Laurin and his rose garden, used to explain the phenomenon of Alpenglow.

Because of it’s beautiful location in the Schlern – Rosengarten Nature Park, it is a stunning location for numerous hikes, climbs and mountain biking routes.

Find Tiers at Location 9 on the interactive map

 

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Swim in One Of Italy's Cleanest Lakes

Laghetto di Fiè /Völser Weiher Lake is classed as one of the cleanest lakes in Italy by the Legambiente, Italy’s biggest environmental protection organisation.  Of the eight swimmable lakes in the Dolomites regions, Laghetto di Fiè boats an intact ecosystem, outstanding water quality and a beautiful view of the Sciliar/Schlern, making it a popular destination for swimmers.

Find Lake Fiè at Location 10 on the interactive map

Discover South Tyrol's prettiest Alpine houses

Since you’ve just come from enjoying a dip in the gorgeous Fiè Lake, if you continue your walk along trail #1 you’ll reach South Tyrol’s prettiest Alpine Hut, Malga Tuff.  Continuing further on, you’ll reach Hofer Alpl an alpine restaurant and inn.  From Hofer Alpl’s sun terrace, you’ll enjoy a breathtaking view of the surrounding villages and alps: Trentino mountain region, Mount Cevedale, Gruppo di Tessa / Texelgruppe National Park and Ötztal Alps /Alpi Venoste.

Find Malga Tuff and Hofer Alpl at Location 11 & 12 respectively on the interactive map.

Paragliding

If you think the landscape is beautiful from the ground, imagine seeing it from the sky!  Paragliding in the Dolomites is perfect for experienced and new paragliders.  From the Spitzbühl launch site – known for its ideal conditions and thermal currents – fly close to the Sciliar solo or in tandem with an experienced paragliding pilot.  For those flying with an experienced pilot, all flying equipment will be provided.

How To Get There

Alpe di Siuis/Seiser Alm is an alpine plataeu located in the Sciliar-Catinaccio/Schlern-Rosengarten National Park in the South Tyrolean Dolomites in Italy.

GETTING TO THE DOLOMITES REGION – CLOSEST AIRPORTS

There is no direct flight to the Dolomites region, so the closest airports in Italy are Verona, Venice Marco Polo & Treviso and Milan.  In Austria, the closest airport is Innsbruck with Munich being the closest in Germany.  From here you can drive or take public transport to Seiser Alm/Alpe di Siusi.

Car

As you know, car is my preferred option for getting around when travelling, so I drove from Venice Marco Polo airport to the dolomites region.  It was a really easy drive, despite having to figure our how to pay for the toll roads on the route!  Going direct from Venice Marco Polo Airport is a 3.5 hour drive.

After my time in Seiser Alm, I planned to visit Lago di Braies.  The drive from Seiser Alm to Lago di Braies was approximately 1 hour and 45 mins and GoogleMaps took me through the little mountain roads, which were absolutely beautiful!! A gorgeous drive.

Train

Bolzano, the capital of South Tyrol, is located on one of the main European railway routes and has direct public transport to Seiser Alm/Alpe di Siusi.  This station can be easily reached from Munich (Germany) and Innsbruck (Austria) as well as from Verona, Rome, Venice and Milan in Italy.

Bus

From Bolzano, Bressanone and Chiusa stations you can find direct bus links to Seiser Alm & nearby villages.  Below I’ve included a map of the bus routes and a link to download the timetables for each route.

It is important to note that the transport system in this area is quite unique.  What I love about the Dolomites, is their focus on preserving the natural environment by offering a great public transport system.  While you may choose to take a car to the destination, once you’re in the area, public transport is a smarter and cheaper choice – especially Seiser Alm is car free between 9AM and 5PM.  Depending on when you’re visiting and the activities you plan on doing, Alpe di Siusi offers different types of passes:

Holiday Area Live Card

  • This card is free of charge and is provided by accomodation providers in Castelrotto, Siusi, Fie allo Sciliar and Tiers.
  • Provides various discounts on chairlifts and transportation cards
  • Provides single ticket access to all types of public transport.
  • Read more info here.

Combi Card – 3, 7 or 14 days:

  • Unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway and the Seiser Alm Express (bus route 10)
  • Unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (bus routes 2, 3, 3A, 4, 5, 13 and 15) around the Alpe di Siusi, the Almbus (bus route 11) and the Bus Piz (bus route 14).
  • More info here.

Seiser Alm Card Gold (Valid for 7 days)

  • Unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Express (bus route 10)
  • Unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (bus routes 2, 3, 3A, 4, 5, 13 and 15) around the Seiser Alm, the Almbus (bus route 11) and the Bus Piz (bus route 14)
  • Unrestricted use of the Bullaccia Aerial Cableway, the Aerial Lifts Spitzbühl, Panorama, Florian (Alpe di Siusi) and Marinzen (Castelrotto)

Mobilcard

  • Unrestricted use of the local public transport.

Dolomiti SuperSummer Card

  • Card with access to lifts across the Dolomites.
  • More info here.

Read more about getting around in summer here.

Winter – Additional Cards

  • Ski pass: Great for those who plan to spend most of their time skiiing or snowboarding.
  • Nordic Pass: Best for those who plan to spend their time cross-country skiing. The Nordic pass allows you to use the cross-country skiing courses as many times as you like for free. Without the pass it costs 6 euro for a day ticket, 30 euro for a weekly ticket and 70 euro for a season. The pass includes unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (bus routes 2, 3, 3A, 4, 5, 13 and 15) around the Seiser Alm and the Almbus (bus route 11).
  • You can find more information about these passes/cards here on page 8 & 9.

You can download the timetables for each route here. See page 12 onwards.

Some information on the buss routes:

Shuttle Buses (Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 4, 5 and 15)

  • Accepts the following tickets: Combi Card, Seiser Alm Card Gold, Nordic Pass, Mobilcard and all tickets of the Public Transport Services Alto Adige/Südtirol.
  • If you have decided not to purchase one of the above tickets, you can also buy tickets from the Automatic Ticket Distribution Machines.  One day tickets are also available for purchase at your accomodation, information office of Siusi and the Alpin Sports Company in Castelrotto. You can’t buy tickets on the shuttle buses:
    • One day ticket: 1.50 euro
    • 3 day ticket: 3 euro
    • 7 day ticket: 5 euro

Public Transport Buses (Routes 170, 171, 176, 177 and 185)

  • Tickets for the shuttle buses (1-day, 3-day, 7-day, Combi Card, Nordic Pass and Seiser Alm Card Gold) are not valid on these buses.  You will need to purchase these separately.
  • Mobilcard Südtirol/Alto Adige is valid on all public services.
  • Tickets can be purchased on the bus

Seiser Alm Express (Route 10)

  • Combi Card, Seiser Alm Card Gold, and Nordic Pass are valid with this service.  All other tickets and Mobilcard are not.
  • Tickets can be purchased on the bus
  • Round trip tickets cost 17 euro.

Almbus (Route 11)

  • Only valid with Combi Card, Seiser Alm Card Gold and Nordic Pass are valid with this service.  All other tickets and Mobilcard are not.
  • Tickets can be purchsed on the bus for at Automatic Ticket machines at Alpe di Siusi.
  • Tickets cost:
    • One way – 2 euro
    • day ticket – 4 euro

Almbus (Route 12)

  • No passes are valid for this bus, you must purchase a ticket.
  • Tickets can be purchased on the bus for at Automatic Ticket machines in Saltria.
  • Tickets cost:
    • One way – 3.50 euro
    • day ticket – 6 euro

Map

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm: Map of the area
I found this map very useful in helping to piece together where everything is. In it, you can clearly see where Val Gardena is in relation to Seiser Alm as well as the significant landmarks. Credit to: Mappery.com

Our TOP PlACES TO STAY

As access to Seiser Alm is car-free during the hours of 9am – 5pm, you want to ensure you’re staying somewhere where access to Compatsch (main village on Seiser Alm) is easy.  Ideally, you would want to stay in Seis (Siusi allo Sciliar) Castelrotto or Saltria where the direct cable car or buses to Compatsch / Compaccio are available.  Staying outside of these areas is fine too, but it will mean additional transfers may be required before you’re able to reach Alpe di Siusi.  See below for a list of recommended places they are listed from cheapest to most expensive:

  • Residence Antares – Located in Selva di Val Gardena, it is a 10 min drive to Ortisei, where bus connections are available to Alpe di Siusi.
  • Appartmenthotel Residence Elvis – Located in Ortisei where bus connections to Alpe di Siusi are available.
  • Villa Rier – Located just outside Seis.  To get to town centre and Alpe di Siusi cable car, it is a 4 minute drive or 20 minute walk.
  • Hotel Schmung – Excellent location on Alpe di Siusi, very close to Compatsch (15 minute walk).
  • Schwarzer Adler – Located in Seis, the shuttle bus to Alpe di Siusi stops outside hotel.
  • Hotel Saltria – Located on Alpe di Siusi at Saltria.  There is a direct bus from Saltria to Compatsch.

Find more hotels in Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm here.

Our Recommended Activities

  • The Heart of the Dolomites: Private Full-Day Tour by Car: From Bolzano explore the Isarco Valley – Pusteria Valley – Lago di Braies (I went here and highly recommend!) – Misurina Lake with views of the 3 Peaks of Lavaredo – Cortina d ’Ampezzo, then back to Bolzano via Great Dolomites Road.
  • Great Dolomites Day Tour: From Bolzano explore the Ega Valley – Lake Carezza – Costalunga Pass – Fassa Valley – Vigo di Fassa – Canazei – Sella massif – Pordoi Pass – enjoy a cable car to Sass Pordoi – Gardena Valley – Ortisei, then back to Bolzano
  • Bressanone and Funes Valley Guided Tour: From Bolzano explore Bressanone – Novacella Abbey – Funes Valley, then back to Bolzano
  • Trekking in the Dolomites: From Bolzano explore the Isarco Valley and Pusteria Valley – Misurina Lake with view of the 3 Peaks of Lavaredo – Auronzo Refuge, then enjoy a circular hike around the Three Peaks of Lavaredo and hike the great Dolomites Road back to Bolzano.
  • Dolomites Full Day Excursion: This tour combines parts of the Great Dolomites Day Tour and the Trekking in the Dolomites tour, with stops at local vineyards. Pricing is for a group of 6 people.

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if you only had ONE day to see alpe di siusi, where would you go?

If you have any questions feel free to ask in the comments below!

The Ultimate Lago di Braies Travel Guide

Italy - Lago Di Braies

 

As she plunged into the water
Crystal clear and deep
She realised that all her secrets
The fish would surely keep
Below the water’s surface
Her eyes open wide

In this underwater world
Her thoughts she wouldn’t have to hide
As she danced under the water
Her precious heart released its sheathe
In this palace below a sheet of glass
She could finally breathe…

By H.C.

 

Welcome to the Kingdom of the Fanes

 

For a place that looks like a fairytale with its crystal clear, blue-green waters and a stunning backdrop of the Croda del Becco, it’s only fitting that it comes with its own mythological legend right?  In fact the whole of the Dolomites is home to hundreds of stories and legends, but Lago Di Braies or Pragser Wildsee, is home to one of the most well known legends in the area: The Kingdom of the Fanes.

Lago Di Braies is one of the largest lakes in the Dolomites region and a UNESCO Heritage Site.  Considered one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, it’s not hard to imagine elves, faes, dwarves or an ancient kingdom once residing here.

Read on for your ultimate guide and find out why you should add the ‘Pearl of the Dolomite Lakes’ to your Italian travel itinerary! 

Italy - Lago Di Braies

The Legend of Lago Di Braies

 

Long ago, the area that is now the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature park, was home to a peaceful Kingdom in which its people were allied with marmots (a large native squirrel-type animal).  The Queen of the Fanes decided to marry a foreign king, who, craving power, took control of the kingdom.

Eager to expand his kingdom, the king turned his daughter, Dolasilla, into a powerful warrior.  In return for helping the dwarves, Dolasilla was gifted with invincible armour and unfailing arrows.  They warn her however, that the armour’s powers would disappear if she were to ever marry. After many conquests and expanding her kingdom, Dolasilla meets Ey de Net, an enemy warrior and the two fall in love. They decide to marry.

Fearing the end of his kingdom, the king opposes the marriage and betrays Dolasilla by selling her and his people to the enemy kingdom, in return for the entrance to the legendary land of plenty “Aurona”.  The king flees, but Dolasilla fights to save her people and is killed in battle.  The traitorous king is turned into stone and the surviving Fanes find shelter with the marmots living inside the mountains surrounding Lago Di Braies.  They continue to wait there until the silver trumpets sound, marking the rebirth of their Kingdom.

 

Italy - Lago Di Braies - Summer

 

Things to do

PLEASE NOTE: Lago di Braies is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, please do not litter or destroy nature.  Take all waste with you!

How to Use This Map: The map below is an interactive map you can use to find your preferred location.  To use the map, click the icon in the top left hand corner to slide open the navigation bar.  Here you can click on each location to navigate to it.

 

1. Go Hiking

If you’re an early riser like me and found yourself at Lago di Braies around 6am, then a morning hike might be just the idea for you – especially since a lot of the main activities don’t open until 10am.  The area is pretty much empty at this time so it’s the best time to skip the crowds and enjoy the scenic beauty in peace and quiet and…all to yourself!  The best kind of experience right?

The most easiest and well known hike is the route around the lake, which is suitable for adults and children over 7.  It is recommended to walk the route clockwise, finishing at the chapel for a slightly easier experience. The route takes you beneath a mountain, up and down a large amount of stairs and it does get quite high at times.  There is a wooden railing along some parts of the track as well.

Time to complete: 1.5 – 2 hours

Along the way, you will see paths diverging off – that’s because there are actually several hikes you can do from Lago Di Braies and a total of 34 hikes in the Braies valley all of varying difficulty. See below for a list of hikes and routes taken from the travel brochures I accumulated on my trip.

Italy - Lago Di Braies - Hiking Trails
Route Difficulty: Easy | Medium | Hard

Italy - Lago Di Braies - Hiking Trails

Italy - Lago Di Braies
During my walk around the lake!

 

2. Go Climbing

Another activity open at all hours is rock climbing.  Around Lago Di Braies, there are two main climbs, one is a fixed rope route and the other one is a climbing crag.

Fixed Rope Route (Via Ferrata) (8)
  • Difficulty: ★★
  • Walking Time: 6 hours
  • Level End Point: 2542m
  • Starting Point: Lago Di Braies
  • Descent Details:  Hike tail 61 to the Forcella di Braies/ Pragser Furkel gap and then continue onwards back to Lago Di Braies.
  • Description: This is a short, non difficult fixed rope route.  The route is in an isolated area with long rising and falling sections.  Good orientation skills required.
Climbing Crag (h)
  • Orientation: SW
  • Starting Point: Lago Di Braies Car Park
  • Approach time to the Climbing Crags: 30min walk
  • Family friendly
Italy - Lago Di Braies - Climbing Trails
Climbing tails near Lago Di Braies. (8) Via Ferratta trail and (H) Climbing Crag

 

3. Have a Picnic

With limited restaurants in the area and such a gorgeous setting, a day out in Lago Di Braies is the perfect excuse for a picnic!!  As you walk around the lake, you’ll notice a few picnic tables and sandbanks perfect for setting up a picnic and enjoying the sunshine!

 

4. Rent a boat and row in the lake

According to legend, the only way to reach the Fanes underground realm was to sail across Lago Di Braies by boat to the base of the Croda del Becco.

In fact, up until 100 years ago, the only way to reach the lake’s Southern shores was by boat.  Today, you can hire a traditional wooden row boat and relive the magical legends of the lake yourself.  If hiking isn’t your thing, then this is a fantastic way to experience the beauty of the area.

Boats are available to hire from June to September from 10am – 5pm every day.  They cost €15.00 for 1/2 an hour and €25.00 for 1 hour.

Italy - Lago Di Braies

 

5. Swimming & Fishing

These are two activities I did not know you could do at Lago Di Braies, but according to the official site you can!  Chill out in the sunshine and take your chances with a bit of fishing or, if you’re game enough, take a dive in the icy cold alpine water…I’d rather stick to the hiking and photography please.

 

6. Take Instagram worthy photos

This place is picture perfect for Instagram photos.  No matter which angle, sunshine or clouds, your photos will look stunning.  In fact I can only think of one thing that is likely to ruin your photos. People. A lot of them.  That’s right, Lago Di Braies gets extremely crowded and is a popular destination for numerous tour buses, tourists and locals.

The crowds are said to start from 9:30am, and knowing this I set out to arrive early.  I got to Lago Di Braies just after 6am which was made easy because I was literally staying in a hotel that was around 5 mins drive down the road (details below).  Arriving before 7am also meant cheap parking at only 2 euro!

Surprisingly, there were still a few people in the area at this time, mostly photographers, but also those looking to enjoy an early morning walk.  It was by no means crowded and I had the opportunity to take my time with photos and really enjoy it.

The only downside with arriving so early was that the Boat House was closed, so I missed out on taking some iconic photos of the boat house steps that lead down into the water and some shots from inside a boat.  However if you’re able to spend a day here, arriving early leaves enough time to capture photos, hike around the lake without the crowds and be back in time to catch a boat ride when they open at 10am!

Italy - Lago Di BraiesItaly - Lago Di Braies

5. Visit Lago Di Braies Chapel

There’s something so beautiful about Swiss style churches – and yes I know that we are in Italy, but the churches here are of the same style as in Switzerland.  This chapel was built in the first years of the 20th century and consecrated in 1904 to Our Lady of Sorrows.  It now belongs to Hotel Lago Di Braies and has important ties to World War II, but I’ll let you discover those for yourself ;)

Please note that the church is only able to be visited in Summer.

Italy - Lago Di Braies Chapel

 

When to Visit

 

Lago Di Braies is stunning all year round, but some seasons have a few more perks than others.  Visiting in summer gives you access to the traditional row boats and the chapel, both you cannot experience outside of the summer months.

I visited on June 12th and was happy to see some snow still left on the Croda del Becco.  I definitely think a touch of snow adds to the magic of the place!

 

Winter

 

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FYI – In the middle of winter, the lake is often frozen over and covered in snow.  Therefore you won’t be able to see the lake, the area will look completely white.

Summer

 

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Autumn

 

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Spring/Early Summer

 

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How to get there

 

Lago Di Braies is located in the Braies valley in the South Tyrolean Dolomites in Italy.

Getting to the Dolomites Region – Closest Airports

There is no direct flight to the Dolomites region, so the closest airports in Italy are Verona, Venice Marco Polo and Venice Treviso.  In Austria, the closest airports are Innsbruck, Salzburg and Klaenfurt with Munich being the closest in Germany.  From here you can easily drive, catch public transport or take a guided tour to Lago Di Braies.

Closest Airports to the Dolomites/Lago Di Braies
Closest Airports to the Dolomites/Lago Di Braies

 

Hire a Car

My preferred option when travelling not only because it’s comfortable, but it gives you a whole heap of freedom, it’s reliable and most importantly, it saves time.  Having a car also means you can beat the crowds! If you’re travelling in peak season, you could get away without having a car because public transport is frequent and reliable, but if you’re visiting outside of peak season, I definitely recommend hiring a car.

Driving in this beautiful region was an absolutely wonderful experience. It is so stunning.  I hired a car from Venice Marco Polo Airport and the drive was simple.  There are tolls on this route and working out how to pay for them on the fly was slightly difficult, but I was able to figure it out in the end.

I used GoogleMaps to navigate and simply typed in “Lago Di Braies” as the destination, or you could use the map I’ve created earlier in this post and navigate to one of the parking areas instead.

Here’s how long the drive takes from various destinations:

  • From Venice: Just under a 3 hour drive taking the A27 and SS51
  • From Verona: 3 hour drive
  • From Innsbruck: 2 hours drive
  • From Brunico: 35 minutes drive taking the SS49

 

Public Transport

From Venice Airport, there is a direct “FlixBus” to Dobbiaco, where the central bus station in the Dolomites is located.  Here you can catch a local bus 442 (purple line on map below) directly to Lago Di Braies. The total journey will take around 4.5 hours.

The 442 also passes Dobbiaco and Villabassa Stations, so if you’re coming by train, you can transfer from either to get to Lago Di Braies.  Villabassa Station may be a quicker alternative if travelling by train from the Brunico direction (Verona, Innsbruck or Munich airports).

Bus 442 roughly comes every 30mins in peak season and costs 3 euro per person.  Children under 6 ride free and furry friends are welcome. This site in general is great for finding your way around the Dolomites region by bus: http://www.sii.bz.it/en and also has some phone numbers you can contact if you have any problems.

Download 442 Timetable

If you have downloaded the timetable, here’s what the following symbols mean:

(1) Services running from 24.6 to 16.9 only

(7) Service not running on Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays from 3.4

(S) Service running on school days only

(X) Service running on weekends only

(C) Services running from 24.12 to 2.4 only

(Half coloured square) Services run on weekdays except Saturday.

 

Shuttle Service

If you prefer, there is also a shuttle service from Monguelfo train station directly to the lake. This costs 3 euro pp, children under 6 ride free and furry friends are welcome.

Dolomites Bus Network Map
Dolomites Bus Network Map. You can see bus 442 to Lago Di Braies is coloured in purple.
Dolomite Train Timetable
Dolomite Train Timetable

 

LAGO DI BRAIES ACCOMODATION

 

I stayed at Albergo Steinerhof which I enjoyed.  The inn also has it’s own restaurant where you can buy lunch or dinner. Best of all, Albergo Steinerhof is located only 5 mins drive from Lago Di Braies.  My stay included free breakfast which I thought was impressive (image below).  There was a selection of colds meats, cheese, bread, croissants, jams and other spreads, cereals and fruits. There was also free wifi.

The lady who runs the hotel is lovely.  Although she doesn’t speak English, she tries her best to understand and communicate with you.

Italy - Lago Di Braies - Hotel Albergo Steinerhof
Photo from booking.com

Italy - Lago Di Braies - Hotel Albergo Steinerhof

 

GENERAL INFO

PRICE

  • Free entry to the Lago Di Braies
  • Paid carpark –  Before 7am 2 euros, 7-5pm 6-8 euro, after 5pm 4 euro.  Parking is located very close to the lake, refer to image below for a visual reference.  The map earlier in this post provides a location reference to the parking.

OPENING HOURS

  • Open all year round

FACILITIES

  • Dogs and pets are allowed, but you must pick up after them.
  • Toilet facilities are available at the southern most part of the lake and inside Hotel Lago Di Braies.
  • Food at the site is limited, with the closest being available from Hotel Lago Di Braies.  It is recommended to bring your own food, or you can find a restaurant in a nearby town.
  • Lago Di Braies is stroller and disabled friendly when accessed via the carpark.  Hiking around the lake is not possible with strollers or people with limited walking ability as there are many steps and steep areas.
Hotel Lago Di Braies and Parking
Hotel Lago Di Braies, shot from one of the parking areas. You can see a parking sign to the right of this photo.
What’s the most beautiful lake you’ve visited?

If you have any questions feel free to ask in the comments below!