Feed your Soul at Tsukiji – the World’s Largest Fish Market
hile the rest of Tokyo sleeps, one place stirs awake and comes alive during the wee hours of the early morning.
Like bees to a hive, many flock to Tsukiji Fish Market – the largest wholesale seafood market in the world and epicenter for restaurants to source the crème de la crème of produce. Home to record-breaking bluefin tuna, high-quality ingredients and raved by culinary fans, no visit to Tokyo is complete without savoring the taste of the freshest and finest of seafood Japan has to offer. But Tsukiji Market is more than just a mere fishmonger market. From decadent seafood bowls, exquisite wagyu and even sweet treats such as ice cream and traditional daifuku, Tsukiji’s outer marketplace offers a variety of food choices that will excite your senses as you weave your way through each culinary corridor.
From here, we’ll expand your food appreciation and take you through the best foods to try at Tsukiji Market.
Seafood Lovers Galore
tasty seafood treat at every corner, seafood lovers will be spoiled for choice at Tsukiji!
Whether you dine in at a small sushi restaurant for their sushi-of-the-day omakase or get your hands slightly dirty with some good finger food from a friendly food vendor, there is no shortage of seafood eateries to choose from. For us, seeing the lavish displays of the seafood vendors with ready-to-eat dishes was the obvious choice to explore Tsukiji’s food scene.
From the display, visitors can select the seafood they want and the vendor will lightly grill or garnish raw dishes with sauce to eat on the spot. While eating at vendor shops there are a few things to remember:
It is generally frowned upon to eat while walking around the market since you can easily bump people when it’s crowded. To avoid spilling your appetising seafood dish on others, it is best to eat at the store where you bought it from.
Tsukiji Market does not have public bins as it’s the responsibility of store owners to dispose of any garbage. Once you have finished your food, you can either give the garbage to the store owner or throw it in the bin they provide.
In regards to food hygiene and concerns of potential food poisoning, many vendors keep their seafood fresh on beds of ice which helps regulate temperature control. Nevertheless, if you are worried about having a weak stomach, order from stores that are located under shaded areas rather than exposed to direct sunlight.
Whichever way you decide to dine, Tsukiji’s outer market will keep you entertained with over 300 shops and eateries to choose from. Here is just a small collection of the seafood we ate on our visit:
Huge fresh oysters served with soy sauce.
A5 graded wagyu beef sticks with sea urchin.
Fresh sea urchin.
Mixed sashimi plates of tuna, salmon, octopus, prawns, and scallop.
Scallop butter soy sauce freshly grilled at カキ小食堂.
Snow crab, King crab, lobster, and jumbo-sized prawn and scallop ready for grilling.
Gyudon and Offal Stew at Kitsuneya
long-time favourite of the locals, Kitsuneya was established in 1947. To this day, they are still cooking and dishing out some of the best gyudon beef bowls and stewed offal rice bowls in town.
Instantly recognisable by the large bubbling pot of reddish-brown stew simmering at the front of the small eatery, Kitsuneya is so popular that there are lines of hungry patrons waiting before the opening time of 6:30 AM!
Their signature dish is simmered offal stew (ホルモン) on rice and is the store’s
specialty that has been handed down for three generations. The recipe originated from the owner’s grandfather who was a geta shoe craftsman and regularly made the stew as a side dish for his sake.
With a taste and smell so distinct and one-of-a-kind, Kitsuneya’s humble stew rice bowls are morsels of homemade love. Their second popular dish, gyudon, is also beloved by many and is worth ordering with a side of stewed offal, just how the original creator enjoyed it.
hile eating sashimi or sushi you may have noticed that it’s usually accompanied by an egg dish called tamagoyaki.
This pairing of raw fish and egg omelette might seem an unlikely pair but traditionally, it played a role in sushi presentation to add a pop of bright colour to the seafood.
Originally, sushi chefs not only prepared and served fish but also made their own tamagoyaki for their establishment, however it has become more of a tradition in recent times. In fact, making the perfect tamagoyaki is still considered the markings
of a highly-skilled sushi chef as temperature control is needed to make the appearance of the tamagoyaki perfectly yellow and blemish-free.
At Tsukiji there are a handful of tamagoyaki stores selling their own take on the humble egg omelette, but Tsukiji Yamacho is the crowd favourite. Originally dedicated to only supplying to restaurants, they opened their operations to the general public after many requests and have a large following among the international crowd. For just 100 yen, these tasty omelettes on a skewer are made right in front of you and you can choose between sweet or savory.
Fresh Fruit and Strawberry Daifuku at Tsukiji Iroha
fter eating all that great grub, indulging in something sweet would be the perfect way to finish any meal.
Within the maze of the outer market, the odd cafe and dessert stand peeks through among the savory delights and the most recognisable is the colorful fruit display at Tsukiji Iroha.
The Tsukiji Iroha store comprises of three stands: one dedicated to fruity drinks like
banana juice, fruit jelly drinks, and shaved ice called 168 Banana, while the others specialise in the traditional Japanese sweet daifuku, fruit slices, and fruit skewers.
Though a simple fruit stick will set you back a whopping 1000 yen, the hefty price tags are not without reason. The fruits served at Tsukiji Iroha are the premium ranked variety graded on their perfection in appearance, taste, and size. Here, you can also find the famed white strawberry, Yubari King melon, and Shine Muscat grape just to name a few.
The best way to get to Tsukiji Outer Market is by train. For many, the beginning of Tsukiji Market is instantly recognisable by the Lawson convenience store and Jonathan Family Restaurant that act as the starting point before making your way through the outer market maze. Luckily, many of the subway station exits nearby lead to this starting point.
Here are multiple subway lines that you can take:
Toei Oedo Line
Using the Toei Oedo Line, get off at “Tsukijishijo Station” and it will be an easy one-minute walk from the station.
Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line
Using the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line, get off at “Tsukiji Station” and it will be an easy one-minute walk from the station. Alternatively, you can also take the Hibiya Line to “Higashi-Ginza Station” and Tsukiji Outer Market is a 3-minute walk away.
Toei Asakusa Line
Using the Toei Asakusa Line, get off at “Higashi-Ginza Station” and it will be a three-minute walk from the station
See Cute Chinchillas, Otters, and Hedgehogs In the Heart of Tokyo
f you enjoy being surrounded by furry cottontails and fluffy clouds that jump, hop, and wobble, a visit to Japan’s animal cafes will have you feeling like you have arrived at sweet, dreamy paradise.
In the early 2000s, Japan’s first cat cafes boomed from the desire of many to be able to connect with sweet animal companions. Tokyo’s numerous no-pet apartments left lonely city folks wishing to meet with something other than the daily grind of monotonous life after work.
Since then, the popularity of these animal cafes expanded and gave both animal lovers and the curious at heart a space to take some time out of their busy schedules and relax in the company of cuddly creatures. But not everyone’s ideal pet is the everyday cat and dog. What about the chance to imagine a pet that you usually wouldn’t be able to have?
Introducing HARRY HARAJUKU Terrace! A combination of a petting zoo, pet shop, and cafe where you’ll be able to enjoy the company of hedgehogs, chinchillas, rabbits, gophers, and even otters just waiting to get to know you at their rooftop store in the heart of Tokyo’s Harajuku neighborhood.
I mean, it’s not every day you get to encounter an otter out in the wild or outside a zoo setting, am I right?
Talyssa and I thought so and thus, we’ll share how to enjoy chin-chilling at this unique HARRY’s brand of animal cafe.
What to Do
alking inside HARRY HARAJUKU Terrace, you’ll notice chinchillas chilling quietly inside their roomy cages and bunnies hopping freely in their pens.
From this point, you have two options on how you can spend your time at the cafe. The first is the free option to look around and view the animals from afar as a casual visitor.
On the other hand, paying for an experience will allow you to do extra activities such as handling and feeding the animals which aren’t available on a regular visit. You can either book an experience on the day on-site or you can reserve ahead and book online.
The Outdoor Otter Enclosure
The Gopher Enclosure Inside
Playtime
epending on your chosen ticket plan, once you have entered the enclosure you will be seated and the staff will hand you the chosen animal for playtime.
For Talyssa and I, our first encounter was with the chinchillas – an animal that is actually banned in our homeland of Australia. So you can imagine how special it was to be able to see what these cute smiley hoppers were like!
During playtime, we sat on some comfy benches as the staff handled the chinchilla for us to hold. They placed the chinchilla in a basket for safety which we could put on our laps and instructed us how to hold our little fluffy cloud. Though these playtime sessions aren’t necessarily “playful” in nature and more “touch and hold” experiences, it was still very enjoyable. I was impressed that our new brush-tailed friend was very well behaved. Calm and cute, I can understand why many people have them as household pets.
After our time with our chinchilla came to an end, we proceeded to our final playtime friends – the otters!
Unfortunately, unlike the other animals, we couldn’t hold the otters as they were kept in an enclosure with a pool. Though, maybe it was for the best because they were such hyperactive little playmates! They loved to hide and play wrestle with each other it was incredibly adorable and entertaining to watch.
If you are lucky, there are holes throughout the clear enclosure for feeding and if you hold your hand near one, you might just get a high five from your new otter pal as he searches for a tasty treat. If you are interested in playing with the otters, you should definitely book a feeding plan in advance.
Feeding time
or a little bit extra, we definitely recommend the feeding plan if you are planning to book an experience at HARRY’s. The staff will give you special feed for each animal and show you how to feed them as well.
Though feeding the chinchillas was cute, the most exciting and cutest feeding session was definitely with the otters!
As we approached their enclosure, the otters would howl with excitement once they sensed food was coming and stuck out their little paws at the offered snack. Unexpectedly, Talyssa and I could not stop gushing and squealing over how cute it was to touch their paws. To describe the feeling, otter paws are very soft to the touch and because they are webbed, it’s almost like touching little velvet cotton balls. It was a brief but memorable moment and it’ll make your heart melt, too!
Enjoy your Complimentary Drink
s part of your plan, each ticket allows you to have one complimentary drink to enjoy with your visit.
Usually, animal cafes limit their choices to the standard tea or coffee but at HARRY HARAJUKU Terrace, their drink menu items are different. You not only get to enjoy these classic afternoon beverages but their vending machines also include hot soup for the winter! They also have other drink variations like strawberry au lait, honey lemon, and muscat grape juice!
Also to note, there is no food available on-site but HARRY cafe does allow you to bring your own food and drink (no alcohol is allowed of course) to consume at designated eating areas.
great place to detour for an afternoon, HARRY HARAJUKU Terrace is definitely worth the stop-over especially if you’re looking to come into personal contact with some of the cutest exotic animals you will ever meet outside a zoo.
I noticed the staff took very good care of their animals and the shop was incredibly clean and spotless. They also disinfected regularly and had hand sanitizer freely available for customers to ensure hygiene which I thought was very responsible.
All the staff we interacted with were very friendly and also spoke very good English that you could also make light conversation which was very refreshing.
Overall, our experience at HARRY’s HARAJUKU Terrace was not only a lot of fun but a fantastic side adventure to break up our busy travel schedule. So next time you’re in town, take a break and unwind with these incredible animals that we share our earth with.
f you wanted to get a taste of what feudal Japan might have looked like, the countryside of Takachiho in the Miyazaki prefecture comes pretty close. Largely untouched, the mountainous landscape is spectacularly scenic with small villages and terraced rice paddies scattered here and there. The rolling hills are covered with pine trees and the early morning mist creeps up between the valleys and catches on the mountainous peaks. As dawn begins to break, the sun rays peak through mountain silhouettes as sleepy villagers begin to wake.
I’d be lying if I didn’t say the place felt alive with shinto spirits.
In Takachiho, it’s really not hard to see what inspired the stories and supernatural spirits of Japanese folklore and mythology. While Shintoism seems far removed from most modern Japanese lifestyle, Takachiho is one of the few places where it is so openly and commonly practiced.
Here, we’ve come to marvel at one of the most renowned and uniquely beautiful spots in Kyushu. Descending into Takachiho Gorge, its ancient rock walls reach up to the heavens, showing off ribbed colonnade structures covered in sparkling moss. Stepping into a small rowing boat, we cross the barrier between reality and the spirit realm, enclosed by a canopy of green and orange coloured leaves. Ahead of us, the teal green water of the Gokase river snakes between the curves and bends of the gorge’s walls and flows underneath one of Japan’s top 100 waterfalls, the Manai falls.
As we drift down the waters of the Gokase river, we invite you on a mythical journey to discover the nostalgia of old Japan in Takachiho.
Takachiho Mythology
ne day, Amaterasu goddess of the sun, looked down upon the Earth from the heavens and wept at the chaos that consumed the land. To restore peace, she sent her grandson, Ninigi no Mokoto to govern the islands of Japan in her honour.
Into a mist covered Takachiho, Ninigi no Mikoto and a procession of deities descended from the heavens carrying three items: the jewel Yasakani no Magatama, the mirror Yata no Kagami and the sword kusanagi no Tsurugi. With him, Ninigi also brought rice and scattered it across the land.
Today, the Kushifuru Shrine near Takachiho Gorge is believed to be the spot where Ninigi and his procession of deities arrived in Japan. It is here on Earth that Ninigi established the Japanese Imperial Family and is the divine ancestor to Japan’s first emperor, Jimmu, Ninigi’s grandson. The three items Nigini brought to Earth with him also formed the Imperial Regalia of Japan.
In the 8th Century, two of Japan’s most ancient history books were published by the Emperor; the Kojiki and Nihonshoki. These books describe Japan’s creation as a continent, the foundation of Japan’s Imperial line and much more through a catalog of songs, myths, legends and oral traditions.
It is here in Takachiho’s misty valleys and mountainous peaks that many of the recorded legends play out across the landscape of Takachiho. Takachiho Gorge itself is also home to Japan’s creation myth where Izanagi and Izanami created the first Japanese island and brought the first source of spring water to the Earthly realm, in a natural well known as Ama Manai. This well is the source of the spring water that flows through the Manai Falls.
For most young Japanese people it seems as if the Shinto mythology that formed the core of their country’s spiritual origins has been lost to the fast paced and modern society we so commonly see today.
With such significant mythological ties, this is not the case in Takachiho. Compared to populated Japanese cities, life here seems to slow down and the native religion of Shintoism is alive, intimately interwoven and vibrantly celebrated among the community. It is both awe-inspiring and magical to behold and will illustrate a historical and spiritual side of Japan you may not be able to witness in most tourist frequented areas.
Locals praying at Takachiho Shrine
Izanagi and Izanami
Priest performing traditional ceremony at Takachiho Shrine
Things to Do At Takachiho Gorge
akachiho may be remote and rural but there’s a myriad of things to do and explore – with all places accesible by foot. What many might not realise is that a good majority of the most popular things to see and do in Takachiho are actually located within the Takachiho Gorge area. Below we share some of our favourite experiences at Takachiho Gorge:
Enjoy a Boat Ride Down Takachiho Gorge
hen it comes to enjoying the gorge you can do so in two ways; by foot or by boat. We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to explore the gorge by boat, but had been forewarned that the line for boats attracted a serious crowd with seriously longer wait times.
So, how do you avoid long wait times? You beat the queue and get there first by arriving at 7:30AM. Yes I know, sleep is a hard sacrifice while on holiday, but definitely a worthwhile one. Even though we were first in line, I can tell you that the line started forming only shortly after we arrived and the carpark was almost full when we parked just a bit earlier! It was clear that the late morning starts of the citizens of Tokyo do not apply in Takachiho! Get there early so that you don’t waste large chunks of the day waiting in line. If you’ve only got the day in Takachiho, this will give you time to explore more of the area.
Without an experienced row-boater between us, we jumped in our boat and clumsily fumbled with the oars. The rowing does take some time to get used to, but is a great experience.
As you row down the gorge, you can get up close and personal with the Manai falls – even rowing under it if you like – and also take a closer look at the colonnade structures of the gorge’s walls. It can be scary at times as a rookie rower – wall and boat collisions will and do happen, but the boats are sturdy enough that it makes it difficult to fall in. I don’t know what happens if you do fall in, or what, if anything, lurks beyond the depths of the Gosake river, but you are equipped with a life vest ensuring safety no matter what happens.
There is a time limit of 30minutes per boat ride – which actually goes pretty fast! You can also buy some food to feed the ducks, which we did! Rowing down the gorge and back, plus feeding the ducks, actually took us a little longer than 30 minutes, but the staff were really nice and didn’t charge us extra.
It costs 2000 yen to hire a boat and each boat can fit a maximum of 3 passengers. Boats cannot be pre-booked. Food for the ducks costs 200 yen. There are no facilities to hold your luggage, so leave it in your hotel, car or tour bus!
Takachiho boat ride rules.
Walk Along Takachiho Promenade
f roughing the waters of the gorge is too much for you, you can also enjoy the scenic beauty of the area from above by following the paved pathway that follows the edge of the gorge. The path offers stunning views all along, with some perfect postcard photo opportunities of the gorge and Manai falls.
Stroll the path for as long as you like, taking time to observe down into the gorge from the various bridges and viewpoints to get some really nice photos. It is along this walk that you’ll get the popular shots you see online of looking down into the gorge through a canopy of momiji leaves as well great viewpoints of Manai falls with boaters below. Continue walking and eventually you’ll arrive at Takachiho Shrine. The total length of the trail is about 1km (10mins).
Visiting in autumn we were expecting yellow and orange momiji leaves, but the leaves change colour here later than the rest of Japan – so keep that in mind if you’re hoping to catch autumn surroundings during your time at the gorge.
With that being said, summer’s green leaves are also delightful and the greenery enhances the gorge’s mystical atmosphere. In summer, the gorge is also illuminated in the evenings until 10PM.
Along the walk there are numerous points of interest such as Kihachi Rock – a 200 tonne rock said to be thrown by the god Kihachi as he challenged the irresponsible deity that ruled the village of Takachiho and Onokoro pond.
Take a Gander at Onokoro Pond
f I’m being fair, I can’t say that this pond is anything special to look at (sorry!) but it’s cultural significance is one that may tickle your fancy.
In the centre of this pond is a small island with a little shrine (known as onokorojima).
With Takachiho’s close association to Japan’s creation myths, it is said that this is the first Japanese island that the gods Izanagi and Izanami created. Because of its historical significance, each year during the spring festival of Takachiho shrine, a portable shrine circles around onokorojima three times – a ritual purification known as misogi.
Spring Festival celebrations in Onokoro Pond, Takachiho. Taken from Getty Images
Catch the Sunrise above a Sea of Clouds at Kunimigaoka
f you thought Takachiho wasn’t pretty enough, just wait until you visit Kunimigaoka (Country Gazing Hill) look out. Located a short drive up the mountain from Takachiho Gorge, this beautiful view overlooking the Takachiho countryside awaits. It’s stunning even during daytime, but the magic really comes alive at sunrise where a phenomenon known as ‘unkai ‘occurs between the months of September – late November.
Unkai translates into “Sea of clouds” and on days where there is a significant difference between the minimum and maximum temperatures, the beautiful Japanese fog and mist creates a sea of clouds that covers the entire valley. It literally looks like as if you are standing above the clouds. Definitely worth the early morning start.
Watch a Traditional Kagura Performance at Takachiho Shrine
agura is Japan’s earliest form of religious dance with deep ties to Shintoism. It is thought to have entertained the imperial courts and general public for over 1000 years.
Kagura reenacts the stories from classical Japanese mythology. Over time as the country lost touch with Shintoism the tradition wasn’t passed down through the generations, and today, it is really rare to see Kagura performed in urban areas. In fact, there are only 5 places in Japan that perform traditional Kagura regularly and Takachiho is one of them.
There are two ways you can engage in Kagura performances in Takachiho. The first is nightly Kagura Performances at Takachiho shrine – a shortened 4 act version of the 33 acts in Kagura.
The second is the all night Takachiho Yokagura Festival held on the 22nd and 23rd of November. For the entire night, the Takachiho community comes together to enjoy Kagura dancing, storytelling and local foods. At this festival, the full 33 acts of Kagura are reenacted across the entire night. Fascinated? Us too. Find out more about Kagura in Takachiho in our Blog Post: “See a Traditional Kagura Show in Takachiho”
What to Eat
hiho No Ie is a restaurant located at the heart of Takachiho Gorge that specialises in Nagashi Soumen or flowing noodles. How it works is somen noodles (thin white noodles, similar to soba) are dropped into a bamboo stalk cut in half to form a “chute” that is filled with flowing water. As the somen flows down the chute, you try to catch them with your chopsticks. These noodles are cold and like Soba, somen noodles are dipped in a dipping sauce before being eaten.
I don’t know about you, but there’s always one episode in an anime series where the school class goes on some summer holiday and one of the many activities they do is eat Nagashi Soumen – so i’ve always wanted to do it!
Despite being autumn, we could still enjoy the fun! It was especially cool to experience it for the first time in Takachiho, as it is thought the origins of the dish may lie here! Established in 1955, Chiho no Ie claims to be the birthplace of Nagashi soumen and still streams cool, fresh water from Tamadare Falls, as thought to be originally done.
We also ordered the hot beef soba noodles (absolutely delicious!) as well as the somen set meal with grilled fish. All very fresh, tasty and unique with foods I’d never had before.
Don’t worry! If you miss your noodles, you can collect them at the end.
Bamboo chute where the somen flows down.
Salted and grilled Amago (trout), Konyaku jelly, Rice Balls, tofu, salad, takana pickle.
Beef Soba
How to Get To Takachiho Gorge
From Kumamoto To Takachiho Bus Centre
From Kumamoto Airport, there are direct highway buses to the Takachiho Bus Centre operated by Kyushu Sanko Bus and Miyazaki Kotsu. Be mindful as there are only two buses scheduled per day. The whole trip will take around 2 hr 30 min and costs 2410 yen one way.
From Miyazaki To Takachiho Bus Centre
From Miyazaki Airport, you can take the JR Nichirin or Hyuga limited express train to Nobeoka Station and transfer to a number 71/72 Miyazaki Kanko bus to the Takachiho Bus Centre. The whole trip will take roughly 3 hr 30 min. The express train will take 80 minutes and costs 3000 yen while the bus trip will take 90 minutes and costs 1820 yen.
From Takachiho Bus Centre to Takachiho Gorge
It is possible to walk from Takachiho bus centre to Takachiho Gorge. The walk will take about 25 minutes in total. Taxi from Takachiho bus centre to the gorge will cost approximately 1200 yen and take 6 minutes.
There is a Takachiho Gorge Shuttle Bus service that operates during the busy season April – November only. This bus departs from Takachiho Bus Centre and will take you directly to the gorge for 100 yen. Please note that the schedule may change daily and it can be infrequent despite what the Takachiho Gorge shuttle bus timetable says. There are also public buses available from Takachiho Bus Centre to Takachiho Shrine, where it is a 10minute walk to Takachiho Gorge.
By car – Recommended
As you can tell, transportation in Takachiho is both infrequent and inconvenient due to its remote surroundings. Your best bet is to hire a rental car to get the most out of your trip. Not to mention the mountain drive is both scenic and beautiful especially during the autumn time! At Takachiho gorge, there are 3 carparks; Oshioi Parking for 500 yen, Araragi Parking for 300 yen and Ohashi Parking is free. See parking locations and more information.
The easiest way to rent a car is at the airport. If you are looking for a place, we hired our rental car through Nippon Rent-A-Car at Kumamoto Airport which was very easy and had great staff service.
tale as old as time, Kagura is a style of ancient dance performance reenacting classical Japanese myths of fearsome demons, mischievous yet ferocious gods, and tales of good versus evil.
Kagura is Japan’s earliest form of folk performing arts and has been practiced at Shinto shrines for over a millennium, entertaining the Imperial courts or at festivals. Though performing troupes specializing in Kagura have been decreasing due to modern times, it is still considered a living tradition with a deep spiritual connection to Shinto rituals set to the cycles of the agricultural calendar.
If you are keen to witness this dance of the gods throughout Japan many regional variations exist. Talyssa and I found ourselves in the rich scenic Miyazaki prefecture where the Kagura style at Takachiho is performed slower with the most popular location set within the grounds of Takachiho shrine – one of the spiritual power spots of the area.
Being a small country town, there are limited sources of English explanations about Takachiho’s Kagura but don’t let the language barrier deter you from experiencing one in person! Enjoying Kagura can appeal to all types of people since not a single word is spoken. Though, of course, having some background knowledge into the legends that surround each dance would make the performance that much more enjoyable.
Luckily through our experience, we’ll share with you all there is to know about the viewing of Kagura shows at Takachiho Shrine and maybe you’ll even have the chance to be part of the show!
Ema (wooden plaques for writing wishes) depicting Takachiho’s kagura at Takachiho Shrine.
Kagura in Takachiho
eing completely new to the world of classical Japanese theatre we weren’t sure what we were getting into. Little did we realize, seeing the art of Kagura performed here shares a special connection to Japanese mythology.
Takachiho is home to the Amano-Iwato cave, the cave where the goddess Amaterasu hid according to the legend. As a matter of fact, the cave and the Takamagahara pantheon – a site that is said to be the gathering spot for the other gods to discuss how to coax Amaterasu out of the holy cave – are both located in the Takachiho area near Amano Iwato Shrine.
The tale of Amano-Iwato, being one of the most important and well-known legends in Japan, is proudly celebrated as part of the town’s heritage. Takachiho has special Kagura night dances (yokagura) dedicated to retelling the legendary quarrel between the divine siblings as well as other deeds by the gods in a series of 33 parts.
These performances are held at various locations but predominantly at Amano Iwato Shrine and Takachiho Shrine on Saturday evenings from mid-November to mid-February. The main performance held on November 22nd to 23rd is called the Takachiho Yokagura Festival. It celebrates an 800-year-old tradition with a night full of dancing, storytelling, drumming, mask-wearing, and drinking shochu liquor made from potato, wheat, or rice. Best of all, it’s a free all-night event though you are expected to make an offering of money or shochu. For a culturally rich evening steeped in tradition and the hospitality of the local community, this sounds like a welcomed tradeoff.
For those traveling outside these months, you can still enjoy a shortened version of the epic tale at Takachiho Shrine throughout the year for just 700 yen.
The Takamagahara Pantheon – a key site in the Amano-Iwato legend.
hough we missed the opportunity to see a full performance of a night Kagura dance, we were able to enjoy the shortened show at Takachiho Shrine instead.
Purchasing a ticket was very simple and straightforward and the reception counter opens an hour before the show starts at 8PM. Arriving early with a ticket and English pamphlet in hand we entered the Kagura Hall eager to get a good view.
There are a few things you need to keep in mind before entering the performance room. The most important is to take your shoes off before entering the room. Though you can simply leave your shoes at the entrance neatly, the Shrine also has plastic bags available to place your shoes inside if you want to keep them with you.
When you enter the room, you can choose anywhere to sit on the floor in front of the stage. Though the shrine does not provide chairs or cushions, you are allowed to bring your own to make it more comfortable. The show runs for an hour roughly so sitting on a blanket or something to cushion your butt while you watch is sweet relief from the hard flooring.
When the show is about to begin, the shrine’s head priest appears and will act as the MC for the night. He speaks only in Japanese throughout the show but in general, he addresses the audience to introduce the show, talk a little about the town’s heritage and provides some context to the stories performed.
As the sweet and haunting sound of a Japanese bamboo flute starts to play, the performer enters the stage with the beating of the drum ready to tell the story of legends.
The Dance of Tajikarao
The Dance of Tajikarao depicts the god of physical strength, Tajikarao, using various methods to search for Amaterasu before discovering the Heavenly Rock Cave she was hiding behind. In this dance, his mask is depicted as a white face with yellow hair and the performer is holding a Kagura Suzu in his hand. The Kagura Suzu is a bell instrument used during Kagura and Shinto practice with the purpose of calling the gods’ attention.
The Dance of Uzume
The goddess of performing arts, Ame no Uzume, performs a dance in front of the cave Amataersu was hiding in. According to the legend, in her trance-like state, her dancing became increasingly lewd (like a striptease) causing the gathered gods to howl in laughter. This piqued Amaterasu’s curiosity and caused her to emerge to see the commotion outside.
The Dance of Totori (Removing the Door)
During this dance, the god Tajikarao uses his great strength to remove the hefty door of the cave and in the dance’s climax, rips it off and lifts it over his head in triumph. To show his great strength, this dance depicts his mask as a red face with jet black hair. This particular pose is strikingly memorable and many depictions of Tajikarao show him in this iconic stance. It is said that he threw the cave door with so much might, it landed on the top of Mount Togakushi in old Shinano Province (now known as Nagano Prefecture).
The Dance of Goshintai (Embodiment of the Kami)
The final dance is of the divine couple, Izanagi and Izanami, who are the creators of Japan and many gods (including Amatarasu and Susanoo) according to legend.
The performance shows them in marital bliss pulling off harmless pranks on each other in front much to our amusement. During the dance, they are shown brewing and drinking sake when they both become so drunk, they venture off the stage and become flirtatious with lucky audience members. With a good laugh and happy smiles on our faces, it was a perfect way to end the show and to highlight the significance of sake as a traditional custom. In old texts, sake was called “God wine” and the happiness of drinking it traditionally was thought of as a way of bringing the gods and the people together. This dance also serves as a prayer for a happy marriage, birthhood, and a prosperous harvest.
Takachiho Shrine’s Kagura Hall
The Dance of Tajikarao
The god Tajikarao holding a Kagura Suzu bell.
The Dance of Uzume
The Dance of Totori (Removing the Door)
The god Tajikarao showing his strength and lifting the cave door.
The Dance of Goshintai (Embodiment of the Kami)
The creators Izanagi and Izanami making and drinking sake.
Izanagi and Izanami getting drunk on sake and the chaotic fun begins…
How to get to Takachiho
From Kumamoto
From Kumamoto Airport, there are direct highway buses to the Takachiho Bus Center operated by Kyushu Sanko Bus and Miyazaki Kotsu. Be mindful as there are only two buses scheduled per day. The whole trip will take around 2 hr 30 min and costs 2410 yen one way.
From Miyazaki
From Miyazaki Airport, you can take the JR Nichirin or Hyuga limited express train to Nobeoka Station and transfer to a number 71/72 Miyazaki Kanko bus to the Takachiho Bus Center. The whole trip will take roughly 3 hr 30 min. The express train will take 80 minutes and costs 3000 yen while the bus trip will take 90 minutes and costs 1820 yen.
By car
As Takachiho is situated within the mountains surrounding the Mount Aso area, public transportation is both rather infrequent and inconvenient. Your best bet is to hire a rental car to get the most out of your trip. Not to mention the mountain drive is both scenic and beautiful especially during the autumn time! The easiest way to rent a car is at the airport.
If you are looking for a place, we hired our rental car through Nippon Rent-A-Car at Kumamoto Airport which was very easy and had great staff service.
n a crisp autumn morning, the surrounding peaks of a mountain plateau are painted in colours of orange, red and yellow. Cosmos flowers carpet the fields and golden pampas grass waves gently in the breeze. In the centre of the plateau, a cluster of fairytale thatched-roofed houses sits untouched and cutoff from the outside world, a feathery mist creeping up from their roofs.
You may be surprised to find out that these wooden farmhouses are not located in the Swiss Alps, but instead reside in the Japanese countryside of the Gifu Prefecture. For the Japanese, the idyllic village of Shirakawa-go captures life from a time gone by, preserving the traditional ways of Japanese mountain living dating back to the 1700s.
Showcasing such a rare and untouched glimpse into Japanese history, the UNESCO World Heritage site of Shirakawa-go attracts crowds of tourists from around the world. The main attraction, the Gassho-zukuri farmhouses, are a tribute to the impressive innovation of early Japanese civilisations. These farm houses shield exceptionally well against the harsh cold, do not easily rot and have enough strength to withstand the heavy snowfall of Japanese winters – all amazing architectural feats for the time.
With a pristine backdrop that changes colour with the seasons, Shirakawa-go is stunning to photograph. While the area is most commonly known for its picturesque beauty in winter, if you happen to find yourself visiting in autumn, you won’t be disappointed. Not only is Autumn one of Japan’s most beautiful seasons, it’s also one of the best times to visit Shirakawa-go with comfortable temperatures for exploring the village and full accessibility to the entire site.
In this guide we share our favourite photo locations from our visit to Shirakawa-go during autumn. For more about Shirakawa-go’s history or things to do during your stay, check out our Day Guide to Shirakawago!
Below you can see the mist rising up from the Gassho-zukuri rooftops
Photo Locations
Photo locations marked in The Hidden Thimble’s pink markers. Click the icon in the top left corner to open up all locations.
Tenshukaku Observatory (天守閣展望台) - Ogimachi Castle
or the perfect postcard picture, Shirakawa-go’s most famous viewpoint is the Tenshukaku Observatory, which overlooks Ogimachi Village and the mountain plateau in its entirety. There’s plenty of room up here to set up a tripod and take some awesome photos.
Reaching this viewpoint is relatively easy, with two points of access. The first and most comfortable is via the Shirakawa-go shuttle bus.
In autumn, the observatory shuttle bus departs in front of the Wada House every 20 minutes between 9AM – 3:40PM and costs 200 yen one-way. If you have a car you can also drive, but please note that roads are closed in winter.
Alternatively, you can enjoy a 20 minute walk up to the observatory. Choosing this option was great because we also scored some unique photos along the way! Please note the promenade up to the observatory is closed in winter.
Blue Shuttle bus to the top of the observatory. You can see the observatory in the top right of the picture.
Gassho Zukuri Triplets (Shirakawa-go Three Houses)
nother iconic Shirakawa-go photo spot is the Shirakawa-go Three Houses. Located quite a bit further out from Shirakawa-go’s main street, Shirakawa Kaido, this area was very much free from tourists – in fact, unless you were looking, you wouldn’t even know it existed.
Not clearly marked on any of the tourist maps, this area of Shirakawa-go was really nice to explore. The houses here seemed more natural and ‘lived in’ than those on Shirakawa-go’s more touristy streets. We found there were some really nice photo opportunities here as well.
Gassho-zukuri Minkaen (Open Air Museum)
he Gassho-zukuri Minkaen or Open Air Museum is a must-see for keen photographers. Inside are some of the best preserved and oldest Gassho-zukuri farmhouses, which are set among manicured gardens and water features.
For those that don’t know, the Gassho-zukari Minkaen features 26 buildings comprising of houses, watermills, warehouses to store grain, shrines and the main hall of a temple. All buildings have been preserved in their original state, with 9 out of the 26 buildings listed as important cultural property for the Gifu Prefecture.
Inside the museum grounds, there is a handmade soba restaurant, a shop and rest areas. If you’re looking for the particular house featured in the pond below, it’s called the Matadate Shed and it’s featured as number 12 on this Gassho-zukuri Minkaen map.
Opening hours are from 9am – 4pm and the entry fee is 600 yen for adults and 300 yen for children.
n your way past the Wada House, take the route off the main road to find a small wooden boardwalk that crosses a lily pond. If you position your camera in the right angle, you can get a nice shot of the boardwalk, with three Gassho-zukuri houses aligned diagonally in the background.
Luckily, this area is slightly tricky to find so there aren’t too many crowds allowing you to get a clear shot walking across the boardwalk. If you are traveling to Shirakawa-go outside of autumn, this area may look very different. In summer, it is overgrown with greenery and no pond is visible and in winter it may be covered up with snow or ice.
Shabby Shack
n our way up to the Tenshukaku Observatory, we passed the most cutest Gassho-zukuri farmhouse. It was a little run down and smaller than the other houses in the area but had its own cute little charm.
I absolutely loved the pine trees in the background and the shade also provided great lighting for a photo. This little gem turned out to be one of my favourite Shirakawa-go photos.
The photo below shows the pathway up to the observatory (located on the left). At the base of this path is where you will find this house.
Autumn Framing
he stunning foliage of the autumn months provides such a lovely backdrop for photos at Shirakawa-go, but it also allows for creativity!
Using the autumn leaves and flowers to frame your photos can elevate your photography and make the end product look even more spectacular.
or a unique perspective, consider a photo from within a Gassho-zukuri farmhouse. If you’re not able to stay within a Gassho-zukuri farmhouse, the Wada House is open from 9AM – 5PM daily and inside you can see various artefacts and daily items used by the Wada family – one of the wealthiest families and village leaders of Ogimachi.
Entry is 300 yen for adults and 150 yen for children.
The shoji screens create soft and ambient lighting formations, while the open shutters frame the Shirakawa-go backdrop as if it were a series of panorama paintings hung up on a wall.
ne of the other popular photos in Shirakawa-go is the upside houses. In mid-may, the rice paddies are filled with water just before the rice is planted, creating an upside down mirrored reflection of the houses on the water’s surface.
As the rice crops have been harvested and dried out by autumn, the opportunity to capture this type of shot is far more difficult. You can still capture some of these type of photos in autumn, when the houses reflect off some of the ponds.
way from busy city life, the wilderness of Oita Prefecture awaits you!
While its unspoiled scenery will keep you busy with great hiking, traditional shrines, temples, and great options for visitors seeking green or blue tourism opportunities, there is another thing worth seriously exploring – the hot springs.
Indeed, hot springs or “onsen” in Oita are numerous and exceptional. In fact, Oita has the most hot springs in Japan with over 4,500! This also includes one of the country’s largest hot springs areas, Yufuin.
Tranquil, quaint, and blessed with charming sceneries of peaceful fields, Yufuin developed into a popular onsen town with streets lined with delicious food, boutiques selling high-quality local crafts, and petite art museums.
With rich artistic and cultural sights mixed with an air of refined, up-market sophistication, Yufuin will not only delight hot spring aficionados and nature lovers but those who enjoy a return to traditional skills and crafts.
Wild cosmos flowers growing in Yufuin
Mount Yufu and its famous twin peaks
What to Do
Yufuin Floral Village
ne of the main attractions to the area is the Yufuin Floral Village, a mini theme park modeled after the historical villages of the Cotswolds area in England. The Cotswolds are also famous for being the filming location for many iconic films like Harry Potter.
Though more of a shopping town than theme park, the Yufuin Floral Village shop interiors are generally quite petite and narrow, decorated with colourful flowers, retro lamps fixtures, and exteriors reminiscent of old English architecture. With the mountain ranges in the distance and the cute store-lined street in the foreground, Yufuin Floral Village creates the perfect ambiance for photos, where you can recreate the mystical worlds of your favourite fantasy films or books.
Many of the stores are souvenir and gift shops generally themed around franchises from your childhood like Alice in Wonderland, Peter Rabbit, Moomins, Studio Ghibli to modern ones like Shaun the Sheep and of course, Disney.
Another major area is dedicated to the 1974 anime series “Heidi, Girl of the Alps” where you can find life-size character cutouts for photos, Heidi themed goods, a popcorn stand, and also a screening area to watch episodes.
Other attractions include petting zoos and feeding stations, owl and cat cafes, local handicraft shops, and a small food market.
Patting the goats in the “Heidi, Girl of the Alps” area
Feeding station to feed the rabbits
Shopping on Yunotsubo Street
ith around 70 different stores to see, browsing through Yunotsubo Street is an exciting opportunity to see what local goodies Yufuin has to offer.
You’ll find everything from cute cafes, stylish restaurants to shops selling high-quality handicrafts, local street foods, art galleries, and small museums. There is also the mother of all Studio Ghibli stores, Donguri no Mori, also affectionately called the Totoro store by some.
Yunotsubo Street is quite diverse in offerings ranging from traditional souvenirs to modern sweets and goods. Nearby, the small plaza known as Yasuragi Yokocho preserves an old-fashioned charm. There are 14 shops in total where you can find the famous purindora (a Japanese sweet pancake usually with red bean filling but in this version, a custard pudding – one of the must-eats in the area).
Since the overall town’s layout is quite compact, it makes exploring easy by foot. Though be warned, many of the stores close early between 5PM or 6PM.
Yufuin has a treasure trove of handcraft stores to explore
Impressive glass and music box display at Orgel’s Forest
Art galleries and museums
omething refreshingly different in this resort town is the amount of art galleries and museums you can visit ranging from highbrow to lowbrow.
Lovers of modern art will enjoy the COMICO ART MUSEUM designed by famed architect, Kengo Kuma. Artists such as Takashi Murakami, Hiroshi Sugimoto, and Yoshitomo Nara have whole gallery spaces dedicated to their works showcased here and the art museum showcases creators of manga, novels, and movies.
Artegio is another contemporary art museum that combines music and art. It aims to create a world where music and art – audio and vision – directly inspire each other and the works on display are one of a kind, all with instrument motifs.
For something on the fun side, Yufuin has a trick eye museum called Trick 3D Art Yufuin where you can enjoy self-made “artworks” posing with their optical illusion paintings.
Alternatively, get your hands dirty at the Yufuin Mingei Mura, a folk crafts village devoted to various traditional craftsmanship like pottery, glass-blowing, and ceramics. They also offer workshops for washi papermaking and indigo dyeing.
This is only a small list of the various other art galleries and museums that you should check out in Yufuin but all works are created by artists with special connections to the area.
ollowing Yunotsubo Street all the way to the foot of Mount Yufu is Lake Kinrin, famous for the mystical way the morning mist lingers over the lake’s surface during the colder seasons.
This is because at the bottom of Lake Kinrin there are two springs: one normal and the other a hot spring. The combination of cold and hot water creates hot steam which rises and makes the mist.
hile exploring the town you might also hear the trotting of a horse-drawn carriage.
The Yufuin Horse Carriage is a sightseeing carriage taking passengers through Yufuin’s famous sights and various shrines nearby.
Horse carriages have been a feature of the town since 1975 when Oita experienced
a big earthquake and the carriages were devised to help revive tourism to the area. As the carriages are Polish-made, their presence in the town makes Yufuin stand out from other Japanese resort towns.
If you would like to add a European touch to your Yufuin experience, the horse carriage tours need to be booked at the Yufuin Onsen Tourism Association in front of JR Yufuin Station and can be booked on the day. A ride lasts for about 1 hour and costs 1,600 yen for adults and 1,100 yen for children.
esides the beautiful countryside, there is another local treat in abundance and that is food.
Yufuin has some of the most delicious looking street food to feast your eyes on ranging from the trendy cute tapioca milk teas and sweets to classic Japanese street food like grilled seafood and fried foods. There is something to eat at every corner!
For foodies wanting to know what’s good, the local food specialties of Yufuin are yuzu kosho (Japanese seasoning made from chili peppers, yuzu citrus peel, and salt), croquettes, purindora, swiss rolls, and Bungo Beef which is a local beef breed special to Oita Prefecture.
Although we wished we could sample all there was on offer, here are our food highlights:
Grilled Softshell Shrimp Skewers
Huge Crab Stick
Giant Takoyaki with 10 Fillings (ginger, tempura bits, clam, corn, cabbage, shimeji mushroom, mochi, sausage, squid, and quail egg)
Cuttlefish and Shrimp and Onion Surimi (Fish Paste Cakes) at Houkyuuan in Yasuragi Yokocho
Yufuin Kinsho Croquettes is a famous street food in the area
Where to Stay
s a resort town so close to mountains and nature, the popular accommodation style in Yufuin are traditional ryokans.
These are perfect for those seeking a private getaway where you can enjoy the amenities the lodging has to offer and the majority of hotels have hot spring baths for guests. Most of the enjoyment of your stay comes from bathing as hot springs are seen as a luxurious treat, but the best stays are those that come with
a rotenburo (open-air bath) to get a great view of the Yufuin landscape especially at night when the stars come out.
Though most ryokans and hotels offer rotenburos that are open to all hotel guests, there are some that offer a private bath in your hotel room where you can fully immerse yourself in Yufuin’s rich nature and a private view of Mount Yufu’s twin peaks.
Run by two travel and lifestyle bloggers, The Hidden Thimble focus’ on creating truthful and in-depth travel guides, food & beauty reviews. Enjoy drool-worthy photography from around the world!
