n the heart of Chino lies a fairytale forest blanketed by moss – a sheer expanse of vibrant greens, like an untouched pristine scene from one of Miyazaki’s films.
With the sunlight sparkling on the morning dewdrops, everything is still and silent. It’s not hard to imagine a sleeping Totoro waking up among the moss covered tree branches, surrounded by kodoma – Japanese woodland spirits.
In this post, we invite you to open your eyes to a different kind of adventure. The kind that involves miniature worlds, forests and ecosystems you’ve not yet taken the time to notice before. We invite you to observe up close and look, really take the time to look, at all the intricate details we too often pass by. You might just discover how fascinatingly beautiful and complex the world truly is.
Located on the eastern side of the Nagono Prefecture, Chino is still a relatively unknown destination for the majority of tourists, yet is home to one of the most diverse mossy ecosystems in Japan. Best of all, you can still get up close and personal with nature without the excessive crowds.
Discover all that the Chino Moss Forest has to offer:
Kokenomori – Chino Moss Forest
he Chino Moss Forest is one of the best and important mossy ecosystems in Japan. Featuring over 485 different kinds of moss, Chino’s moss forest makes up nearly a quarter of all the species indigenous to Japan.
As you begin your stroll inside the moss forest, you’ll notice the temperature drop instantly. The atmosphere is cool and calming and presents a perfect opportunity to breathe in and enjoy the crisp, fresh air.
The main walking trails are well built and sturdy, with wheelchair friendly pathways constructed with wooden boards. For those looking to explore off the beaten track, small wooden planks venture off into a myriad of directions from the main pathways. Slightly unstable, the wooden planks are a great way for those steady on
their feet to experience the different kinds of moss that lay deeper within the forest.
Visiting on a sunny autumn day, the moss was a little dry and not as green and vibrant as we expected. The moss looks its best just after a shower, so we recommend visiting during periods of rainfall – you’ll see a noticeable difference in the vibrancy of the moss.
In 2008, the moss surrounding Shirakoma Pond was designated as a National Bryophyte Heritage Site by the Bryological Society of Japan. For those wanting to get deeper insight into the different species of moss, the local walking tours are filled with plenty of knowledge.
The map below highlights 10 different locations in the moss forest, where you can experience different species of moss, as well as walking trails and times.
Map Translations: A: Dicranum majus | B: Sphagnum girgensohnii | C: Andreaeaceae: The moss attached to the rocks looks best in the sun’s rays. | D: Pogonatum japonicum: The moss here is within a primeval forest. | E: Bartramiopsis lescurii. | F: Pogonatum contortum: The moss here is within a primeval forest. | G: Dicranum hamulosum and Dicranum viride var. Hakkodense. H: Heterophyllium affine. I: Pseudobryum speciosum. | J: Bazzania yoshinagana.
Wooden planks allow for adventures deeper into the forest.
Entrance from the carpark.
Main walkway inside the moss forest.
The forest floor is overgrown with moss!
Moss covered tree trunks.
Shirakoma Pond
nuggled in the foothills of Mt. Kita-Yatsugatake is Shirakoma Pond, nestled roughly in the centre of Chino Moss Forest. This pond is the largest lake in Japan that can be found above 2,100m and is well known for its surrounding moss forest.
Just a short 15minute walk from the car park, you will arrive at the lake. Walking the circumference of the pond only takes 45minutes and makes for a perfectly scenic and easy going hike. Small eateries for refreshments are dotted along the way.
Shirakoma Pond is known for its crystal clear water – a 5.8 meter degree of water
transparency to be exact. The lake is said to be named after a tragic legend of a young girl who fell into the lake with her white horse and was never found again.
The primeval woods surrounding the lake are hundreds of years old and feature a variety of flora including Japanese hemlock, spruces, Veitch’s silver fir and the appearance of Japanese rowan in autumn.
Calming and tranquil, Shirakoma Pond is the perfect pitt stop during a day spent hiking.
Photography Tips
have to say, having never photographed moss before, it took a while to get the type of shots I was looking for. I’m more of a landscape photographer rather than shooting up close detailed shots, but I absolutely LOVED shooting at the moss forest. Here are my tips to get the most out of your moss photography:
Bring a spray bottle
We visited on a sunny autumn day and as a result the moss was mostly dry. I had it in my head prior to visiting that I wanted to capture beautiful dew kissed moss! Luckily, we read a tip online that suggested bringing a little spray bottle of water to “freshen up the moss” before we took our photos. Dew-kissed moss photos? Great success!
Use a Macro Lens and Low Aperture
For those with DSLR cameras, macro lenses work nicely for some close up detail shots and, with low aperture, bokeh backgrounds.
Join a Tour/Bring Cute Figurines
Some moss forest tours also offer little photography shoots where you can take photos of the moss with miniature anime character set ups, such as Totoro and other woodland spirits. These look super cute and we’re bummed we did not bring our own!
As always, the easiest and most efficient way to get to Chino moss forest is by car. We were staying at Kurumayama Kogen Skypark in Chino, and the drive took 50mins.
Parking is free and there is a public toilet available.
By Train
Trains to the Chino Moss Forest area can be caught from Tokyo and Shinjuku station.
From Tokyo Station catch the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Sakudaira.
From Shinjuku Station, catch the JR Chuo Line to Kabuchizawa Station. From here catch the JR Koumi Line to Yachiho station.
From Sakudaira and Yachiho Station, you can catch the local buses outlined in the next section to Shirakoma Pond.
By Local Bus
Local buses run from Sakudaira and Yachiho Station to Shirakoma Pond. You can use the Yachiho Kogen Local Bus timetable to look up local bus times. On the timetable, 佐久平駅 is “Sakudaira”, 八千穂駅 is “Yachiho Station” and 白駒池入口 is the “Shirakoma Pond Entrance.” There are two buses on weekdays (red) and weekends (green). Read the timetable horizontally to see departure and arrival times.
The price for a local bus to Shirakoma Pond Entrance from Sakudaira Station is ¥1950, and while we can’t seem to find the exact price from Yachiho station, it should be cheaper as it is much closer to the destination.
oted in the top 10 most precarious buildings by Time magazine, the “tea house built too high” known as Takasugi-an is a Dr Seuss-esque tea house built overlooking the surrounding mountain range of Chino, Nagano. It sounds like the place for the perfect cup of tea – if only it didn’t sway so easily in the wind!
Actually there are a total of three impractical tree houses in Chino each uniquely unusual – Takasugi-an, Hikusugi-an and the Flying Mud Boat.
The most famous of the three, Takasugi-an, looks dainty and fragile as it expertly balances off the ground on top of two slender looking chestnut tree trunks. In contrast, its neighbour Hikusugi-an which literally translates to “the too-low tea house” is so hysterically close to the ground it looks more like a tent rather than a tea house. Last but not least, the death defying Flying Mud Boat located towards the front uses only cables and is suspend in midair like a hovering wooden space ship.
That’s just the kind of mind bending thinking that led to the creation of these impressive funky structures by architect Fujimori Terunobu. They are part of an art installation exploring unconventional ways to create small spaces that challenges traditional design and ideas of comfort.
So how can you step inside these quirky spaces? Unfortunately there’s not a lot of information online but here’s everything you need to know about visiting this off-the-grid attraction.
Who is Fujimori Terunobu?
o understand why these tea houses exist, we must first understand the man who created them.
Fujimori grew up in Chino. In fact, the site where the tea houses are built on is his family owned plot of land, which overlooks his first work “Jinchōkan Moriya Historical Museum” – a historical museum that showcases Chino’s neighbouring city Suwa’s ancient religious roots and connection with the prestigious Moriya family clan. Bonus fact: If you are a fan of the popular anime film “Your Name,” Suwa is heavily referenced in the film’s setting through Mitsuha’s character.
His approach to architecture is defined as being eccentric and humorous due of his experimental use of natural materials and his subversion of traditional tea house building techniques. He also mentions that his works are intentionally medieval in style, wanting to go back to a time before the Bronze Age to create ‘an international style in the Neolithic Age.” Simply put, imagine a Flintstones-esque Stone Age with a Japanese sensibility to design and the imagination of a Studio Ghibli film. This video shares more about his intentions behind Takasugi-an and The Flying Mud Boat.
Besides architecture, Fujimori is quite famous in Japan as a cultural commentator, author and television host and represented Japan in the 2006 Venice Biennale.
What to expect inside
esides the general descriptions found in many online art articles, it was quite hard to find any information on what these structures actually look like on the inside.
Although we weren’t able to go inside ourselves – we talk about this later on – from our research we were able to gather some sense of what each interior space has to offer.
Takasugi-an’s incredibly tiny, measuring only 2.2 meters on each side but this relaxing fort-like interior with attachable ladder to climb to the entrance is the treehouse happy childhood dreams are made of. Inside, the use of nature such as light reflecting from the gold leaf sky line during the day and moonlight shining from the bamboo shutters makes it a soothing experience to be inside. The Flying Mud Boat tea house is like a cozy wooden cabin ready to fly off on a Treasure Island inspired adventure and though we aren’t sure why Hikusugi-an’s tea house roof can completely open like a Babushka doll, the interior’s use of white and wooden paneling sure is hypnotic when the roof is closed.
All three works explore Fujimori’s experiment with tiny spaces. Whilst planning, he mentions he wasn’t interested in creating the smallest space possible, rather prioritising the sense of comfort that small spaces offer.
The structures also break conventions in Japanese tea house design and traditional architecture as well. The Flying Mud Boat’s suspension system is so unique it’s the only suspension structure in the world to run cables under its base foundation like a hammock. Takasugi-an and Hikusugi-an’s tea house designs both offer views of the outside world as oppose to traditional Japanese tea houses that insulate the guest to concentrate on the tea. In addition, the windows of Takasugi-an have another design advantage in that it replaces the traditional picture scrollor kakejiku found in many Japanese houses with the changing nature outside acting like a real-time artwork. Kakejiku is normally a painting or calligraphy that represents the time of year.
In retrospect, these citations of artistic insight aren’t necessarily known by the average tourist which is why visiting the structures using a guided tour would no doubt enrich your experience of seeing these peculiar buildings.
hile you can view the tea houses from the street, the only way inside is to join a tour through ChinoTabi.
ChinoTabi’s Fujimori Terunobu Tea House Tour is a three hour tour that will give you better context into Fujimori’s philosophy of design. It also includes a casual Japanese tea ceremony experience inside Hikusugi-an which we really
wanted to do but unfortunately, we inquired too late for a booking. You will also get to visit one of Japan’s oldest Shinto shrine complexes, Suwa Taisha during the tour.
If you wish to join, it’s best to inquire for reservations at least 3 months in advance to secure a spot as group numbers are limited to 8 people per tour. Tours are also closed during the winter season.
Seeing inside Takasugi-an during the ChinoTabi tour
Be aware that the bikes must be returned daily before 5pm and can be hired throughout the year except for the winter months.
Driving only takes 10 minutes, though, it is still an extra 11 minutes walk from the free parking at the Kamisha Honmiya Parking Lot to reach the houses.
Feel free to use our interactive map to help plan your trip.
Seasonality: When to Visit
f you have your heart set on doing the tour and having the full experience, we recommend visiting during spring, summer, and autumn as the tours are not operational during the winter.
However, if you don’t mind seeing the houses from the outside seeing Fujimori’s tea houses and the Chino area during any season has great sightseeing opportunities all-year-round for travellers.
To list a few attractions nature, hiking and scenic drives are some of the main draws to the area. In fact, Chino is a popular destination during the summer for mountain
hiking as the cool summer temperature averages around 27 degrees making it a perfect getaway from the heat. Many people flock to the Kurumayama Kogen highland area to see the wild flowers bloom and the deep greens of the fairy tale-like Moss Forest for exploring.
For autumn, the view of Yokoya Gorge with its impressionist autumn leaves is breathtaking at the observatory point Yokoya Kannon and Choen-ji temple’s picturesque fiery red autumn leaves are a must see in the area. The winter months have everyone head into the Alps to the snow resorts for exciting ski activities and plenty of hot springs to enjoy.
gainst a rich, sky blue backdrop stands a pristine white shrine overlooking a sea of clouds. In the background the breath taking Mount Fuji is surrounded by the Yatsugatake, Southern, Central and Northern Alps.
This describes perfectly the photograph I saw which instantly had me add “Sunrise hike up Mount Kurumayama,” to our list of things to do on The Hidden Thimble’s upcoming Japan trip.
In Japan, the phenomenon of ‘unkai’ or ‘sea of clouds’ is a popular sight to see, especially in the early mornings from Autumn to early Spring. Unkai describes the mystical experience of being above the clouds or overlooking a sea of clouds, usually when standing on the peak of a mountain. The clouds typically form a blanket that covers the valleys and cities below.
Starting your day with a sunrise hike while on vacation is tough on a summer’s day. Doing it on a freezing cold November morning with little sleep the night before? Nearly impossible.
Nearly.
We hit snooze once…annnnd ended up leaving just before it started getting light outside. But, this actually worked in our favour because, long story short, being unfamiliar with the area made it extremely difficult to find the starting points of the hiking trails…imagine us trying to do it in the darkness of the night?
So you can get the most out of a sunrise hike to Mount Kurumayama – even in the black of night – we’re sharing allll our knowledge in this handy blog post:
Hiking To Mount Kurumayama Summit and Shrine
o let’s be real, the goal of a sunrise hike is to be able to get the most sleep possible, while still being able to hike to the summit of a mountain with enough time to catch the sunrise. Therefore, you need to know the shortest route out of the many different ways to hike to Mount Kurumayama’s summit.
We believe the shortest route begins at the Kurumayama SKYPARK carpark. The start of the hiking trail can be found behind the Kurumayama Sky Plaza building, where you will find a sign pointing towards the correct trail. In total, the walk is only 3kms which should take you roughly 40mins. Remember to take a torch with you. It will be dark as night when you start.
While the signage is great at the very beginning of the hike, it does disappear after some time and knowing which way to go can be difficult. Being unfamiliar with the area, we went the wrong way a couple of times, but were able to use google to walk in the right direction and find our way back on track. The hike is very gentle and easy, and begins with wooden steps that transition into a flat pebbled path.
The path does veer off into different directions at times and there’s often no signage pointing which way to go, please refer to the map below for the correct route.
If you would like to visit Yashima Marsh, you can do so by taking a left off the track and following the signs.
As you get closer to the summit, you will begin walking up stoney steps. This is probably the steepest and toughest part of the hike, but still easy overall. Once you reach the summit, the shrine is literally right in front of you. All that’s left to do is enjoy the view and take some photos! There are a few seats at the top too so you can have a picnic. Beware. It is absolutely freezing. Painfully so in autumn when we visited, but temperatures are also known to be below 10 degrees even in summer.
We unfortunately didn’t get the right conditions to experience the unkai overlooking the valley with Mount Fuji in the background. We were however, able to experience the full unkai effect overlooking the valleys on the opposite side of the mountain. If your goal is to see unkai, make sure to check the weather conditions ahead of time.
Signage can be found at the Kurumayama Kogen SKYPARK, behind the Sky Plaza Building
This is what the start of the hiking trail looks like.
View of Mount Fuji
Veer right off the main path to hike to Yashima Marsh.
Ema are wooden tablets you can use at Japanese shrines to write down any prayers or wishes. This is a traditional way to send prayers and wishes to the gods.
Unkai/Sea of Clouds viewed from Mount Kurumayama
Chairlift to Mount Kurumayama Summit
Hiking not your thing? Every Sunday from May to early November you can take a 15minute sunrise chairlift to the summit.
Enjoy your sleep in ;)
Seasonality: The Best Time to Visit Kurumayama Kogen
e visited Kurumayama Kogen during the month of November, which is off-peak season. There was literally no one in the area which made the experience very peaceful and finding places to park the car easy and stress free. The downside was there weren’t a whole lot of places open for dinner. In fact, we resorted to convenience store dinners, which in Japan is actually pretty great haha.
In autumn you can enjoy golden pampas grasslands and landscapes shifting colour from yellow to orange to red – beautiful against the blue sky. The crisp autumn air makes it the perfect time to get a clear view of Mount Fuji from the summit of Mount Kurumayama.
The downside? The lifts weren’t in operation, so if you’re relying on the lifts take that into consideration. It’s also very, very cold!
In winter the SKYPARK is transformed into a snow covered wonderland. This is the mountain’s most popular season and is filled with winter sport enthusiasts. Snow trekking to the summit is also possible in winter.
Spring and Summer is Kurumayama’s green season. The grasslands are transformed into luscious green fields filled with mountain blooms. Enjoy the nikko kisuge (yellow daylilies), Dwarf Pincushion Flowers and the Japanese Azalea.
Siree and I were doing a mini roadtrip around the Gifu area, so we decided to hire a car from Toyama Airport as we needed to return there to catch a plane to Miyazaki for the second half of our trip. From Toyama Airport, it was a 3.5 hour drive which was really easy to navigate using Google Maps.
For those travelling from Tokyo, it’s just a 3 hour drive.
Parking in the area is great and free 24 hours a day! There are 5 parking areas with a capacity of approximately 1500 vehicles. Some of the carparks can be quite far away from the SKYPARK, so on busy days a shuttle bus is available for transport to the SKYPARK.
By Public Transport
No matter where you are traveling from, the easiest way to travel to Kurumayama Kogen SKYPARK is from Chino station which can be reached from most stations in Japan. Once at Chino Station, you need to take the “ALPICO Highland Express Bus” from Stand 3. The bus needs to say “車山高原行” and the stop is “車山高原”.
There unfortunately is not a lot of English information on traveling to Kurumayama via public transport and any information you find on official tourist sites is incredibly vague. The best we can do for you is provide this Japanese link, which has a map that shows where bus stand 3 is: Chino to Kurumayama Bus Information
iree and I stayed at Petit Hotel Kanan, which is only a 10 minute walk from Kurumayama Kogen Ski Resort or a 2 minute drive. We stayed in a twin room with a private bathroom. Water was hot, the room was warm and amenities were great. The hotel provides soap, shampoo, slippers and a hairdryer and there’s free wifi inside the rooms. The hotel also has a full restaurant and sometimes hosts local jazz performances.
Nearby, Lake Shirakaba is only a 15minute drive.
Guests are free to come and go at any time, so we were able to leave early in the morning to do our sunrise hike.
have never experienced traveling to the north region of Japan before, that is until I found out about a magical wonderland dedicated to foxes among the peaceful green forest overlooking the peaceful countryside in the Miyagi prefecture.
On my first venture to the Tohoku area, I commemorated my visit with a mandatory stopover at the famed Zao Fox Village – an outdoor zoo where you can see cute red and white fox fluff balls up close and personal!
There is no denying that Japan has some of the most unique experiences to enjoy the company of adorable animals with plenty of animal cafes and animal islands to fill this deprived writer’s existence and the Fox Village is the most exotic in my opinion.
Located high up in the mountains of Shiroishi, Miyagi, here’s how I enjoyed my time with these mischievous furry friends.
FEATURES OF ZAO FOX VILLAGE
The Open Enclosure
fter entering the main area of the fox village, you are immediately greeted by curious foxes interested in your presence.
It was a pleasant shock to be able to get so close to these usually wild creatures and the enclosure space is large and wide enough that the foxes are free to run and walk around you. As foxes are nocturnal by nature, not all of them are the active type. Most seem to enjoy being tucked up in their tails and napping among the many tree stumps and burrows.
Though there is a paved pathway to make it easier to navigate, you can also walk freely on the unpaved nature areas where the piles of winter white snow provided a
lovely sight in contrast with their fiery red or jet black fur.
Being able to walk freely alongside these animals with little to no staff supervision was an added perk of the experience but it is also important to note their curiosity can get the better of them. The foxes are known to tug on bags for food or even pee on guests’ legs!
Before entering, the staff will give you a behaviour briefing with tips to make you feel more at ease. Also, the fox village does not allow visitors to touch the foxes in the open enclosure and you will need to pay to be able to touch and hold one which might be a bummer to know for some.
The Feeding station
n order to feed the foxes, you must purchase a small food bag at the register before entering the enclosure and only feed the foxes once inside the Feeding Station.
Getting inside the Feeding Station wasn’t quite as simple as I thought. These foxes were so darn smart they tried to be sneaky and enter the Feeding Station after me where they weren’t allowed! When opening the doors, make sure you look around you and move quickly as once the foxes see you about to enter, they will approach you understanding you are about to give them food. It took me a few tries to avoid their attention but I managed to “Mission Impossible” myself by walking backwards using my body as a “shield” to slither through the gap I created. Phew!
When you look over the edge, you’ll see the little critters amass towards the side eagerly awaiting a treat. Simply throw the feed towards them and watch them eat it below.
arked by a trail of red torii gates at the north of the enclosure was a shrine dedicated to foxes.
At first I thought this was a lovely feature to have at the zoo but after looking around I slowly found it to be unimpressive.
Along the trail of torii gates, a majority of them looked a bit shabby with the paint extensively peeled off to expose the wood underneath hinting to the fact that they
haven’t been maintained in a while. The shrine itself was also very basic – a small hut surrounded by a fence in the signature red vermilion colour.
In all fairness, I assume this was done intentionally as anything fancier would be ruined by the curious foxes but I felt it could have been enhanced to be educational. A few more signs dedicated to a more historical look at foxes in Japan perhaps would be more pleasant to see rather than the numerous warning signs you’ll find around the enclosure and something I would be keen to know more about.
It seems recently they have upgraded more torii gates since my visit.
The Petting Zoo
nother feature of the fox village is the petting zoo area filled with small farm animals like guinea pigs, goats, Patagonian Maras (a small type of Capybara) and, you guessed it, more foxes. The petting zoo area is also where you can experience holding and touching a fox for a small fee. Springtime is cub season so you can expect to see many cute baby foxes
being born and they also offer a “hug a baby fox” experience too.
As farm animals seemed a little lackluster compared to the foxes, I skipped them to look at the foxes in the caged area located just ahead. This section acts like a hospital of sorts and is used to house the juvenile young foxes, the sick, injured or currently breeding foxes. You can also find the exotic arctic fox here if you are lucky.
Here’s a price list of all the fees for general admission and experiences (as of 2019):
GENERAL ENTRY
FOX FEED
FOX HOLDING EXPERIENCE
Here is some helpful general information for Zao Fox Village.
TIPS TO KNOW
s the saying goes: “You never know until it happens to you.”
Visiting Zao Fox Village was my first experience of Japan’s interesting animal haven spots and traveling through a new part of rural Japan was a welcome breath of fresh air away from the hustle of busy Tokyo life.
Though I am still new at traveling domestically here within Japan, there is always something to be learnt and I hope I can share with you some helpful tips and tricks to better prepare you on your journey.
Here are some helpful notes when preparing for your visit to Zao Fox Village:
Ethics
here are a few articles online that comment on the unethical nature of the foxes living at Zao Fox Village which I wanted to explore here. Unfortunately, there are no official details in English or Japanese about why the Zao Fox Village was started online that I could find at least. However, there are facts that the staff do explain during your briefing and some kind bloggers who were able to translate.
All foxes in the village are domestically bred and tamed. As they are all vaccinated, there is no fear of Echinococcus infection from being spread which allows a safe interaction between humans and animals.
One of the main problems I believe is the assumptions that can be stemmed from the misinterpretation of the word “sanctuary.” The original foxes at Zao Fox Village were actually rescued from the fur trade and they don’t sell any of the animals born in their care which makes it sound like an animal sanctuary of sorts. But, like a wonderland attraction, I would not call it an “animal sanctuary” in the sense of endangered species conservation. To me, it’s a themed zoo selling the image of a “fox heaven” experience.
Another issue was the animals kept in cages. There are a number of reasons explained as to why an animal had to be put in a cage. This could be due to sickness and preventing cross infection, being overly aggressive and needing to be isolated from the others or people, or during the breeding season. Regardless, animals kept in cages is an ethical dilemma that will always face heavy criticism. Unfortunately, in many Asian countries including Japan, views on pet and animal ownership can be very polarising especially from a Western perspective.
For me, the animals did seem fine in their cages and did not seem to be in distress or crying. That being said though, I do think the cages look shabby and would like to see them change its layout and structure.
Also, I think they should not leash the animals especially the farm goats. I speculate they did this in fear they would jump their pen and risk heading into an area they shouldn’t be in. I would rather see them make a more secure space for the farm animals or exclude them for safety reasons as an ideal situation.
Some people are concerned about the fox feed that the staff provides for the feeding station thinking it’s too similar to a cat or dog food. Foxes are well adapted to human environments and they also can enjoy eating pet food as written here.
I try to keep an open mind and I do believe that the staff are doing their best to take care of all their animals. The animals all seem happy, well looked after and healthy though, I do think there should be improvements to the cages and more information on processes for transparency and education.
My two cents is this, if you hate zoos or animal enclosure environments, I highly suggest you do not visit Zao Fox Village. If you love animals, are looking to have a unique experience with them in an open free space and have an open mind, then I do recommend going to Zao Fox Village for the experience.
The easiest way to get to Zao Fox Village from Tokyo is via bullet train (shinkansen). With the bullet train at Tokyo station or Ueno station, take the JR Tohoku bullet train called Yamabiko – やまびこ Sendai all the way to Shiroishi-Zao station. Be careful as there is another stop also called Shiroishi station which is further away.
Getting to Zao Fox Village from Shiroishi-Zao station:
After arriving at Shiroishi-Zao station, you will need to take a bus or a taxi to get to the Zao Fox Village. I highly recommend the taxi as it is the most convenient method.
For going to Zao Fox Village, there should be taxis waiting outside the station but the tourist information center can call one for you. When going back to the station, the staff at the Fox Village can call a taxi for you.
Using the bus to get to Zao Fox Village from Shiroishi-Zao station is the cheapest way but incredibly limiting.
The local Castle Kun bus runs on Tuesdays and Fridays from Shiroishi Station to Kawarago Dam, at 7:58am and 1:35pm. You must ask the driver to let you off at Zao Fox Village, as it is not a regular stop and also confirm the time and where to wait for the return bus to pick you up. To be honest with all this hassle, it’s not worth it but if you do decide to take this route, it is probably best to take the first bus and take a taxi back.
Arriving By Bus:
A cheaper method is to take a highway bus to Sendai however you will still need to catch a local train to Shiroishi Station.
Arriving By CAR:
If you have a Japanese or the international driver license you can rent a car and enjoy the freedom of traveling at your own pace.
UPDATE: Due to the 2020 coronavirus, some of the festivities and events for Japan’s cherry blossom season have been cancelled.
See Tokyo’s World-Famous Cherry Blossoms
e’re finally at winter’s end here in Japan and it’s time for another annual event – the season of cherry blossoms!
Each year Japan celebrates the calling of spring with the anticipation of its cherry blossoms blooming. Everywhere you look there’s a fresh lineup of local events to attend, and of course, a variety of limited edition food items and goods for sale to really get you into the spirit of the season.
As the symbol of spring, Japan’s cherry blossoms have always amassed fascination and admiration from locals and travelers making it the must-see event of the season.
But don’t just see it through the lens of a tourist passing by simply because you’re traveling. Why not make it a little more special by enjoying a little R&R and treat yourself to a day of picnics, sunshine and festival hopping just like the locals do!
Here, we’ll introduce you to the seasonal event of cherry blossom viewing in Japan and how to get the best out of the experience!
When does Cherry Blossom Season Begin
ust like checking the weather forecast before heading out, Japan’s meteorological corporation has a national cherry blossom blooming forecast based on the standard pale pink cherry blossom with five small petals.
Although the meteorological corporation’s starting dates are a great help to plan your plane flight, it’s also important to know their predictions can be, at times, misleading. If you arrive too early, you’ll see more closed buds than flowers but wait too late and you’ll see more green leaves than flowers. For me, more importantly,
their date predictions on when trees will be in full bloom will guarantee you an unforgettable sight of the cherry blossoms and take out the guessing work.
Also, take note that the first month of spring still brings strong winds and the rare typhoon which can spoil the blooming season’s longevity. But don’t fret! There are other kinds of cherry blossoms with varying shapes and intensities in colour which bloom later to enjoy should you miss the early blooming time. See this article for more details.
eno Park during cherry blossoms season brings big crowds of people setting up their picnic spot but don’t let that discourage you!
Ueno offers a nice glimpse into Tokyo living and also a peek at the gorgeous spreads salarymen companies prepare for their workers. During the evening, the park lights
up their trees with lanterns to continue the festivities into the night.
You can also take advantage of the nearby attractions such as Ueno Zoo, Ameyoko, and other shopping streets, the local temples for some sightseeing and it’s also an easy stroll to Akihabara.
Access: Next to Ueno Station.
2. Nakameguro
little bit of Kyoto in Tokyo, Nakameguro is beautiful during cherry blossom season as you can see rows of overflowing cherry blossoms growing along the riverside. Nakameguro is not only pretty during the day but the night as well when the trees are lit up and the local nightlife begins.
Take advantage of what’s in Nakameguro and enjoy the boutique shopping, international food scene, and great bars.
Access: Ikejiri-Ohashi, Meguro, or Naka-Meguro Station.
3. SHINJUKU GYOEN
he “Manhattan Central Park” of Shinjuku you could say, this spacious and peaceful oasis in the middle of Tokyo’s liveliest business district has around 1,100 cherry blossom trees.
Entrance to Shinjuku Gyoen is ¥200 and offers a unique opportunity to get up close and personal as their cherry blossom varieties “Weeping Cherry” and “Tokyo Cherry”
are so large, their branches span wide and touch the ground. It’s a great photo spot and you can move freely around the branches making it feel like you’re intertwined in its flowers.
Access: A short walk from Shinjukugyoenmae Station, Sendagaya Station or Shinjuku-sanchōme Station
oving a little further from Central Tokyo’s CBD, Inokashira Park is located in the ever cool neighbourhood of Kichijoji. The park is quite big and large enough to fit a pond, a petting zoo, and an aquarium within the grounds!
The crowds, especially young couples, during cherry blossom particularly enjoy the swan boat and boat rides but be warned. Local legend has it that the jealous goddess
Benzaiten curses couples who ride the boats to break up soon after.
Regardless of the tale, Inokashira Park is a great location for a cozy weekend. Enjoy the live street performances, artist market and it’s also a short walk to the Ghibli Museum.
lthough not an overly touristy location, Nakano has many cherry blossoms which line the main street which leads conveniently to the ward’s locally run sakura festival at Arai Yakushi Temple.
The sakura festival is a must visit since it’s a great way to experience a typical Japanese matsuri-style festival that mainly occurs in the summer. You’ll see lots of people dressed in yukata and the food and entertainment are great for those casual
evenings out.
The area is also a nice mixture of laid back old school charm mixed with an Akihabara otaku vibe since Nakano is home to Nakano Broadway, a hobby enthusiast’s paradise.
Access: A short walk from Nakano Station.
What to do During the Season
1. Sakura Festival
robably my favourite thing to do during cherry blossom season, there’s nothing like the sound and energy of a festival to get you into the spirit of things and sakura festivals offer great entertainment both traditional and modern.
During sakura festivals, and depending on where you visit, there are many types of performances to see other than the usual live music and dance acts. Venturing to
more local neighbourhood areas like Nakano, you can enjoy local fanfare like carnival games and see local talent shows while more international areas like Nakameguro have a more western vibe and offers foreign treats like mulled wine, sangria, German beers, and sausages to enjoy mixed with traditional performances such as buyō (a traditional performing art similar to kabuki theatre).
Playing traditional matsuri games at Nakano Sakura Festival
pend a unique day enjoying the local scene by setting up your blue tarp mat having a picnic under the shadow of a billowing flower tree. Hanami or “flower viewing” is a popular picnic event where people enjoy eating and drinking while viewing flowers. Although there are no “rules” to doing hanami right, there are a few staples to the activity which every local seems to follow:
The Essentials for Hanami
THE FOOD: Lunch Boxes, Side Dishes, Snacks, and Yes, Alcohol
Wondering what a typical hanami spread looks like?
Although homemade obento boxes are popular, hanami food is generally store-bought for convenience. The food (even obento boxes) are shared amongst everyone and include extra sweet or savoury snacks as some hanami parties can last until the evening if planned.
Some popular food ideas include karaage, lunch boxes, sandwiches, onigiri (rice balls), takoyaki, yakisoba, hanami dango, sakura mochi, and fruit.
Another fun thing to do is to cheers the arrival of spring with a drink in hand. During the festivities, it is legal to drink alcohol openly in public areas and you can also find drink stands that sell chilled cans of beer should you forget yours. So grab your chuhai, beer or wine and kanpai!
Where to Purchase: convenience stores and local supermarkets like Maruetsu, Peacock or Seiyu.
FOR SITTING: Picnic sheets and sitting cushions
With the chaos of multiple hanami parties happening around you, space will get very tight fast.
Forget about setting up the tables and chairs and do as many other people do and simply spread out a tarpaulin mat on the ground to enjoy your picnic party.
Unfortunately, the ground may be hard and uneven, so I recommend buying inexpensive sitting cushions from the 100 yen store to help feel more comfortable.
Also, don’t forget to take your shoes off before sitting down! The no-dirty-shoes-allowed rule also applies here too.
Where to Purchase: convenience stores, local supermarkets, and 100 yen stores.
FOR EATING: Paper Plates, Disposable Cutlery, and Tissues
Just like with any other party having extra plates and cutlery will come in handy especially with bigger groups. Another pro tip is to bring some wet wipes or “oshibori” for when it’s hard to locate a convenient way to wash your hands or clean up spills.
Where to Purchase: convenience stores, local supermarkets, and 100 yen stores.
FOR FUN: GAMES
Looking at flowers all day is nice and all but you can really liven up a party with some games to play as well.
Simple party card games can be found at the 100 yen stores and offer an interesting insight to the childhood of Japanese locals or, something more familiar like Cards Against Humanity or Uno and you’ll ensure everyone has a riot for hours on end.
Where to Purchase: 100 yen stores, Bic Camera, Yellow Submarine and Don Quixote.
THE CLEAN UP: Garbage Bags
Just as pretty as the cherry blossoms are on the tree, keeping the environment clean and tidy is also expected of everyone as much as possible.
Do the right thing and trash your garbage responsibly by saving time and effort and separate bottles, burnable garbage, and non-burnable garbage in bags before taking them to the designated garbage area.
3. Enjoy Spring with Cherry Blossom Flavoured Treats
id you know that cherry blossoms are also edible?
Although I am not the greatest fan of the taste as I think it’s too similar to a soap fragrance many cherry blossom foodstuffs mixes fruit flavours like strawberry, peach or cherry to sweeten its flavour.
The most popular limited edition item to get would be the Starbucks sakura edition frappuccino or latte that’s only available in Japan but do venture around to taste all the shops have to offer.
You can also buy cherry blossom tea, chocolates, and alcohol that’ll make great souvenirs.
4. Night Illuminations (Yozakura)
eeing flowers during the day is not the only time the locals go to see these pretty flowers. Yozakura or “night cherry blossom” is a common nighttime event for locals to enjoy the sight of these flowers lit up like glowing clouds.
The best places to head for yozakura are Chidorigafuchi Park, Rikugien Garden, Nakameguro and Ueno for their impressive displays.
From the lovely pink cherry blossoms of spring to the fiery red autumn leaves in fall, every change of the season shows off the beauty of Japan’s local nature. There are a number of flowers, plants, and local scenery that are worth seeking out during full bloom that nationally represent each season – even the locals treat it as if Japan’s four seasons possess some particular quality unique only to their own country.
Autumn in Japan is gorgeous for nature and is my favourite time of the year here. I would even argue it’s prettier than springtime (I know, gasp!).
A popular scenic sight in autumn located near Tokyo in Kanagawa’s Hakone is the pampas grass fields of Sengokuhara. It’s a breathtaking hillside landscape filled with overflowing tall gold-toned grass and looks stunning through the camera lens where you will be moved by the overwhelming wonder of the scenery mixed with the warm autumn sun. It was also voted the “Best 50 scenic spots in Kanagawa” and the “Best 100 spots to view flowers in Kanagawa.”
How can you step into this waking daydream?
Follow me to know the ins and outs of this heavenly field of wonder.
The Best Time to Visit
SEASON
There are four different stages that Sengokuhara’s pampas grass fields go through to get to full bloom:
As a no-brainer, it is best to avoid visiting in March as the field will be charred to promote good growth and protect the landscape from other intrusive trees and weeds. If you do visit during summer, you can enjoy the fresh green fields but I highly recommend to visit in November when the grass has turned fully into its signature gold.
TIME
Unfortunately, though the best viewing period is when the field is completely coloured gold it is also the time many people visit the fields. They can get quite crowded particularly on a good day after 12PM.
However, being a public site it is open at all hours so you can get there as early in the
morning as possible to have the place to yourself.
Alternatively, you can go in the late afternoon to catch the sunset. During either time, the light will filter through the grass which will increase its radiance.
Although the weather was raining and overcast when I went, I was still able to enjoy the scenery and take some nice photos!
The fields are not only great for nature photography but also fashion portraits too!
Although the field area itself is very large and wide there is unfortunately only a single walk path that people can walk through. There are plans to extend it in the future but for now, you can only walk up and down along the rocky pathway. The good thing though is that you can still get up close and touch the grass but not damage it, of course.
The main path has a lot of potholes and is not paved so wearing closed toe shoes are
best when visiting. Alternatively, there is a paved trail portion on the side should the main path journey be too difficult to walk or becomes muddy due to rain.
Once you make it to the end at the top you can get a great view of how the grass look like rolling waves and see how vast and far the grass can grow on the hill.
STAY DURATION
After taking some snaps and wondering around a bit, I would say the whole experience took around 30 minutes to 1 hour. Sengokuhara’s Pampas Grass Field is a good pit stop to walk around and do some scenic exploring but a good point to note
is that it isn’t the best place to plan an entire day around and traveling to the area can be a pain in the neck to get to if you are relying on the public transport’s hourly time schedule.
The view going up.
The view going down.
GENERAL INFORMATION
PRICE
OPENING HOURS
How to Get There
Hire a Car
As rural areas in Japan have slower public transport timetables than urban areas, going by car is the best way to get from place to place.
Google Maps and Apple Maps in Japan both work well in English and Japanese and makes driving a breeze if you are not familiar with the local language. Additionally, most rent-a-cars in Japan are equipped with an inbuilt navigation system should you not have access to the internet while traveling.
Arriving by Bus
There are two main ways to take the bus to get to the Sengokuhara area (from japan-guide.com):
From Hakone-Yumoto Station, take the Hakone Tozan Bus, Togendai Line (Route T) (30 minutes) → to Sengoku Kogen; the field is near the bus stop
From Shinjuku Station, take the Odakyu Hakone Expressway Bus (roughly 2 hours and 11 minutes) → to Sengoku Kogen; the field is near the bus stop
OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST
Owakudani Valley
Owakudani Valley or as the locals call it “Jigokudani” (the Valley of Hell) is a 3000-year-old volcanic valley with active sulfur vents that spew out volcanic gases and steam. As a hot springs area, it is famous for their black coloured eggs believed to extend
one’s life by 7 years! Don’t miss the upward trail by taking the Hakone Ropeway to see how they boil the eggs and appreciate the views of Lake Ashi and Mt. Fuji from the top.
Chisuji Falls is a small but pretty forest waterfall with hiking trails to enjoy. It’s called “the waterfall of a thousand threads” because the water spills between the rocks like many thin “threads.”
It’s surrounded by maple trees and would no doubt look amazing during autumn time but summer time has another special surprise. In July during the evening, hundreds of fireflies gather and glow creating a mystical sight for the eyes.
Lake Ashi is a great place to enjoy a lot of tourist-friendly attractions like traveling on one of the famous Lake Ashi pirate ships that cruise around the lake, the Hakone-en
Aquarium, Hakone Tokaido Checkpoint as well as visit the many local shops and nature walks that are accessible via here.
Temple-hop along Hakone Shrine
If you do head to Lake Ashi you can also visit the famous Hakone Shrine. It is famous for its tori gate situated as if it is “floating” in the water and is a popular photo spot
for visitors. There are also two other shrines nearby that are worth the visit – the nearby Kuzuryu Shrine as well as Hakone-Mototsumiya Shrine to see the best view of Mt Fuji (see my guide here).
Run by two travel and lifestyle bloggers, The Hidden Thimble focus’ on creating truthful and in-depth travel guides, food & beauty reviews. Enjoy drool-worthy photography from around the world!
