city nestled between vast mountain ranges and steeped in well-preserved antiquity, Takayama is a charming town for those seeking to experience a traditional getaway.
With its pretty riverside setting and architecture dating back to the Edo and Meiji eras, many have compared Takayama to the likes of Kyoto – a city renowned for its cultural and historical significance. Kyoto represents life in the old capital, preserving the refined styles and traditions of well-known Japanese practices such as kaiseki meals, geisha customs, and ancient Imperial Court life. As opposed to its famous tourist-heavy moniker, Takayama offers a low-key, rustic experience of old Japan developed from its feudal history and its important agricultural roots.
What whispers of the past does Takayama hold to inspire our sense of exploration?
Thanks to its isolated geographical location from other major cities and their influences, Takayama will amaze you with its bountiful nature spots, mouth-watering gourmet food, and homegrown sense of cultural identity cultivated for over 300 years.
What to do
akayama has an abundance of museums and local attractions just waiting to be discovered on foot.
Whether you are stopping by on a day trip or staying overnight, here are some highlights of our personal favourites:
Old Township (Furui-machi-nami)
n absolute must-see in Takayama, the Old Township is a preserved cluster of period establishments dating back between the 17th and the 19th century.
It is centered around the Sanmachi-Suji district area, a collection of three main streets (Ichi-no-machi, Ni-no-machi, and San-no-machi) that are linked by the flowing rivers that run through the town.
As you listen to the soft running of the water, you’ll discover alleys of latticed bay
windows and traditional wooden storefronts adding to the timeless feeling that still lingers in the area. Strolling through each street you can find plenty of eateries, shopping, sake breweries, museums, and plenty of examples of old merchants’ houses, traditional inns, and private houses.
Accessing the district will also allow you to walk on the iconic red bridge over Miyagama River, making it truly feel like you have crossed over into another time and space.
Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine
here are many shrines in Takayama but one of the oldest is the Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine and dedicated to the deity Hachiman.
Hachiman has a strong spiritual relationship with Shintoism and Buddhism and is believed to be the divine protector of Japan, its people, and the Imperial Family.
During ancient times, many samurai also worshiped him and peasants worshiped Hachiman as the god of agriculture.
If you happen to visit during Autumn you can also see the annual Chrysanthemum Festival (Bunkyo Kiku Matsuri) where displays of blooming Chrysanthemum flowers and flowering bonsai are on display. Chrysanthemums represent longevity, rejuvenation, and the Imperial Family in Japan.
Takayama Yatai Kaikan (Takayama Festival Float Exhibition Hall)
uring the city’s famous Takayama Festival, giant intricately decorated floats called “yatai” are paraded through the city and the Takayama Yatai Kaikan is where you can view and learn more about these stunning works of art.
The yatai used during the Takayama festival are a type called “dashi” which have a strong tie to the folk belief of spirits living within the plants, rocks, and nature of the mountains. These yatai floats were built for these spirits as they were thought to be holy, descended from the heavens. Thus, these yatai are made to resemble
mountains to worship these divine beings. The yatai displayed at Takayama Yatai Kaikan are hundreds of years old and the floats used for the autumn Takayama Festival are rotated three times a year.
When purchasing an admission ticket, you can also receive an audio guide in English to further explain the cultural and historical value these amazing floats have. Being situated within the grounds of the Hachiman Shrine, you may also see a Miko-san (Japanese shrine maiden) stationed at the reception desks and gift store areas.
Sakurayama Nikkokan
ith your pass into the Takayama Yatai Kaikan you will also be granted free entry into the Sakurayama Nikkokan next door.
The Sakurayama Nikkokan features a dazzling, highly detailed recreation of the Toshogu Shrine in Nikko built at 1/10th of the scale, as well as other models of famous religious buildings throughout Japan. All the intricate detailing in the ornaments, carving, and paintings have been replicated precariously by famed
carpenters from the Taisho Era and took 15 years to complete.
Though it may seem a bit strange to see a famous cultural site from Nikko being displayed in a totally different prefecture, the craftsmanship of these models and the yatai next door showcases the impressive handiwork of Takayama’s famous artisans. Also to note, the woodwork and the techniques in weaving and dyeing that go into constructing the yatai is so exquisite that it is often compared to the Yomeimon Gate of Nikko’s Toshogu Shrine – one of the most beautiful gates in Japan.
Nikko Toshogu Shrine’s Yomeimon Gate
Hida Folk Village
he Hida Folk Village is an open-air museum built along a picturesque hillside featuring thatched wooden houses, shrines, and other historical representations of what Hida Province looked like in the past.
The thatched-roofed houses called “gassho-zukuri farmhouses” date back during the Edo era (1603 – 1867) and have been kept in their original conditions. They were moved to the Hida Folk Village from Shirakawago, an area famous for their gassho-zukuri farmhouses and have received World Heritage status.
You can see many folk artifacts on display showcasing life in the past mountain farming village and demonstrations of local crafts like Hida lacquer, weaving, and dyeing. You can also participate in traditional craft-making such as sashiko quilting and straw craft at the cultural centres.
For those who are unable to visit the World Heritage Site Shirakawago, the Hida Folk Village is a good alternative to still experience the golden days of Edo period farm life.
akayama’s morning market is made up of two local markets; one in front of the Takayama Jinya Shrine and the other along the Miyagawa River. It is said to be one of the biggest morning markets in Japan and a great place for locals and tourists to interact. Shops sell everything from fresh vegetables, dried fruit, spices, Japanese sweets, crafts, and local souvenirs.
The Takayama Jinya Shrine market has a particularly interesting background. Started more than 300 years ago it began with silk farmers selling mulberry tree leaves. To this day, farmers are the only ones permitted to open stalls here. The markets are opened daily and it is best to visit around 6AM to soak up the energetic atmosphere of the stalls being set up for the day.
or all lovers of Japanese pop culture, the pop art aesthetics that became mainstream during the Showa period (1926 – 1989) are memorialized through some of the period’s most iconic symbols such as comic book characters like Astro Boy, early idols and propaganda memorabilia.
The Takayama Showa-kan Museum leaves visitors with the perfect impression of what makes this retro style so unique; the fusion of Japanese aesthetics with
American influences.
From the vintage candy and toy store at the front to the perfect recreation of the 1950’s retro streets at the back, the Takayama Showa-kan Museum allows you to enjoy the nostalgia of postwar Japan as you explore through their highly decorated rooms.
The rooms depict different settings inspired by the year 1955 including the street front alley, movie theatre, barbershop, video game corner, general store, and more!
f you are lucky enough to witness the Takayama Festival, you may have seen puppet performances on top of the giant yatai floats parading through the streets.
These puppets are called karakuri puppets – mechanised moving marionettes with gears, levers, and strings – that emerged during the Sengoku Period after the introduction of European clock-making to Japan.
These puppets are used in puppetry performances doing tricks or retelling folk stories as a form of entertainment, especially during the height of its popularity during the Edo Era. The concealment of any gears and mechanics as well as the
puppeteer hidden behind stage platforms gives the impression that these puppets are moving by themselves.
Luckily, you don’t have to wait for the next Takayama Festival to see these puppets in action as the Karakuri Museum holds performances every 30 minutes. Seeing them perform and understanding their craftsmanship is impressive considering this is a time before the modern inventions of robots and AI.
The museum also showcases an impressive collection of over 200 lion dance masks called “shishimai” from all over Japan.
rom restaurant establishments with long culinary histories to humble street food fanfare, Takayama’s local food scene gives you the best of what the mountain region has to offer.
eing located in the mountains producing clean spring water and high altitudes of fertile soil, Takayama is home to some of the freshest fruit and vegetables including mountain vegetables called “sansai,” root vegetables, peaches, apples, and melons.
Tomatoes and spinach are also the most popular vegetables grown in this region. The tomatoes are said to be incredibly sweet and the local spinach has no bitter taste.
popular dish in Takayama is Wasakana or river fish marinated in sweet soy sauce or salted and grilled.
You can eat it as a side dish with rice or a topping in your noodle soup and these river fish are usually of two kinds of river trout, Ayu and Iwana.
Pickled Vegetables
eing plentiful with vegetables, Takayama has many varieties of pickled vegetables.
The local specialty is pickled red turnips called “Aka kabu zuke” and
are crunchy in texture with a slightly sour-salty taste. This iconic purplish-red turnip is mainly grown in the Takayama area and is called “Hida beni kabu.”
he people of Takayama did not only use the plants found in the mountain forests for solely woodwork but also infused this with their local cuisine as well.
The Japanese magnolia tree grows abundantly in the mountainous areas of the Gifu prefecture and is not widely found throughout Japan. Collected in the autumn it has a delicate fragrance and is used in cooking as a layer for flavour when grilling meat or wrapped around mochi and sushi.
Hida Beef on top of a Houba Leaf
Local Sake
akayama’s location in the Japan Alps makes it ideal for sake production and at its peak as a castle town, there were more than 60 sake breweries in Takayama.
The rice produced in Takayama is called “Hida-Homare” rice and is said to have the
five taste elements of sweetness, spiciness, sourness, astringency, and bitterness.
Today, only 7 sake breweries still remain in the old town district and are hundreds of years old.
However, the most famous event and one of the country’s most beloved festivals is the Takayama Festival.
Takayama Festival
he Takayama Festival is held twice a year to celebrate spring and autumn and is ranked as one of Japan’s three most beautiful festivals making it on UNESCO’s Intangible Heritage List.
During each festival, the giant yatai floats are pulled through the streets and you can see Karakuri puppet doll performances and a Mikoshi Procession. It is said the
mikoshi shrine carriage contains the celebrated shrine’s deity and only leaves the shrine for the festival. There is also an evening festival for night festivities.
Seeing the festival floats during the lavish parade is a truly spectacular sight and each yatai float displays the wealth and skills of the area it comes from in the Takayama area.
Spring Takayama Festival
he spring festival is held in the southern part of Takyama’s Old Township on April 14 – 15.
It is sometimes called Sanno Festival as it is celebrated around the
Hie Shrine also known as “Sanno-sama.” The shrine is dedicated to family safety.
The spring festival is to pray for a good harvest and the coming of spring.
he autumn festival is celebrated at the northern end of Takayama’s Old Township on October 9-10 and is also known by another name, Hachiman Festival, as it is celebrated around Hachiman Shrine.
The shrine’s god, Hachiman, is the divinity of archery and war but is also worshiped
for good agriculture and fishing.
The autumn festival is celebrated as an extravagant way to show thanks for the year’s harvest.
or an affordable and comfortable stay in Takayama, we recommend K’s House Takayama.
It is a hostel-style accommodation with simple furnishings in the rooms and amenities such as laundry service, shared kitchenette, and bike rental available.
What surprised us was the very comfy furnishings in the common room areas styled
in a traditional Japanese aesthetic that you can enjoy during your stay.
It’s a great place to stay whether you are the kind of traveller who wants the freedom to do things at your own pace, or get friendly with the locals and chat with the friendly hotel staff and other fellow travellers.
Take the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Toyama and then at Toyama Station take the JR Hida limited express train to Takayama.
The journey from Tokyo to Toyama by bullet train will take 4-5 hours and costs ¥15,500 one way. From Toyama to Takayama it will take a further 1 hour and 40 minutes and costs ¥3,420.
By Bullet Train from Tokyo via Nagoya
Take the JR Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagoya Station and transfer to the JR Hida limited express train to Takayama.
The bullet train ride takes 1 hour and 40 minutes and costs ¥11,090 and the limited express train will take 2 and a half hours and costs ¥6,140.
By Highway Bus from Tokyo
From Shinjuku’s largest bus terminal called “Busta Shinjuku” take the highway bus operated by Keio and Nohi Bus directly to Hida-Takayama.
If you take a plane, you have the option of two airports:
Via Toyama airport
You will need to start at Toyama Airport and take a Toyama Airport limousine bus to Toyama Eki Mae. From Toyama Eki Mae bus stop, walk to Toyama Station and take the JR Hida limited express train to Takayama.
The whole bus and train journey will take roughly 2 hours and 40 minutes and costs roughly ¥4,000.
Via Matsumoto airport
You will need to start at Matsumoto Airport and take the Matsumoto Airport limousine bus to Matsumoto Bus Terminal.
From Matsumoto Bus Terminal bus stop you will need to take an express highway bus to Takayama Nohi Bus Center run by ALPICO GROUP. You can book online the express bus from Matsumoto to Takayama in English, too.
By car
You can easily drive from Tokyo to Takayama which will take 4.5 – 5 hours or you can hire a car at Toyama Airport like we did and it will only take 1 hour and 40 minutes. We rented our car via Nippon Rental.
You’ve heard of wagyu, the marble textured wonder beef from Japan praised for its buttery soft texture that melts in your mouth, but what about hida beef?
Hailing only from the Gifu prefecture, this prime breed of cattle is super tender with mesh-like marbling that gives hida beef its juiciness. Many also say that the sparkling clean spring water of Gifu also gives hida beef its distinct flavour.
For food lovers wanting a taste of real hida, many head to Gifu prefecture’s Takayama – the home of hida beef. However, don’t just choose any steakhouse in Takayama to try this delicacy. To appreciate this fine cut of steak, what better place to dine than at the place many heil is the best hida beef restaurant in town – Hidatakayama Kyoya.
SETTING AND ATMOSPHERE
he Hidatakayama Kyoya restaurant is a restored Japanese country house located within the historical Old Town district of Takayama. As a real treat, diners can enjoy eating within the walls of a traditional mid-19th century home with exposed ceiling beams, tatami flooring, and wooden lattice partitions. What a way to create an inviting nostalgic ambiance!
The house is described as being from Echigo, an old northern province before its neighbouring prefectures and districts merged to form modern-day Niigata Prefecture in 1876. The house was specifically relocated to its new home in
Takayama and diners can enjoy the experience of being seated around a traditional irori (Japanese hearth). As you look around, the interior is fitted with old trinkets and traditional folk art pieces adding to the character of the place.
Seeing the busy staff shuffle past with platters of beef while we sat among the antique furnishing and smokey air made us feel right at home. For a truly memorable dining experience, we highly recommend sitting on the tatami flooring for the best seat in the house and to fully enjoy the pleasure of grilling your meat the old fashioned way.
fter reading multiple food reviews of people highly praising Hidatakayama Kyoya’s hida beef dishes we are glad to say, we understand what all the fuss is about!
At Takayama, the region’s food specialty is houba miso – hida beef with miso, green onions, and shiitake mushrooms grilled on a magnolia leaf (houba).
As the dish slowly cooks on your own personal grill, the scent of the miso and magnolia leaf creates a mouthwatering smell as you wait for your beef to be ready. The hida beef was incredibly tender and had a tasty steak flavour that perfectly
matched the saltiness of the miso. The set meal also included a small side dish of tofu, potatoes, and simmered mountain vegetables which were seasoned lightly. It was a great palate refresher creating a nice delicate flavour paired in contrast with the meat’s rich taste.
Did someone say “slip a shrimp on the barbie”? As the true Australians we are, Talyssa and I decided to upgrade our meal by ordering a side of prawns to grill and they were a delicious accompaniment to our barbeque meal. Sweet and meaty, it was a shame we didn’t have two stomachs to order another plate!
Our Hida beef on houba miso
Side dish of tofu, potatoes, and simmered mountain vegetables
Hida Beef on Houba Miso Set Meal (¥2000)
Prawns (¥1400)
Service
he overall service at Hidatakayama Kyoya was very prompt, efficient, and timely especially considering how busy the place was.
When we did our research, visitors seemed very impressed by the modest down-to-earth hospitality and their interactions with the “okami-san.”
An okami-san is the name given to a female manager or owner of a traditional Japanese style establishment like a ryokan who is at the center of guest relations. At Hidatakayama Kyoya, their role is to greet guests, explain and demonstrate how to cook certain dishes, ask how the patrons enjoyed their meals and go the extra mile to provide information about Takayama’s must-see tourist spots for visitors.
Unfortunately, we noticed that the general staff who served us weren’t as “homey” in their reception and hospitality on the night we visited and it’s a shame that we didn’t get to experience a true “okami-style” service for ourselves.
Keep in mind, this restaurant closes super early! We arrived at around 8pm and the last order for food was at 8:30pm with closing time at 9pm, so that could be why the staff rushed us to be seated and to order.
If you want to have a more relaxed time, it would be best to arrive during lunch or at an earlier dinner time.
Value for Money
s Hidatakayama Kyoya serves premium quality hida beef, the prices for the meat dishes are generally on the pricier side however still on par with prices found at other yakiniku restaurants. You can still enjoy a hida beef meal affordably by ordering the “Hida Beef on Houba
Miso Set Meal” at 2000 yen, which is the restaurant’s most popular menu item.
Considering the quality of the food and the unique dining experience offered at Hidatakayama Kyoya, splurging on a meal here is definitely worth it.
alk the path of wandering traders, warlords, samurai, and geisha and journey between the old capitals of Ancient Japan.
Although much of the ancient roads that connect the old capital of Kyoto to the new capital of Edo (modern-day Tokyo) have been buried or long forgotten to the winds of time, there are parts of these ancient routes still untouched for the modern traveler of today.
Magome Juku in the Kiso Valley area of Gifu Prefecture is a well-preserved little town and arguably the most scenic. It is the forty-third post town of sixty-nine towns used by weary travelers to rest, find entertainment, and gather supplies while making the long journey through the Nakasendo trail. To this day, these historic post towns still evoke memories of the Edo period.
Sounds like a fascinating place to get a taste of old Japan, right?
Take a look back at this interesting time in Japan’s feudal history as we share the local gems this rural village has to offer.
WHAT TO SEE
s a point of interest, there are many tourist spots in Magome Juku that are dedicated or related to the famous author, Shimazaki Toson, including the Shimizu-ya Museum, the Eishoji Temple and the Toson Memorial Museum.
Born in 1872, the town is in fact, the birthplace of the late novelist who wrote about the effects of the Meiji Restoration in the Kiso Valley in his famous novel, “Before the Dawn.” With Magome Juku still being relatively off-the-grid, English signage around the town is minimal. As a result, its historical significance is not the sole reason people come here from far and wide.
For many, and certainly for us, it was the views of the beautiful old fashioned
waterwheels and idyllic wooden architecture signature to Magome Juku, that enticed us to experience the old-world atmosphere of this charming picturesque town for ourselves.
Although many original structures were destroyed by fires in Magome Juku, the traditional lattice-facade houses that surround both sides of the main pathway were restored in the 1970s when the city officially closed the path to traffic. Thay also removed visible signs of modern times such as electricity lines to retain the nostalgic feeling of pre-modern Japan. Most of the houses are now converted into modern eateries, lodging inns, or souvenir shops for visitors, however they still create a good impression of the hustle and bustle of life centuries past. With the surrounding nature changing seasonally, plenty of photo opportunities are abound!
Shimizu-ya Museum
Masugata Waterwheel
ight as you make your way up the pathway towards the main part of town, you’ll be greeted by the first signature sight of Magome Juku called the “Masugata Waterwheel.”
What makes this waterwheel important?
First of all, a masugata is a defensive wall structure carved into the landscape consisting of a double, right-angle turn. It acts as a stone fence-like paling to give
defenders an advantage from incoming intruders and was a common feature of castle towns and post towns along the Nakasendo trail. Today, the masugata leaves a striking impression as you view the giant waterwheel from the front.
The giant waterwheel has become an iconic symbol of the town and was originally an old rice flour mill but today produces hydro-electricity for the town. There are a number of miniature waterwheels that decorate the townscape to discover as well.
The waterwheel on the left and the masugata on the right
Inside the waiting room near the Matsugata Waterwheel
You can get a special Magome Juku stamp at the Magome Tourist Information Center
Magome Waki-honjin Museum
“waki-honjin” is a style of inn during the Edo period reserved for government officials, noble families, and high standing samurais. Today, these inns are preserved as open museums displaying large collections of historical artifacts from 200-year-old documents to Edo period garments designed for Emperor Meiji himself when he ventured along the historic trail in its prime.
The Magome Waki-honjin Museum has a nice display of Edo Period documents, clothes, paintings, and furniture where you can learn about the history and culture of the time. It also gives a good impression of how different life was for a high-
ranking official compared to the common man.
If you have time to spare and plan to head towards the next post town Tsumago Juku, we recommend checking out their waki-honjin museum too.
Compared to the Magome Waki-Honjin Museum, the Wakihonjin Okuya in Tsumago is definitely the most aesthetically impressive of the two, due to the magical way the afternoon light spills through the shutters above the living area’s irori (Japanese hearth). If you want to capture the best lighting for photos, it is best to visit between September and March on sunny days.
s you make your way further up the hill you will find a replica of the “kosatsuba” notice board that outlines the law for visitors during the ruling “Tokugawa Shogunate” feudal system of the time. Among the interesting rules posted were prohibitions against Christianity, rewards for incarcerating practicing Christians, and a death penalty for persons
caught cutting down any of the area’s cypress trees!
The final stop at the top of the hill is the observatory lookout point where you can get a great panoramic view of the town below and see Mount Ena and the Mino Valley in the distance.
hile walking past the many shops on your way to the top of Magome Juku, you’ll encounter the scent of deliciously roasted chestnuts wafting from the food shop windows. It’s super hard to resist!
In fact, one of the must-try dishes of Magome Juku is made with chestnuts called “Kuri Kowameshi.” It’s roasted chestnuts and glutinous rice cooked and served in a
hot stove.
Another chestnut treat to try is a dessert called “kuri-kinton” which is a specialty of the Gifu Prefecture. It’s a small cookie dough-like sweet that is made from boiled, mashed chestnuts. If you do want to savour these local specialties for yourself it is best to visit during the autumn time when chestnuts are in season.
he 恩多屋 is a small eatery opposite the Shimizu-ya Museum that specializes in serving chestnut fed pork dishes and Kuri Kowameshi set meals.
Inside the cafe has free wifi and charging dock stations at every table for your phone. At the front, they also have traditional street food that you can order to-go.
Soba
eeing as soba is the famous local dish of the nearby Nagano Prefecture and the tradition of eating soba was popularised during the Edo Period, Magome Juku naturally has many soba restaurants where you can feast on the well known Japanese dish.
If you are looking for interesting toppings to go with your soba, try the mountain vegetables (山菜そば) or if you want a challenge try the slightly slimy but delicious grated mountain yam (山かけそば) for a more authentic rustic meal.
hese stuffed dumplings originating from Nagano Prefecture are made with seasonal vegetables, sweet bean, or pickle fillings and grilled so the dough is nice and chewy
upon consuming. The local “kozawana” pickle filled oyaki is a must-try if you enjoy salty-tangy flavours.
WHERE TO EAT OYAKI: 道中おやき
f you want to try all the different flavours of oyaki, head to 道中おやき where they sell both salty and sweet types of oyaki fillings as well as juicy homemade meat buns (nikuman) too.
The top sellers are the “kozawana” pickle, Japanese mugwort (yomogi) with red
bean and pumpkin oyaki kind.
You can order to-go, sit inside the shop and enjoy the tea and pickle service or sit outside on the bench and enjoy the atmosphere of the old town while you enjoy eating.
Mochi and Dango
ne of the most iconic street foods of Japan, mochi and dango are small sticky rice balls eaten as a snack or dessert commonly served at small gatherings over tea.
Although both are smooth in texture, look very similar, and taste very simple, there is a key difference in how they are made. Mochi is made from pounded glutinous rice and served by itself, while dango is made from rice flour served on a stick and coated in a sauce.
Although Magome Juku is in the Gifu Prefecture, their style of mochi follows the style from Nagano. The texture is grainier and the mochi is served as 3 spheres stacked on top one another on a skewer.
A signature local dish of the area and specialty to the region is “Goheimochi” which is served with a walnut miso paste.
hough originally a 100-year-old corridor making business, the interior of 四方木屋 has been transformed into a classic Japanese style cafe where customers can enjoy the traditional taste of Japanese treats while chatting over some tea.
As many shops along the Nakasendo trail served as a casual rest stop for travellers, we felt just like the old wandering traders who would have stopped to rest their tired
feet at a roadside teahouse just like this one.
The cafe does well to keep the Edo-aesthetic inside by offering both modern table seating and traditional floor seating options so people can enjoy casually resting and chatting just like many would have done in the old days. Sitting on the tatami floor filled with cozy antique furniture and wooden cutout lanterns inspired our imaginings of times gone by!
Zenzai with Shiratama Dango
Matcha Cappuccino
Table Seating Area
Tatami Seating Area
WHAT TO DO
SUMMER: Magome Juku Somen Night Festival
ave you heard of nagashi somen before?
An entertaining way to eat this classic summer food, nagashi somen is the fun of catching icy cold flowing somen noodles that run though a hollowed-out bamboo flume before it gets carried away.
During August at night time, Magome Juku sets up an impressive 100-meter long bamboo slide where people can dine and slurp on these refreshing noodles.
xperience a Kabuki show within the traditional setting of old Magome Juku.
Organised by the Ji-Kabuki Preservation Society this special performance includes highlights from popular Kabuki shows. The actors will also
teach you how to participate in traditional Kabuki viewing practices such as Ohineri (throwing tips on the stage) and Omukou (audience call). Participants also get to take a commemorative photo with the Kabuki actors and on certain days, a Kabuki “kumadori” makeup workshop is held where you can transform into a Kabuki actor yourself!
t the end of the Edo period, in the first year of the Bunkyu period, Emperor Takaaki’s younger sister, Kazumiya, from Kyoto’s Imperial Court was married to the Shogunate of Edo-Tokyo, Tokugawa Iemori.
In the autumn of 1945, the Princess traveled along theNakasendo trail from Kyoto to Edo-Tokyo to be wed and the journey was celebrated as the biggest event in the
history of Nakasendo.
Today, many post towns along the Nakasendo recreate Princess Kazumiya’s epic wedding procession with local residents playing the roles of Princess Kazumiya and her entourage.
njoy a romantic walk during the evenings of mid to late November as shop lanterns are set up through the Magome Juku main street. As twilight hits, the lanterns are lit up creating a nostalgic atmosphere.
At the same time, Shimada Park just off from the main area has an illumination show to highlight the season’s autumn leaves at night.
hen the temperature drops in the Kiso Valley, just like a scene from a movie set the Nakasendo trail is lit up with the soft light of “ice candles” connecting the post towns.
As an extra sweet incentive for bearing the freezing cold, the Furusato no Ie inn
(found 80m above the Fujimura Memorial Hall) serves handmade warm pork soup and amazake during the festivities, made by the local ladies. For photo enthusiasts, the Kiso Tourism Federation also runs a photo contest during the festival.
eyond Magome Juku, many seek to complete their Edo style experience with a hike just like the old days and trek towards other post towns along the original old Nakasendo route.
From Magome, the journey to the next post town, Tsumago Juku, is an easy 7.8-kilometer walk passing through a variety of scenic Japanese landscapes from dense bamboo forests to towering cypress tree groves. The journey takes around two to three hours to complete.
Tsumago Juku is considered generally more authentic and traditional feeling than Magome Juku as it was less prone to fires and the townspeople have gone to great lengths to preserve the original building and house structures from the period.
If you wish to continue past Tsumago Juku, the next town, Nagiso, is another 3.2 kilometers and is listed as “One of The Most Beautiful Villages in Japan.” Although Nagiso isn’t as well-known as Magome Juku or Tsumago Juku, it offers onsens and scenic sites such as the Kiso River flowing through the center of the town, Kiso Village’s hidden gem the Kakizore Keikoku Valley and the Tadachi-no-taki waterfall. Nagiso is also the home for a special type of kabuki performance called ‘Tadachi Kabuki’ which has a distinct ancient style different from the popularized central school of Kabuki from Tokyo.
With plenty of English signage, well-maintained paths and various waterfalls, shrines, and waterwheels in the forest to keep you entertained, taking your time wandering the old Nakasendo road makes for a memorable trekking experience.
An important note when following Google Maps to walk the old Nakasendo trail: Google will only give you directions using the main new route rather than the traditional road. However, if you look closely on the map you can see the old path to follow labeled “Old Nakasendo.” Alternatively, you can ask the staff for a Nakasendo walking map at the Magome Tourist Information Center.
WHERE TO STAY
f you are looking for an affordable and stylish stay, we stayed at the Guest House Gaku Magome.
Although this accommodation is dormitory-style, we were pleasantly surprised by how chic the place was. The guest house is part of the Magomefurusato School and offers a unique housing experience with the interior being a mixture of a
typical Japanese school and a modern wooden cabin in the woods.
Every person got their own stylish wooden bedding cubicle which was surprisingly very private and comfortable. With your stay, the guest house also provides free breakfast, and best of all, Magome Juku is just a 7-minute walk away!
Whether you are coming from Tokyo Station or Kyoto Station, the most convenient way to get to Magome Juku is to head to Nagoya city and transfer from there.
Using the train at JR Nagoya Station in Nagoya City, you can either hop on the Shinano Express or take the Rapid train service on the JR Chuo Main Line to JR Nakatsugawa Station.
From Nakatsugawa Station, you will need to take the Magome Line Bus and get off at the stop “Magome” to arrive at Magome Juku. The total travel time to Magome Juku from Nagoya City takes a little over 2 hours in total.
ARRIVING BY BUS ONLY
Alternatively, if you wish to skip the hassle of transferring at multiple stations and take a direct bus, you can take the “Nagoya Line” highway express bus at Meitetsu Bus Center in Nagoya City and go directly to Magome. The total journey will take less than 2 hours but unfortunately, the highway bus website to reserve tickets is mostly in Japanese.
ARRIVING BY CAR
We took a rental car to Magome Juku and found the best parking was near the Magomekan Honkan souvenir store which offers free all-day parking. It is best to arrive early as parking spaces are limited and quickly filled.
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